SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: jeroger1 on June 24, 2010, 03:48:50 PM
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Okay, I finally found a decent 455 for my boat. It's a 73, and has the old ignition system (points, coil, etc) Factory heads and intake, Holley DP carb. Still has the water pump and thermostat. I also have 2 Edelbrock Torker intakes, another DP Holley carb, 2 more sets of heads, Hardin block off plate. I also have a big oil pan, with a hose fitting on the bottom. The heads on the engine are J, and I have another set of J, and a set of C casting. The guy said the engine ran fine when he pulled it 2 years ago, and I believe him. I'm thinking for now, I'll drain and refill the oil, turn by hand for a while, the run it with the starter to make sure it's flushed and cleaned somewhat. If it hits, I'll just clean it up and get the boat together for now. If not, then I'm looking at how far to rebuild it.
ANY advice given will be appreciated. I've only done an engine once, and most of that was helping the guy doing it. I'm in this boat for cheap now, and don't want to do anything stupid that'll end up costing me money I don't need to spend. So far, I got the boat, trailer, pump and 2 of everything for a 455 for $500, and I got the engine for $250. I know there are lots of posts about making the 455 more reliable, so I won't ask you to tell me again. I'll search for that info when the time comes. I'm not in a hurry, so please send me all the help you can stand typing.
Thanks to everyone,
Joe
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oil restricters and fun the c heads they flow better and also a 10 qt pan will help alot there is alot of stuff you can do to get the oil backto the pan but it requires alot of work and then you have to hot tank he block after but the oil return ports from the heads drill them bigger and drill the ones in the block out then the fron of the block where the timing chain is theres a hole right there with a 1/2 inch lip cut that lip out too that will help
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My engine has the stock Olds intake manifold. I also have 2 Edelbrock Torker intakes. I was thinking I read here somewhere that the stock manifold had better performance in a jet boat application. Is that true? Am I better off leaving my factory intake installed and just selling the 2 Edelbrocks? If so...is anybody interested in one?
Thanks,
Joe
PS - I'd appreciate and believe a yes/no answer from you guys, but if you reply, could you briefly explain why?
Thanks again
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Have I pissed you guys off or something?
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I don't think anyone knows, lol.
I would stick with the Torker myself. I think the relevant part of what you indicated was aimed at the 460 Fords. Their stock, marine Cobra Jet style intakes are probably better than a Torker.
Ray
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I had the stock manifold on my 455 until I had the engine rebuilt, then the Torker was put on. I haven't noticed a huge difference. Then again the engine was rebuilt and carb replaced so take it for what its worth.
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Okay, I have a few more questions. My motor came with the old style ignition system (points, coil, condenser). In my box of goodies, I have several newer systems, including an Accel Hi Voltage HEI distributor. I know boats stayed with the old system long after cars had changed to them. Should I stick with the older system, or change out to the newer style?
Also, can anyone tell me the correct plugs and gap for a marine application? It's a 73, and the auto places don't have books that go back that far.
Also, what's the best procedure to start an engine that's been sitting for a couple of years? My plan was to change the oil/filter, turn the crank by hand for a while (5 minutes?), then spin the starter to help pre-lube the top end. Should I pull the rocker arm covers and make sure the oil is circulating? Since the plugs are already out, should I squirt some lubiricant in the cylinders? Anything I'm missing that will help avoid any damage?
Thanks....and I'll be back...
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Okay, I have a few more questions. My motor came with the old style ignition system (points, coil, condenser). In my box of goodies, I have several newer systems, including an Accel Hi Voltage HEI distributor. I know boats stayed with the old system long after cars had changed to them. Should I stick with the older system, or change out to the newer style?
Also, can anyone tell me the correct plugs and gap for a marine application? It's a 73, and the auto places don't have books that go back that far.
Also, what's the best procedure to start an engine that's been sitting for a couple of years? My plan was to change the oil/filter, turn the crank by hand for a while (5 minutes?), then spin the starter to help pre-lube the top end. Should I pull the rocker arm covers and make sure the oil is circulating? Since the plugs are already out, should I squirt some lubiricant in the cylinders? Anything I'm missing that will help avoid any damage?
Thanks....and I'll be back...
I am running out the door right now, but I think I may be able to shed some light on a few things later...
GT
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Thanks, I'll wait to hear back before I do anything.
Next question. I'm bidding on a set of Hardin engine mounts (front and bell housing). While going through my box of goodies, I found a different set up. It appears to be a piece that bolts to the motor mounts and then bolts to the stringers. Also, I have the piece that mounts to the front, behind the crank pulley. This is obviously what came with the boat. I know the Hardin pieces have a better look, but is it much better...or just money to spend on the cool factor? It seems like the setup I have would transfer less vibration to the boat since it uses the motor mounts. The Hardin setup essentially bolts the block directly to the stringers, right?
Sorry to keep asking questions, but now that I'm ready to get busy, I don't want to learn anything the hard way.
Thanks again for any/all answers.
PS - Should I start a new thread everytime I have a question, or just keep adding them here?
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Hey Joe,
455 are robust, torque making engines, but they do not like a lot of RPM. Olds cost more to build than BBC & BBF, performance parts selection is minimal, and you will never get the wind up of the other brands. But they are a classic and I like mine (for now).
I would go with the stock manifold or any aluminum DUAL plane manifold. Single plane manifolds don't wake up until 4-5k. Keeping your carburetor selection realistic (650-750cfm) will avoid wasting fuel and fouling plugs. i would use the HEI style distributor. They are plug-n-play, most have 40-50k volt coils, you will never have to gap points or worry about dwell again. Also the stock points need an external RESISTOR type coil and a resistor. Gap for electronic ignition could be .035 to .040. I would use platinum plugs.
have fun
povertyjet