Post by: RiverRat474 on August 22, 2016, 08:35:53 AM
Post by: GT Jets on August 22, 2016, 09:04:53 AM
Sounds like the key switch took a poo...
GT
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 22, 2016, 09:30:52 AM
Can you run a temporary wire from the (I) terminal to the coil (+)?Yes I will have to pick up some up I ran out. What gauge would you recommend, if I had to replace just the wire?
Sounds like the key switch took a poo...
GT
Post by: GT Jets on August 22, 2016, 10:33:56 AM
Yes I will have to pick up some up I ran out. What gauge would you recommend, if I had to replace just the wire?
Not replace, just temporarily jumper between the two.
Probably a switch.
GT
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 22, 2016, 10:43:28 AM
Not replace, just temporarily jumper between the two.I understand. I was also thinking ahead. My luck with boats the last couple years has not been a stellar experience.
Probably a switch.
GT
Post by: GT Jets on August 22, 2016, 11:51:45 AM
I understand. I was also thinking ahead. My luck with boats the last couple years has not been a stellar experience.
Welcome to the wonderful world of boating. Lol
GT
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 22, 2016, 11:54:15 AM
Welcome to the wonderful world of boating. Lol
GT
Post by: Jered503 on August 22, 2016, 12:26:35 PM
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Post by: propless on August 22, 2016, 01:09:52 PM
I got my engine in and hook up in new hull. After turning engine over with plugs out, everything is spinning freely. I have both oil and fuel pressure. The battery is reading 12+ volts, terminal block 12+ volts, and coil is 12+ with key in on position. When I turn to start position engine just turns over. Pulled plug and no spark. With engine turning over i have a zero ready on positive post of coil. I hoping it's something simple as a bad ignition switch. Any thing else I need to check? Thanks Andrew
At the key switch, make sure your ignition is hooked to "I" or "IGN" (Ignition) terminal and not the "ACC" (accessory) terminal. Accessory terminal will have power when the key is in the "ON" position, but no power in the "start" position. If your 100% sure you are using the ignition terminal, then the switch is bad.
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 27, 2016, 11:49:59 AM
Post by: GT Jets on August 27, 2016, 01:03:59 PM
Well I'm at a loss still will not start. I must have a short somewhere. I replaced the ignition switch, coil, and the breaker switch. Also ran the jumper wire from the switch mag post to coil plus side. When new switch is on gauge reads 12+ volts, turn to start it goes to 0 volts.
What?
The word "mag" has me worried .
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 27, 2016, 01:14:27 PM
What?Sorry short for magneto post
The word "mag" has me worried .
Post by: Flusher on August 27, 2016, 02:06:33 PM
Since magnetos generate their own electricity, the ground lug on a mag provides a path for the electricity to flow to ground instead of through the coil, plugs, etc. when you want to stop the engine from running.
That mag terminal on your switch should go to ground so it should never show any voltage.
I'm not fully down with the "magneto circuit" in your picture indicating a ground opposite the switch unless they intended to illustrate the internal ground within the magneto.
Bottom line, that is not the right switch for any non-magneto ignition, however you could use it to energize a relay that powers your electric ignition.
Post by: Flusher on August 27, 2016, 02:10:44 PM
The battery is reading 12+ volts, terminal block 12+ volts, and coil is 12+ with key in on position.
With that switch, wired according to the diagram, I don't see how this is possible.
Post by: GT Jets on August 27, 2016, 02:13:41 PM
Your switch should have an "S", an "I", a "B" and maybe an "ACC"....
Post by: propless on August 27, 2016, 03:00:23 PM
X3, wrong switch.
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 27, 2016, 03:08:11 PM
Post by: GT Jets on August 27, 2016, 03:41:43 PM
Ok I feel really dumb. I bought a new switch same as old one. The dumb part is the po was running a magneto. Can I use this new switch by changing the wiring location or do I have to buy another switch? Thanks everyone for your help. Sorry for banging your head against the same wall as me.
The switch works backwards..... Best to buy a proper switch. JMO
GT
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 27, 2016, 03:51:31 PM
The switch works backwards..... Best to buy a proper switch. JMOpulled the switch off my Miller. What do I do with the ground wire on the switch with the magneto switch. Switch from the Miller just has ACC, IGN, ST, BAT.
GT
Post by: GT Jets on August 27, 2016, 04:07:08 PM
pulled the switch off my Miller. What do I do with the ground wire on the switch with the magneto switch. Switch from the Miller just has ACC, IGN, ST, BAT.
No ground on the new switch. Cut it back.
GT
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 27, 2016, 05:13:49 PM
Post by: propless on August 27, 2016, 09:28:40 PM
Well it's a work in progress. Got it to fire, but I have no gauges now. Has to be a wire or two out of place. Hit my target stress level, I'm done for the night. Thanks again for your time and patience.
You made the right choice. Sometimes you just have to walk away. It will still be there tomorrow and you'll find the issue much faster with a fresh outlook. At least it runs. :thumbup:
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 28, 2016, 11:42:51 AM
Post by: GT Jets on August 28, 2016, 12:04:49 PM
I connected the ground wire that was removed from the old switch back up at terminal block. Which turned the bilge pump back on. Moved the 2 wires connected to the ACC on old switch to IGN on new switch. Gave me all my gauges back. Now the engine starts and stops clean, everything is working well. No time for a lake test, just have to do it at the river next weekend. But I will finally have a running boat. 😎
You need the right switch. You are asking for trouble.
JMO
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 28, 2016, 12:40:11 PM
You need the right switch. You ate asking for trouble.I do have the correct switch. The ground wire on old switch was disconnected like you suggested. But turns out some spliced into somewhere in the back for the bulge pump. As for the wires connected to ACC on old switch moved to IGN on new switch turned all my gauges back on. I hope that will not be a problem just to end the season. Will be rewiring the whole boat this winter. It has splices add-ons and old electronic tank selector still wired up.
JMO
Post by: GT Jets on August 28, 2016, 12:46:16 PM
I do have the correct switch. The ground wire on old switch was disconnected like you suggested. But turns out some spliced into somewhere in the back for the bulge pump. As for the wires connected to ACC on old switch moved to IGN on new switch turned all my gauges back on. I hope that will not be a problem just to end the season. Will be rewiring the whole boat this winter. It has splices add-ons and old electronic tank selector still wired up.
Ok, gotcha, you should be OK. I've never had a boat I didn't completely rewire.
Post by: RiverRat474 on August 28, 2016, 12:54:59 PM
Ok, gotcha, you should be OK. I've never had a boat I didn't completely rewire.Thanks again you questioning the old switch with magneto post. Saved me and put everything on the right path. I owe you beers. 🍻🍻🍻
Post by: GT Jets on August 28, 2016, 01:30:55 PM
Thanks again you questioning the old switch with magneto post. Saved me and put everything on the right path. I owe you beers. 🍻🍻🍻
Quite literally, my reward is knowing you got on the water and having a good time, but I would love to have a beer with you. 8)
Post by: stuey93 on September 01, 2016, 07:36:25 PM
