SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: socaljst1970 on September 29, 2014, 06:24:11 PM
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Hey guys have read all the previous posts i could find with reversion in them already. :banghead:
I have an unknown cam in my milkshake maker (502 Gen VI w/lightning headers), short of pulling the cam to be sure I wanted to have you all see what i see.
Water in oil and rear two cylinders on both sides obviously getting steam cleaned. I started looking for why and noticed on the headers, those rear cylinders on each are the 'low' exhaust points in the collector.
Aside from a cam change, I have read using a Bassett T valve, or turning up idle, or both could reduce chance of exhaust reversion. What are your thoughts about not changing the cam and just trying to work around the issue?
Called lightning and waiting for a call back to see if they can extend the water sleeve further down my exhaust (see pics) and hopefully lessen the chance of reversion....
Thanks in advance for your experience and expertise on this guys - goin crazy here......
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Milkshake would be the least of your problems if it was reversion.....
-beerjet-
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Not sure I follow brother..... hydro locking etc you mean? I get that... looking for solutions to keep water out completely without a cam change.....
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To get milkshake through a cylinder is an enormous amount of water.
-beerjet-
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Much more than just hydro locking I think.
You'd have broken parts
-beerjet-
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ahhhh - gotcha
here is a pic of #7 that had zero compression (valve guides so loose you could bang the two valves together, see the nicks on them?)
anyhow - this is hole that had zero compression - def water getting in, look at the exhaust valve (on the right) with rust from water droplets.... this hole wasnt burning it back off at all...
hence my post in the first place - my worry about just putting new heads on the same config and going back out....
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This is the timeline that maybe will shed some light on where i am now looking.....
502 Engine Timeline - need help finding a cause before re-assembly
Noticed milky oil - engine sounded good on trailer
Took out and did half lap on water - started steaming through valve covers
Unsure if would just steam it all off, went home for oil change
Did compression check while draining oil - ZERO on # 7
Disassembled and head gasket looks ok except soot across water jacket outlines on HG
#5 and #7 were getting wet as pistons (especially 7) were steam cleaned
Took heads to machine shop - found cracks only in #1 near spark plug hole and stud @ #1
Valve guide in #7 shot - valves so loose the can touch each other and wiggle when pulled out a ways
GEN VI 502 - blind head bolt holes - no chance water came from there
Headers are wet style lightning - could be reversion? Rust water drops on #7 exhaust valve
Unknown cam specs to determine overlap (thinking reversion again)
Putting fresh aluminum heads on (old ones were iron WP Merlins)
Pictures of tear down -
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0)
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How are the bearings after running with that milk shake. Known to be pretty tough on the bearings.
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no clue... trying to avoid pulling the block... :screwy:
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Milk shake, in my opinion, is coming from somewhere else.
The rust could be from the oil making its way down the valve and puddling on top of the piston if it ever sat at the top of the hole.
I just don't feel like reversion caused it.
Now if you ask my wife, I'm always wrong so take it for what it's worth.
-beerjet-
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UGH... so buried in this project already... maybe only option is the pull the block....................... but OMFG i miss our old boat....
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Any pictures of the mating surface on the heads?
I originally thought my milkshake was caused by reversion... Until I ran my headers dry and still brought the boys to the yard.... Ended up being a poor machined surface between the block and heads...
Sent with my Fingers
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look at the last third of these....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0)
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sadly cant find any other info than is what shown in the pics..... engine assembler is anonymous and specs are lost. heads appear true to the shop and gaskets dont show leakage...
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#57 & 58 on the pics you posted the link to show strange signs to me. Corrosion beyond the seal on the heads/intake manifold mating surface... Water is getting past the seal...
Omar, correct me if I'm wrong... Thanks bud!
Sent with my Fingers
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#57 & 58 on the pics you posted the link to show strange signs to me. Corrosion beyond the seal on the heads/intake manifold mating surface... Water is getting past the seal...
Omar, correct me if I'm wrong... Thanks bud!
Sent with my Fingers
He mentioned the seals were bad.
-beerjet-
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He mentioned the seals were bad.
-beerjet-
Oh okay. I'm confused then..
