MMMM twizzlers.

Number 5 tapers .0005 all others have no taper wether from main to main or within each main.

Not that I am watching this post and PMing behind everyones backs or anything!

Haha...HB57 has been helpin me out with this build.

Josh, we only got the one measurement after the line bore. Before the line bore we got many different measurements...then figired out I needed the line bore....maybe I can coax hime over with in n out and diet dr pepper to measure it for me again....ill throw in a pack of twizzlers too ronnie.

clearance issues is always a fun topic! Brad if your half asleep it might be time to either take a nap, or hit the pipe lol! Measure, Measure, Measure!

Brad, in the interest of saving you time, I will sell you the blower motor. $3k short $6k long, $9k hook up fuel line and wires and go. I need yours as a core. 8-71 dominators............ Credit card via PayPal do it as a gift.

Brad, in the interest of saving you time, I will sell you the blower motor. $3k short $6k long, $9k hook up fuel line and wires and go. I need yours as a core. 8-71 dominators............ Credit card via PayPal do it as a gift.

DO IT, DO IT

Well, you're quick to jump to conclusions there buddy. Why do you assume its junk and the shop fubar'd it up? I know you are bitter about machine shops, but reserve your emotions here. I'm not fond of throwing this block in the trash either as you suggested.

Because they moved the crank without moving the stuff that references off the crank.  I'm not assuming the shop fubar'd it up, you told me they fubar'd it up with your measurements...this stands as a fact.  The question still remains though...how bad they fubar'd it up. 

The correct order of operation for block machine work is:

1: main bores...becuase all other operations reference from this.

2: everything else.

You can't do everything else, then do the crank.  If one were to draw an imaginary line down the center of the cylinder bore, it should intersect the exact centerline of the mains.  This is how it was done at the factory.  When you leave the cylinders alone and remachine the main bores, you're moving the crank up in the block, so now our cylinder centerline intersects below the main centerline.   This is what your block looks like now...and the decks aren't square to the mains either, which doesn't really matter in this case.

This is why you need to measure where the crank is now in relation to where it should be....to see how far they cut into the block when they did the mains.  You need this information for several reasons...first one being....see if you can get a timing chain that's short enough to fit without an inch of slop in it, and secondly...to see how far you are away from square.  I would probably allow a few thousandths, but not much more unless the bores and deck were remachined to square everything back up. 

This will also change your compression ratio somewhat, because now the pistons be higher in the cylinder at TDC...it may be a problem, it may not...but we won't know without measuring it.

I have no problem with machine shops.  I have a problem with machinists who don't "get it", and do work like this without thinking twice about it.  Its hard work to do things right....people don't like to work hard.

Don't you all have jobs??? What are you doing playing on the computer at work? Brad is the only one that isn't logged in!! HAH

Get some rest Bud!    I had to re read all this 3 times to wrap my head around it.

Pat is correct, I would be double checking to ensure the main bores are square fore and aft of the cam bores, and not tapered, etc. Other than that, assuming all is well there, the crank is .027 under, the bearings are expecting a .030 under crank and you still have clearance. I fail to see where the bearings could possibly be too thin to scotchbrite the backsides and taylor fit each one to the clearance you're after......

Ray

STD crank main journals should measure 2.7489-2.7490, which would make a .030" under crank measure 2.7189-2.7190.

The Main bores, without the bearings installed should measure 2.937-2.938

crank centerline to cam centerline should be 5.150"...   ... Measure the cam bearing bore and the front main bore, add 'em together and divide by two, then measure the short distance with some calipers between the main and cam bearings.  Add these numbers together and you'll have the centerline distance.  How does that compare to the blueprint spec of 5.150.

If you want to have even more fun, do this same thing at the back of the block (you'll have to knock out the steel freeze plug behind the cam) to compare your front to rear numbers to see if the cam is parallel to the crank.

Once you've got this centerline distance, then you can start looking for a shorter timing chain that will work for ya.

the .027 number was an assumption off my backwards logic. so lets please disregard that number from here on out.

OK, whats the number then

im thinking .033 

OK, whats the number then

I gotta bribe HomeBlown57 to come back over with his micrometer and measure my parts.



.....someone better run with that one.