SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: muffbro on April 11, 2014, 05:47:38 AM
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I thought I had winterized my float and kept a heat source in the engine compartment, drained all the water etc....( as I had in the past) but after an unusually cold winter here in Mississippi I had 2 freeze plugs pop off when I started it yesterday.
I had looked the engine over before I fired it up, everything looked ok but.....
my question, should I just replace the 2 that came out, or should I go ahead and replace them all?
mobile
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Visually look at the others to see if they started pushing out too. If they're good no need to replace them all, just pop the 2 in and hope nothing cracked.
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When I bought my boat, 2 freeze plugs were laying in the bilge area. Boat was sitting for over 10 years.
Thought about just replacing the 2, since the others looked ok, but ended up replacing them all. It was cheap insurance and a great peace of mind.
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Sending good juju your way, you may need it.
Usually if it froze enough to push out the core plugs it has cracked something.
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id block off the dump lines and pressurize the block to make sure thats not the only thing that "popped"
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pulled the logs and inspecting..... I don't see any obvious signs of damage to the logs..... went over block and heads and don't see anything out of the ordinary.
oil is good.....no water.....
I do feel some sand in the water gallery when I poke my finger into the freeze plug opening..... I bought the boat in Parker so I'm thinking that's from there.
I'll flush what I can and install the new freeze plugs and then Pressure test it.
mobile
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here's a different angle on the freeze plug hole...... hopefully no problems
mobile
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30 bucks will save you thousands
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718 (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718)
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the old plugs that popped out
mobile
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30 bucks will save you thousands
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718 (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718)
that is my
next purchase ...... no doubt.
thx!!!!
mobile
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ok, so the new freeze plugs are made by Clevite.... 1"3/4" OD
but they are like an 1/8th inch shorter than the ones that came out.....
the deeper originals would seat with
more surface area I know, but does it matter?
mobile
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ok, so the new freeze plugs are made by Clevite.... 1"3/4" OD
but they are like an 1/8th inch shorter than the ones that came out.....
the deeper originals would seat with
more surface area I know, but does it matter?
mobile
No big deal... The mating surface is not important.
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ok. thx GT
mobile
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lol...... well, there is no room for me to be able to knock the damn things in.....
the stringer is exactly in the 'wrong' place to allow any kind of force to be applied in order to drive em home....
foooooook meeeeeee.... hahahaaaa
any ideas gentlemen..... other than pulling the motor?
mobile
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Have a pic so we can see the angles we arr working with?
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approx 5 -3/4"
thanking you; in advance for ideas ...
mobile
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Use a short socket that's close to the inside diameter of the plug and the side of a small sledge. Little strokes but it'll get it there.
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:screwy: sorry your going in. lol
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I have an 1 -1/8 socket that fits perfectly, but it leaves virtually no room to strike it cleanly enough to hit it hard enough...... I guess I could cut the socket in half ......
mobile
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Can you lay a towel over the stringer and get a scissor jack in between and press it in?
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They make a rubber one that you could install to check motor and use untill you have time to lift motor and install proper one. I used one for a season and changed in the off season.
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They make a rubber one that you could install to check motor and use untill you have time to lift motor and install proper one. I used one for a season and changed in the off season.
I keep one in the crash box.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-10231?seid=srese1&gclid=CLi4ycid2r0CFY6RfgodtokArg (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/rnb-10231?seid=srese1&gclid=CLi4ycid2r0CFY6RfgodtokArg)
You could also head down to a machine shop and see if they will pop in in for you... The tools would be helpful in this case, grab a case of beer and walk in looking sad..
Here is the tool... Might be worth the $50 http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-5270--Freeze-Plug-Installation-Tool-_p_295.html?gdftrk=gdfV27228_a_7c824_a_7c2023_a_7cATD5270 (http://www.toolpan.com/ATD-Tools-5270--Freeze-Plug-Installation-Tool-_p_295.html?gdftrk=gdfV27228_a_7c824_a_7c2023_a_7cATD5270)
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I'm going to try the expansion plug route to start with and see if I can't make that work.
if not, I'm gonna try the sad puppy eyes routine as GT suggested ..... if THAT doesn't work, I'll pull the motor.
thanks for all the suggestions.... it's appreciated.
pretty frustrating to think you have done a good job prepping yer boat for winter.....then getting fired up for the season and hit a wall because of pure dumbass mistakes....
mobile
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freeze plugs installed .....
mobile
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That will last as long as your rubber hoses last I wouldn't worry about it until you have to pull the engine
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That will last as long as your rubber hoses last I wouldn't worry about it until you have to pull the engine
Sent from my SCH-I545 using SoCal Jet Boats mobile app
if it lasts the summer I'd be cool with that !!!
it WILL make it easy to install the block heater I ordered come winter!!!
mobile
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30 bucks will save you thousands
http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718 (http://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS-Performance-Products/555/51123/10002/-1?parentProductId=752718)
ordered.....
thx
mobile
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if it lasts the summer I'd be cool with that !!!
it WILL make it easy to install the bock heater I ordered come winter!!!
mobile
I take my hose off where it comes off the jet pump and use a transmission funnel and fill my engine up with rv coolant until it runs out the exhaust and it gets well below freezing where I live.
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Sending good juju your way, you may need it.
Usually if it froze enough to push out the core plugs it has cracked something.
you called it GT.....
I took it to the local puddle and backed it in and ran it on the trailer. it starts and idles, but there is a 'thump/clunk' in there that wasn't there when I put it to bed last November....... It's
most noticeable at idle, no oil
in the exhaust..... no water in the oil so I'm stumped. I ran it for about 15 minutes and it did not die.... if anything it smoothed out some at 1500 to 2000 rpm...... I really
didn't want to push it with what I was hearing.....
it sounds loudest on the right rear side near #6 or 8 cylinder ....hard to tell.
Anyone want to throw a guess out there?
It looks like it's time to start pulling the head on that side, or maybe both as long as I'm doing it. I don't know the history of the motor only it was rebuilt 5 years ago. I guess it's time to find out what I have.....
sigh
mobile
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Run it till it grenades.
-beerjet-
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So I was all bummed thinking I was going to have to pull the motor and find carnage :- (due to the freeze plug issue)...... I decided to try one more time and find the source of the "knocking" I was hearing. I was almost positive it was coming from the rear #8 cylinder......but ::) dumbass me had crossed 6 & 8 plug wires.....no more knocking sound.... :)
But............. When I started it again, I am getting a sound and vibration that was hidden by the misfire due to the crossed plug wires.
:banghead: checking the driveline and u-joints, .... I reach thru the inspection plate.... grab the driveline and wiggle it, there's lot of play in it......and a nice clunk as it moves as well. So I went to remove the bell housing and check it out ......I removed the fasteners, but I can't get it to budge. ( I'd like to remove the driveline and run it to verify what I THINK I'm hearing.) ANYWAY, since I have never pulled this engine, nor the bell housing, I need a little direction on this one. Do I need to remove all the engine mount bolts to get the bell housing to release? is there more bolts I'm missing on the bottom of it?
The pic shows the bolts I have removed so far.....including the ones you cant see on the other side.
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It should be the motor mounts and the 2 that go down on the front of the pump that you have removed. The half ring should come off the bottom. The whole motor will go forward to disconnect the drive line once you go up off the pump and the front mounts are clear