Sent with my Fingers
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Since the boating season is winding down, if it was me, I'd pull the engine and go through the whole thing looking for tell tale signs of any possibility where water is entering the engine. Have the block and heads magnafluxed or pressure checked because the eye can't see everything. Another thing to be sure of is that you're not running too much internal water pressure through the engine pushing a gasket. I run a -8 ball valve from the pump to the water inlet of the engine and a mechanical water pressure gauge and have it dialed in so water pressure and engine temp are happy. I have 5lbs pressure at idle and dead in it I have 15lbs and temp at idle is about 150 and 125-30 at cruise. As far as water reversion, I have a cam that has a fair amount of overlap and wet headers and never have had water in the oil. I use a Bassett T with one more restriction in my lines. The feed line is -8 and I use a -8 male union that I have tapped for a -4 pipe plug inside with a .100 hole in the middle. My headers are dry at idle and have a nice fog at mid rpm and at WOT are dry again. I have seen many other jet boats with wet headers that are pouring water out the collectors at all rpm and this is too much. You will find the problem, and as with most, it's something simple or stupid...Best of luck.
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Oh okay. I'm confused then..
Sent with my Fingers
Shot guides aren't gonna introduce water into the oil is all I'm saying.
-beerjet-
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Since the boating season is winding down, if it was me, I'd pull the engine and go through the whole thing looking for tell tale signs of any possibility where water is entering the engine.
I believe it is getting in past the rings... Sorry Omar.
Have the block and heads magnafluxed or pressure checked because the eye can't see everything.
Good call.
Another thing to be sure of is that you're not running too much internal water pressure through the engine pushing a gasket.
Another one, but I can expand on this momentarily.
I run a -8 ball valve from the pump to the water inlet of the engine and a mechanical water pressure gauge and have it dialed in so water pressure and engine temp are happy.
I have 5lbs pressure at idle and dead in it I have 15lbs and temp at idle is about 150 and 125-30 at cruise. As far as water reversion, I have a cam that has a fair amount of overlap and wet headers and never have had water in the oil. I use a Bassett T with one more restriction in my lines.
You simply cannot cut the water off of jacketed thru hulls...
The feed line is -8 and I use a -8 male union that I have tapped for a -4 pipe plug inside with a .100 hole in the middle.
:thumbup:
My headers are dry at idle and have a nice fog at mid rpm and at WOT are dry again.
Again... The boat would sink in about three minutes... (burned hoses)
I have seen many other jet boats with wet headers that are pouring water out the collectors at all rpm and this is too much.
Wrong again.
You will find the problem, and as with most, it's something simple or stupid...Best of luck.
Ain't that the damn truth...
GT
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I believe it is getting in past the rings... Sorry Omar.
Good call.
GT
in just one hole?
not to say it couldn't but I figure reversion would have happened a lot sooner.
-beerjet-
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This is the timeline that maybe will shed some light on where i am now looking.....
502 Engine Timeline - need help finding a cause before re-assembly
Noticed milky oil - engine sounded good on trailer
Took out and did half lap on water - started steaming through valve covers
Unsure if would just steam it all off, went home for oil change
Did compression check while draining oil - ZERO on # 7
Disassembled and head gasket looks ok except soot across water jacket outlines on HG
#5 and #7 were getting wet as pistons (especially 7) were steam cleaned
Took heads to machine shop - found cracks only in #1 near spark plug hole and stud @ #1
Valve guide in #7 shot - valves so loose the can touch each other and wiggle when pulled out a ways
GEN VI 502 - blind head bolt holes - no chance water came from there
Headers are wet style lightning - could be reversion? Rust water drops on #7 exhaust valve
Unknown cam specs to determine overlap (thinking reversion again)
Putting fresh aluminum heads on (old ones were iron WP Merlins)
Pictures of tear down -
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0)
Questions, I like 'em as much as pictures... :sly:
What RPM does this deal idle?
What do you have controlling water flow?
Is there a dump line anywhere?
Even a remote wild ass guess as to what the running block pressure is?
What temperature does it run (may have missed that)?
Where does your ignition timing run at idle and above 2,500RPM?
