SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: connorstexas on May 13, 2016, 03:55:11 PM
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what's your guys's opinion on running half open ball valve vs pressure relief valve? I just need ideas
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Dont get Glenn started on this. The poor horse is way dead. Ill find the recent link
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http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=27159.0
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Dont get Glenn started on this. The poor horse is way dead. Ill find the recent link
Ditch the ball valve
Use a gate valve
No need to complicate things with a regulator set-up
Dan'l
and this, lol :banghead:
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=27159.0 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=27159.0)
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I run the pressure relief deal . Works perfectly 17psi. My first boat didn't have one and it broke the intake gasket and had water in the oil on my first trip July 4th.
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Local well known shop in Upland told me not to run a PRV. He said ball valve (the one with the lever) wide open was fine for my set up. Mercruiser center-rise aluminum manifolds. He said that there wasnt enough restriction in the system to create high pressure, so no need to worry. Never had a blown gasket. Just my experience.
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I won't go nuts here.
I have always run a 3/4" gate valve. Red and a White makes a nice one, as does Nibco.
If your system is even close, those ridiculous relief systems aren't needed. At all.
If you did your due diligence it will never open anyway.
GT
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I use the Hi-Tech bypass kit but without the gate valve. Works well but I am curious if running a gate valve wouldn't be a little more insurance.
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I won't go nuts here.
I have always run a 3/4" gate valve. Red and a White makes a nice one, as does Nibco.
If your system is even close, those ridiculous relief systems aren't needed. At all.
If you did your due diligence it will never open anyway.
GT
spoken like a true plumber lol, it kills me to use a gate valve (18 years of plumbing experience) but I make an exception for the boat. I run a nibco wide open with the Rex thermostat deal.
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I'm going to side with GT on this one, and the other guys running without a PVR setup. I have been the one beating the dead horse on this topic. From all of the info I have collected on this topic, including a plumber that I have pestered way too much, that a gate valve early in the system and a pressure gauge are your best bet. More control, and the gauge makes it easy to set your pressure. On the side note, it is a third of the price of a PVR, and easy to replace as plumbing shops carry all of the parts you need.
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I'm going to side with GT on this one
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Let me know how hell goes for ya. Lol
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thanks guys. huge help
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Let me know how hell goes for ya. Lol
It goes like this:
I won't go nuts here.
I have always run a 3/4" gate valve. Red and a White makes a nice one, as does Nibco.
If your system is even close, those ridiculous relief systems aren't needed. At all.
If you did your due diligence it will never open anyway.
GT
On what you say?
this-
1973 Glenco, 19', 454,...Wet headers...Gate valve
1974 Miller, 19' SJ, 383 sbc, Wet headers...Gate valve
1975 Saguaro 19', 350 sbc, Wet Headers...Gate valve
1976 Eliminator, 21' Day Cruiser, 454, logs and snails...Gate valve
1977 Double Eagle 20', River cruiser, 350 sbc, logs and snails, Gate valve
I boat in water that's from 55* to 88*, and never worry about engine temp.
I think I'm beyond trial and error.
(I've also removed 2 broken Olds and 3 broken Fords, just sayin')
Dan'l
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