I just  picked   up a 1980 18 foot Eliminator. Had  fryed   fule pump   one  water  line  that was leaking into the  alternator. And a lot of  other  things.  I changed  the  oil  and fliter.Test  ran it   with the  garden  hose and  how  I have water in the oil. when I first  turned on the  hose   I  had  water  coming out the  weep holes on the  headers? DO I  have a bad T fitting  for the   headers? The hose  lay out is  a mess  but  I took a lot of  pics  so any  help I can get  on this   would be  great. I am  very  new  to  jet boats  http://s66.photobucket.com/albums/h244/454thunderbox/Eliminator%20Jet%20Boat/

Thanks  for the  reply GT. Heres another  thing that  got  me is  I did  start the motor  then  turn on the water  and when   the water  started  going in   the motor  droped  RPMs   and I had  water  coming out the  headers  and the  weep holes.I know  that is not  normal? The  boat  sat  for about a year could  the T valve  be  gummed up

Ooops, forgot welcome aboard, BTW nice boat!

Sounds like a Tee valve issue or maybe too much hose pressure? otherwise there is some major gasket leakage or something cracked, is it possible it got cold enough to freeze?

A simple 5# air pressure test finds these problems fast and cheap, just remember to plug all the water hoses, put about 5 psi of air to it and it should be able to hold it, really for quite a while...

Good luck, keep us posted on your findings.

Thanks  for the info. I been  reading and  they said  there  should be a  valve  to control the  water  exiting  on the other hose coming off the  themostast .

The gate valve is necessary so that you can regulate the amount
    of water you discharge. It also is to regulate what RPM your water
    is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is wide open and
    water comes in at 3000 RPM. To make the water come in at 1500
    to 2000, close gate valve approximately 1/3.

I am learning

Or do like all my wealthy freinds, they buy the Banderlog water injection controller, they are sweet, been on my Christmas list for 5 years now

The tee's are regulated by water pressure, so they are not really that idiot-proof, but I don't run a valve on the dump line, just never needed it

An Update....pulled the T-valve  and the spring  was  half way  up the check ball. I bet that was  from the  garden  hose. And     there was a peice of  rubber   in the  valve .Tomorrow  I will  put in  more oil  and  filter  start it   quick  set the  timing  and  idle and  take  her out to woodward this  saterday.If  all gos well I should  have  pictures on the water O  does  the motor  have to be runing  before  its  lowered into the  water?   or  can I start it  from the  dock?

Thanks  GT Another  question  Did   bayjet use a berk suction grate? I am trying to find out  what  jet pump I have.the impeller  looks  like nothing  I have ever seen   three blade polished  and  sharp.From the looks of the pump  it might have been rebuilt  when  they  polished it?

see  if this  works

Update  put in  new oil, filter.checked the  spark plugs and  they had them  gaped at 60  cleaned them and regaped  to 35 one  pump   at  the peddle   and  its alive  .sounds  close  to a top  fuel  dragster.Idling at  about 1200rpm should  drop  down  when its in the water.Any  dos and  donts  when   I get  this in the water..I know  its  doing  to handle  nothing  like my  18foot open bow  bayliner.Lifejackets  will be  worn  at all times on the boat!

Dont throttle it in shallow water . Dont use reverse to get off shore . Practice manuvering around docks , practice , practice , practice ! Shallow water is one of your worst enemy's . The pump WILL suck up dirt and whatever else is on the bottom . ruining your pump in a hurry . Otherwise , have fun and be safe 

-beerjet-

Dont throttle it in shallow water . Dont use reverse to get off shore . Practice manuvering around docks , practice , practice , practice ! Shallow water is one of your worst enemy's . The pump WILL suck up dirt and whatever else is on the bottom . ruining your pump in a hurry . Otherwise , have fun and be safe 

-beerjet-

Yo beerjet, you just undid 15 years of "learning" for me

I have learned "Don't let off in shallow water", and "Practice manuvers at 80+ between rock cliffs", and don't forget "use reverse to slow the hull and accentuate steering while keeping a good plane".

Oh well....

There's always next year

And David B, unlike what your doc tells you, a drip every once in a while is a good thing, at least when talking about packing glands......

Congrats on an "event free" outing.

GT

so   drips are  ok I opened it  up  just a little  to 65 mph  WOW  scared  the crap out of  me  and that was  from a stand  still the rpm was about 5200

Yeah, typically you want to see about a drip a minute, that varies sometimes but thats easy to remember, my Berkeley leaks about a drop every two minutes not running, and a drip every minute idleing, never had the balls to see what its doing at 5200 RPM, really don't think I care .

If it starts to leak more, or requires constant tightening, it is probably time to replace the gland rings...not too tough to do, nor are they very much $..

Winter is just around the corner, "let her buck" til' then.

BTW cool looking ride!

This was  leaking  more  then two   drops  per  minute .more  like  drip drip drip drip drip and I had some water  coming  in at the steering  pipe. whats the  best  way  to tighten the  gland rings?

Well, if you look at your previous post, you'll see two 3/8" bolts running horizontally at the shaft, tighten these two bolts equally while the boat is in the water just until the water slows to what your looking for, if it does not slow, could be a bad Gland, this type of seal needs the water to "lubricate" the shaft, the newer style glands are a little better because they aren't just beeswax, there is some lubrication built in to them, definately worth doing if you have a problem. The nuts are self locking and the bolts will never actually "torque" so don't expect them to snug up, just until the water slows....