The potatoes.
Without precise control of the water volume going through the headers, you can very easily flood the exhaust with too much water. This will cause some pretty severe and constant reversion. Do you have flapper valves? You should.
I would be willing to bet your camshaft has a silly big overlap or a simply nutty exhaust duration, this will cause so many issues with a flooded exhaust. Even extending the internal collector tube will not help IMHO. To give you an idea, my '64 Chevelle when it had a 410" small block in it could suck a red rag right out of your hand and into the tail pipe at idle... :screwy:
Lightnings are tricky. I personally can't stand them, but they can be made to work, and work very well.
With the engine running, the exhaust outlet (where the exhaust gasses mix with the water) really needs to be hotter than you would think. I have heard numbers anywhere from 160°F all the way to 230°F. Too cold indicates way too much water to exhaust ratio.
You can check the lobe centers with a degree wheel or a timing tape and a dial indicator. Once the exhaust valve closes (as indicated by the dial indicator on the lifter or the rocker arm), move the dial indicator to the intake valve lifter/rocker and note the degree wheel/tape reading, slowly move the crank until the intake makes even the slightest move. Bam...
There is your number. For that system to work, 108° will work with a very small duration, but if the cam is as gnarly as I am betting it is, you really need to be at 112°.. There are not very many "off the shelf" camshafts with those specifications.
If the engine temperature is low (at all times) you can really cut the amount of water to the engine down. Shoot for a WOT temp in the 120-130°F range, it should idle around 150°F tops. The idle in the water should be about 1,000-1,100. This sounds high, but it is not if the cam is large.
My marathon motors typically idles at about 1,200 and were unhappy about it. (lumpy)
Some more ignition timing at idle can help if the problem is not too severe... I suspect that this one is pretty bad.
I need to look at your pictures a little closer and I will respond again if I see something suspect.
Good luck bud.
GT
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in just one hole?
not to say it couldn't but I figure reversion would have happened a lot sooner.
-beerjet-
I would be willing to bet that virtually all of the cylinders are seeing some water. It only takes about 2oz. of water to completely jack the oil up. I have poured 16oz. of water right down carburetors with the engine running on cars that had failed EGR valves to knock the carbon off the piston.... No ill effects, but we are talking automotive engines.
GT
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One more question.... Where the hell is your header water coming from? The water should be hot (over 120°), from the engine. I can't see how that would be the case... What am i missing?
GT
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Betting you a bucket of micro brews you need to do a cam change.
Textbook problem.
Extending the inner collector tube cannot be done BTW, it is done at the time of manufacturing. :thumbdown:
Not to rub it in, but this is an extremely common problem with these headers. Seen it over a dozen times.
Also, these systems rarely make enough block pressure to puke gaskets. Not saying impossible, just saying I would be shocked.
GT
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Thanks for all the comments guys - to address some of the questions
What RPM does this deal idle? - I had this boat on the water for about 15 minutes of my ownership - idle was low. (wont be anymore thats for sure)
What do you have controlling water flow? - Nothing that i see - bought a gate valve and adapters to install on motor side, exhaust is fed from the pump on its own system - I am seeing that is all wrong based on what i am reading here - sounds like i should feed the headers from the motor out (which currently just dumps out the side of the hull)
Is there a dump line anywhere? -will take some pics of that specifically, but again, i should reroute this i take it
Even a remote wild ass guess as to what the running block pressure is? - clueless on this - gate valve in hand though and going in w/gauge
What temperature does it run (may have missed that)? - when i took it out it didnt seem to build any. headers were cool to touch while running. another indicator of maybe just too much damn water? i imagine a little heat in them is ok?
Where does your ignition timing run at idle and above 2,500RPM? - another unknown due to new ownership
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One more question.... Where the hell is your header water coming from? The water should be hot (over 120°), from the engine. I can't see how that would be the case... What am i missing?
GT
Hope these pictures shed more light - there are what appear to be two separate water systems totally. One comes from the pump through the transom, to a T and runs -8 or -10 to the headers and thats it for that system. I see no regulation unless its in the T and whatever the rails reduce to.
