OK, In all my research, I initially torqued the T/R on Moo at 65 ft/lbs (as best I could). Obviously, might not have been enough (yes, I retorqued after running her a couple of times). The cast iron intake was spec'd at 95 I think.

First thing, is there a sealant I should be using other than RTV black on the front and rear of the intake, and to help seal the gaskets? ( Rubber end seals are not used in this case, using a bathtub under the T/R). I want to do it right this time around! So is there a better sealant?

Second, I'm guessing my torque was a little low, should I use the 95 or 65? (Torquing this thing is a nightmare with the 17PH stainless allen bolts, mind you!) I am assuming the first time I did it, torquing the vertical studs between #2 and 3 and 6 and 7 first was wrong, (Followed factory torque procedures)

Any thoughts?

Ray

If it has cast iron heads 30ft lbs, if aluminum heads i would stick closer to 20-25 ft lbs. I have no clue where you got 95 ft lbs from  I have had good luck with the "Right Stuff" silicone sealer between the intake and valley tray and then apply it between the block and the tray. I dont use any sealer around the water ports unless there is some kind of pitting around the jacket, Just hi-tack to hold everything in place 

X2 

The torque sequence is actually as important as torque itself...

Goo no worky on water BTW.....

Maybe some Permatex #2....

GT

I serousley doubt that the header water is the problem! I am running aWAAAYYY bigger cam than you and have left the water to the headers on  more than a couple occasions and have never milked my oil. On my old 460 in my tahiti I had milked oil all the time , it ended up being a intake gasket was leaking around the water ports.

I am running .761 lift and 322 advertised duration cam and have had no reversion problems.

Check the intake manifold to head fitment! You would not believe how bad some intakes fit , I send at least one a week back dut to being a piece of shit! You might need to get thicker intake manifold gaskets.