looking at this for the new cam.. Gonna run the heads i have do not want to drop another 2K 
.645
.248
.254
110 degree LC
I wonder what this is going to give me?
You have a bit of a dilemma here. Your heads are a bit of a bottle-neck but you should be able to get more power from the engine with a few changes.
Although the above camshaft grind is better suited for your engine than the one that is currently in it, I feel that you might be asking too much of the hydraulic roller setup by stepping up to that grind. What I mean is....if you want a bigger cam (which I
do think your engine needs), then you need to also consider solid roller lifters to go with that bigger camshaft. Hydraulic rollers need to have lighter springs (such as your 135 seat/335 open spring pressures) because with bigger/stiffer valve springs the hydraulic lifter plungers would get mashed as the lifters bleed down while the engine is idling -- clatter-clatter. Conversely, a .645" roller cam with solid lifters will wreak havok on those little springs that are currently in your engine. Therefore, if you want significantly more camshaft you really need to consider bigger springs and solid lifters as well. So, new cam, roller lifters and springs + ~$1000. The question is, do you want to spend $1000 for
perhaps 100 hp?
Additionally, as you go bigger and bigger at the camshaft there will be an increasing diminishing return due to the limitations of the heads, so you will also have to come to terms with the fact that getting the max hp numbers you were originally targeting may not be in the cards...or may not be worth the added expense and effort to make it happen. Further, due to the presumed I/E flow ratio of your cylinder heads, you would be well advised to get a custom ground roller with a
big split that is not normally found in the shelf grinds.
The alternate "Plan B" camshaft profile that you suggested above is very similar to a CompCams XR286R. Yes, I could see the XR286R making a substantial difference in a 2x4 tunnel rammed, aluminum-headed 514, but the ProComp heads will likely "come up short" for supporting the rest of the engine combination. By that I mean that your 514 will want to produce peak power at an rpm range that will be
hindered by the heads, not necessarily the camshaft anymore.
One alternative way to circumvent the exorbitant price of the roller cam swap is to consider a solid flat tappet cam such as the Lunati # 416A3LUN
Lift = .637"/.630"
Dur @ 0.050" = 247*/256*
LSA = 106*
or Lunati # 416A4LUN
Lift = 0.633"/0.636"
Dur @ 0.050" = 252*/259*
LSA = 108*
Please note that lobe profiles are quite different between flat tappet and roller cams, and so while in this case the "hp gained vs. dollars spent" is a better ratio with the solid flat tappet camshaft I doubt you'd clear 600 hp....but I imagine you'd certainly be happer with the engine in the boat and might find that it performs acceptably. Unfortuately I'm not certain which of these two Lunati cams might be better suited for the Procomp heads due to the narrow "combination window" that they create under the circumstances.
Good luck,
LO