The second also comes from the pump, lower in the transom, to the T above the battery switch then into the 'water pump' holes and 'out' the thermostat housing on the intake. From there it goes out the side into two dumps on the driver side. Also, not seeing regulation of anykind. I have a Gate valve going in place of the T per suggestions from others.
Ok here are the pics that might show better than my 'cant sleep over this crap' typing......
On a side note: thank you everyone for the help and info.
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I had a similar problem with exhaust reversion new engine build 540 stroker motor turned out my cam was not ground to the right specs took the cam out reground by Steve long @ Steve long racing cams problem went away...... Before having the cam ground motor ran fantastic on the trailer no problems as soon as I would hook it up to water boom water in the oil. Like immediately
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Just drop this pile off....
I'll give you mine, it's turn key and always has been.
problem solved!
-beerjet-
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Hope these pictures shed more light - there are what appear to be two separate water systems totally. One comes from the pump through the transom, to a T and runs -8 or -10 to the headers and thats it for that system. I see no regulation unless its in the T and whatever the rails reduce to.
The second also comes from the pump, lower in the transom, to the T above the battery switch then into the 'water pump' holes and 'out' the thermostat housing on the intake. From there it goes out the side into two dumps on the driver side. Also, not seeing regulation of anykind. I have a Gate valve going in place of the T per suggestions from others.
Ok here are the pics that might show better than my 'cant sleep over this crap' typing......
On a side note: thank you everyone for the help and info.
This set up is so incorrect that I am not even a little shocked that it puked.
Let me do some research and see if I can come up with a proven game plan.
You should get the front of the motor pulled apart to identify your mystery cam. Otherwise it is a shot in the dark as far as not having to go through all this again.
You can have that camshaft in your hand in just a couple of hours.
Jmho
GT
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This set up is so incorrect that I am not even a little shocked that it puked.
Let me do some research and see if I can come up with a proven game plan.
You should get the front of the motor pulled apart to identify your mystery cam. Otherwise it is a shot in the dark as far as not having to go through all this again.
You can have that camshaft in your hand in just a couple of hours.
Jmho
GT
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Thanks GT - looking forward to your reply and will check out just tugging the cam when back at the house, might just do that if access is realistic. thanks
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Thanks GT - looking forward to your reply and will check out just tugging the cam when back at the house, might just do that if access is realistic. thanks
Do you have a way to pull the motor?
In my experience, the time savings is well worth it.
Typically if we had more than two hours of oily engine work to do, we would spend the thirty minutes taking the motor out and bolting it to a stand.
I find that you can catch more unseen issues that way too...
GT
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Do you have a way to pull the motor?
In my experience, the time savings is well worth it.
Typically if we had more than two hours of oily engine work to do, we would spend the thirty minutes taking the motor out and bolting it to a stand.
I find that you can catch more unseen issues that way too...
GT
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At that point i would have to take it to a shop. The boat sits so high on the trailer that pulling the motor in the garage with a picker just wouldn't work, and I cant (wont) do it in the driveway.
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At that point i would have to take it to a shop. The boat sits so high on the trailer that pulling the motor in the garage with a picker just wouldn't work, and I cant (wont) do it in the driveway.
That blows.
Here is what I came up with.
I am working with a phone here with the app so I may be going back in later and editing this.
Water routing.
From the jet pump water port, go directly to a Gate valve. I use a 3/4" Red And White, but brand is not really important but it should be 3/4". I do know that the port from the pump is much smaller. That is ok.
From the gate valve to an open tee, one leg going to each water pump hole in the front of the block.
Out of the thermostat cover (no stat) twice one to each header cooling manifold.
Out of the intake manifold a third time to another gate valve, but this time use a 1/2" from that valve to the dump line. The outlet of the dump fitting (the orifice of the fitting itself) should be about 5/16" max.
Done.
Setting it up.
Start the engine in the water with the pump gate valve mostly open and the outlet valve 100% closed. After a couple of minutes at idle start to close the pump valve until the engine warns up to a very consistent 150°F. Use your hand or an infra red thermometer on the exhaust pipe after the header and try to get the pipe to about 190° F using the outlet valve, own will make the headers warmer, closed cooler and so on.
