SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: boatsnores on September 03, 2014, 10:16:31 PM
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Bought my 77 sanger a few weeks ago have had it out 4 or 5 times second to last time I had it out I bought new valve covers and noticed there was a little milkshake in the corners of the heads. The Oil still looked good. So I cleaned it alll up slapped the new covers on and figured it was just some condensation. This last week I was out all weekend runnin my boat with ckaz and his tahiti and we were runnin em really hard. Had a great weekend. Came home checked my oil and its getting pretty greyish and there was slop in my breathers. Was thinking about stuff and rememberd the guy I bought it from always ran it with the water valve all the way open. Boat has wet stacks and Bassett t valve. No t stat. Has a water valve on the onlet and a water valve on tge outlet hose aswell. This has got to be way to much pressure for the engine. I know some guys run a pressure relief valve. And some guys run a 2nd dump hose to lower block pressures. The boat never gets hot cruise 100 115 idle 135 145 degrees. What is the best way to plumb and regulate these things? I know it might be a touchy topic. Not looking to do a t stat. I need a better way to regulate block pressure here.
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Might be something else bro like your your mani gasket or head gasket...my 460 idles at around 160 and cruising dropps below 100 that's at the river cooler water and no milk shake I have the same plumbing as you. Try closing the pump inlet valve till she idles at around 160.
"Stupid move...shouldn't have done that"
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Yeah I have herd of guys having issues with the bbc intakes leaking. I guess it could be a head gasket aswell but with the milkshake it has I would think it would be smoking a bunch out the pipes. Im going to rip and reseal the intake and clean and do a oil change this weekend and see what happens. Thanks for the ideas. I will mess with the idle temp too with the water valve also.
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Bought my 77 sanger a few weeks ago have had it out 4 or 5 times second to last time I had it out I bought new valve covers and noticed there was a little milkshake in the corners of the heads.
Pretty normal "sweaty snot" if you will... Cold oil temperatures and the chimney effect cause the condensation to collect in the valve covers.
The Oil still looked good. So I cleaned it alll up slapped the new covers on and figured it was just some condensation.
With you....
This last week I was out all weekend runnin my boat with ckaz and his tahiti and we were runnin em really hard. Had a great weekend. Came home checked my oil and its getting pretty greyish and there was slop in my breathers.
Still with ya...
Was thinking about stuff and rememberd the guy I bought it from always ran it with the water valve all the way open. Boat has wet stacks and Bassett t valve. No t stat. Has a water valve on the onlet and a water valve on tge outlet hose aswell.
You just lost me, there is absolutely no reason to have a valve on the outlet....... Throw it away.
This has got to be way to much pressure for the engine. I know some guys run a pressure relief valve. And some guys run a 2nd dump hose to lower block pressures. The boat never gets hot cruise 100 115 idle 135 145 degrees.
If it were mine, I would throttle the inlet until it idles at around 150°F to 160°F. It will allow the oil to heat up and run warmer at WOT. The only issue may be that the headers may come in "too early".
What is the best way to plumb and regulate these things? I know it might be a touchy topic. Not looking to do a t stat. I need a better way to regulate block pressure here.
No, you really don't... The setup sounds close. Lose the outlet valve, there is no reason for it to be there. I have posted here before a formula you can use to calculate outlet size based on HP, you should be somewhere between 3/8" to 5/8" outlet (not hose size, actual outlet orifice size).
I really don't think you need the regulator/pressure relief/anti-scald/flushometer thing, but it wont hurt anything. If it is set up right, they simply cannot over-pressurize.
Just my humble opinion.
GT
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Holy effin chite. Clunk
I just fell over from my chair.
Gt suggested a relief.
Seriously though it works well as piece of having one as another tool to keep from over-pressuring
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BTW... the t-stat is for temp control NOT PRESSURE.
Two seperate subjects and exactly why I hate to see someone overpressure the block when they dont know how to adjust the inlet gate correctly.
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Holy effin chite. Clunk
I just fell over from my chair.
Gt suggested a relief.
Seriously though it works well as piece of having one as another tool to keep from over-pressuring
No I did not, just didn't talk him out of it.... :sly:
It was a nice try though. ;)
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Thanks guys and GT. Yeah I know the slop is normal from previous boats but the oil color is not lol so I will see whats going on this weekend! Is the only way to regulate when the bassets come in by the stiffness of the spring in the Bassett t valve there? Id like mine to come in later if possible seem like they come on really soon. Like 1500 to 1800 rpms or so. Boat idles at 900 to 1k but again back to the boat I will take some pics and let you guys know what I find here! Thanks for the help.
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