You may have to dick around with them a little to get then to balance out.
The idle should be about 1,100 or so. Being as we do not know the cam grind. Once you know and/or change the cam we can revisit this.
Take it for a short spin at around 3500 rpm, the temperature should drop, I would expect to about 130 or so. Hit the headers again to see what the temperatures are (obviously be super careful) they should still be in the 200°F range.
It might be necessary to reduce the water flow to the hoses going to each header with a washer to get the engine temp up a bit. Use 316 stainless washers and go with a hole 1/4" you can put the washers right at the hose connection at each water manifold.
Run the set up again.
Once set, this thing will be pretty fool proof. The are no moving parts. That said. Tie wrap the valve handles once you have things working.
The surface temperature of the headers should be around 180°F with a 150°F engine water temp.
There are a couple of other ways I came up with to do this, but this one is the simplest to adjust.
Keep in the back of your mind that with jetting or altitude changes, the exhaust temps will rise and fall. Just keep an eye on it.
Let me know on that cam.
Also too. If you put milkshake oil in a turkey fryer set to about 275°F you can get every drop of water out of it... Making it reusable. Just be sure to change out the filter.
That is a white water guys secret, so don't tell anybody. .. :-\
GT
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Sounds great - will start and see if I can find a dial indicator (harbor freight for a one time user?) and get some cam specs while ordering up some water lines and fittings.
Can i pull/plug either side of the pump providing the two systems water since i will just go down to one? Or is there a difference between the sides (other than where they route to right now)?
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Sounds great - will start and see if I can find a dial indicator (harbor freight for a one time user?) and get some cam specs while ordering up some water lines and fittings.
Can i pull/plug either side of the pump providing the two systems water since i will just go down to one? Or is there a difference between the sides (other than where they route to right now)?
Harbor Freight often carries Starrett and I think General measuring tools. You should be fine going that route.
As for the dual water lines, either will work fine, I like the one on the left side, but only because that is where 90% of them out there are.
GT
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Absurd amount of work to be doing every night after work, but thanks all for the tips and hints. GT & the Beaver - you two are awesome help!
coming together day by day.....
last few pics are worth a thousand words....
https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/sh/ec7dcnx5cp417hq/AACmw1fhqAnM08EEeb3ueT6va?dl=0)
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hey gang - during re-assembly another issue popped up. got a few collapsed lifters and need some advice. The current lifters (shown) are tie bar style and therefore cannot be taken apart properly to clean - tried all the ways to free them up but to not avail.....
Since my block is a Gen VI, I can use the GM kit or I can just replace the three sets of jacked up bar-tied lifters. Which is better and why? Thanks!
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-66291x874-2 (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cro-66291x874-2) - this would replace what i have and would need 3 of them
http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Performance/809/12371056/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet+Performance/809/12371056/10002/-1) - this would replace all and cost the same basically
which way do I go?
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Those Crower 66291s are solids and are not compatible with your hydraulic roller cam
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I'm not sure about those Engine Works lifters or even if this link is to the same Engine Works, but if it is, you might have a set of rebranded Morel lifters.
http://www.engine-worksperformance.com/Default.aspx?tabid=136&Search=Cat4&Cat4=H
If so, and you have an aggressive cam and are turning high RPM, the factory GM lifters won't give you the same RPM potential.
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thanks - aware am looking for hydraulic - just randomly picked from the huge list on roller lifters - anyhow, so the retro fit ones are better than GM or are you saying the quality of an aftermarket will still just be better than the GM stuff? cant imagine i am looking at more than 5200 rpm, but dont want to do this twice for sure....
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I'm not sure about those Engine Works lifters or even if this link is to the same Engine Works, but if it is, you might have a set of rebranded Morel lifters.
http://www.engine-worksperformance.com/Default.aspx?tabid=136&Search=Cat4&Cat4=H (http://www.engine-worksperformance.com/Default.aspx?tabid=136&Search=Cat4&Cat4=H)
If so, and you have an aggressive cam and are turning high RPM, the factory GM lifters won't give you the same RPM potential.
best i can tell they are out of biz and were a private labeler of some sort (morel as stated maybe) - but really looking to know if i am going backwards using the stock GM roller items from GMPP
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thanks - aware am looking for hydraulic - just randomly picked from the huge list on roller lifters - anyhow, so the retro fit ones are better than GM or are you saying the quality of an aftermarket will still just be better than the GM stuff? cant imagine i am looking at more than 5200 rpm, but dont want to do this twice for sure....
This thread has some information of interest to you
http://www.speedtalk.com/forum/viewtopic.php?f=1&t=32193
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5200 RPM shouldn't be a problem with any lifter but be careful, mixing and matching brands could result in the need for different push rod lengths.
If your valvetrain geometry is anywhere near correct now, different brands and/or styles of lifters might have different heights and will require different length push rods. The good news is there really aren't many manufacturers of hydraulic roller lifters.
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Ended up going with a fresh set of GM lifters made for the block. Uses the factory hold down tray in the block (aka cheaper lifters without tie bars) but is done and should be fine lifters for my expectations. Also followed GT's instruction on the routing of the water to the headers (which are just back from Jan at lightning performance who checked for internal cracks/leaks and added some length to extended the mix point further out - a more recent mod he is doing to fight reversion).
Finally got to put fire in the holes this afternoon and it ran on the hose. Thank goodness. This has been an unwanted, LONG houred, and expensive trip down boat motor road, but I am nearing first water test :)
Quick video below from this afternoon, quite a different sound from the first time I sat it in the water when it was a milkshake machine.
Listening to the audio on the first video when I got the boat and idled it at the launch ramp after repairing the starter (yes i am being a monday morning quarterback on myself) you can clearly hear the dead hole popping like a gun randomly..... chalk up missing that at first to a learning experience.
Most of all, thanks to all of you for your knowledge and support while helping me not go nutty trying to get my family back on the water! This forum and its members are second to none in my opinion.
Todays hose run - http://youtu.be/Df_hg8voEWc (http://youtu.be/Df_hg8voEWc)
Day i fixed starter but missed the V7 sound - http://youtu.be/riECL6ZTVlc?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ (http://youtu.be/riECL6ZTVlc?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ)
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Ended up going with a fresh set of GM lifters made for the block. Uses the factory hold down tray in the block (aka cheaper lifters without tie bars) but is done and should be fine lifters for my expectations. Also followed GT's instruction on the routing of the water to the headers (which are just back from Jan at lightning performance who checked for internal cracks/leaks and added some length to extended the mix point further out - a more recent mod he is doing to fight reversion).
Finally got to put fire in the holes this afternoon and it ran on the hose. Thank goodness. This has been an unwanted, LONG houred, and expensive trip down boat motor road, but I am nearing first water test :)
Quick video below from this afternoon, quite a different sound from the first time I sat it in the water when it was a milkshake machine.
Listening to the audio on the first video when I got the boat and idled it at the launch ramp after repairing the starter (yes i am being a monday morning quarterback on myself) you can clearly hear the dead hole popping like a gun randomly..... chalk up missing that at first to a learning experience.
Most of all, thanks to all of you for your knowledge and support while helping me not go nutty trying to get my family back on the water! This forum and its members are second to none in my opinion.
Todays hose run - http://youtu.be/Df_hg8voEWc (http://youtu.be/Df_hg8voEWc)
Day i fixed starter but missed the V7 sound - http://youtu.be/riECL6ZTVlc?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ (http://youtu.be/riECL6ZTVlc?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ)
Cool, be sure to update on how the test goes.... On pins and needles over here. Actually wish you were closer.
GT
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Nearing completion! Was on the water for a while today. New alternator fixed the charging issue - 3rd flush of oil and am clear of nasties and the boat ran well. Stay on the primaries the whole time only while building confidence in the setup, but have it almost right for us! Had to come in early though, parked on the beach put the hull at an angle and the transom adapter was leaking really strong. Working on some caulking skills now!
http://youtu.be/VXE_-AF8Bl4?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ (http://youtu.be/VXE_-AF8Bl4?list=UUuN1gVNIFpEj5kXrTRE4iTQ)