Post by: JB1314 on May 31, 2017, 04:22:22 PM
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Post by: el mojado on June 02, 2017, 12:50:59 PM
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Post by: TrollerDave on June 02, 2017, 02:16:26 PM
And they're off!
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Haha, no kidding. ;D
So I'm replacing my leaky gate valve. I noticed it has a 90 fitting right as it enters. Is this necessary? All the setups ive seen run straight from the pump to valve. This has to be a flow killer right? Thanks
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Assuming you're asking if the 90 is necessary? No, not unless it is needed to fit where it's mounted. I don't think I've seen any 90's either.
I don't think it is a problem as far as flow. You probably have 90's going from that valve into logs and/or the front of the motor.
Just keep in mind, if you have a hose between that valve and your jet, and that hose bursts, you have no way of stopping water from coming into the boat.
That's why most people run hard pipe to the valve and then rig whatever from there.
Post by: Reefmoto on June 18, 2017, 01:31:17 PM
Post by: JordanDangerfield on June 18, 2017, 02:52:10 PM
How come no one runs a pressure regulator?
People do. At stock or mild power, with correct plumbing, there shouldn't be excessive pressure in the cooling system. I see relief valves mostly on the boats that are running serious power.
On my boat I run a hard line to a gate valve. From there a stainless braided line to a "T", then into the motor.
The way I understand it is the ball valve is more of an all-or-nothing valve. Also, it seems like it would be easy to knock it out of adjustment with the large handle. The gate valve allows fine tuning of how much water enters the motor.
Post by: Bonzen on June 21, 2017, 10:23:44 AM
The way I understand it is the ball valve is more of an all-or-nothing valve. Also, it seems like it would be easy to knock it out of adjustment with the large handle. The gate valve allows fine tuning of how much water enters the motor.
I run the ball valve and leave it open all the time for full flow. I understand what you are a saying, as far as controlling the amount of water that enters the motor. Are you controlling this to determine water temp?
Post by: 86caribbean on June 21, 2017, 12:35:13 PM
Post by: Bonzen on June 22, 2017, 07:52:10 AM
Post by: mash on it on June 22, 2017, 08:21:50 AM
I run the ball valve and leave it open all the time for full flow. I understand what you are a saying, as far as controlling the amount of water that enters the motor. Are you controlling this to determine water temp?
Take the ball valve and float test it (Throw it in the lake). I does NOT belong on a jet boat.
A gate valve is used to regulate flow.
I would think closing off the ball valve halfway would limit water volume, but pressure would stay the same.
And you would be wrong.
Again, Pressure requires Volume. Limit the volume, pressure is limited also.
Dan'l
Post by: 86caribbean on June 22, 2017, 08:39:31 AM
Post by: mash on it on June 22, 2017, 09:09:39 AM
Post by: bahner80 on June 22, 2017, 09:42:52 AM
Post by: 76Challenger on June 22, 2017, 09:57:14 AM
1977 Challenger
Post by: bahner80 on June 22, 2017, 10:36:20 AM
I used a ball valve between my legs to turn water off and on to the pipes and after one winter it was seized. Just my experience but I'll stay with a gate valve
Post by: JordanDangerfield on June 22, 2017, 04:40:56 PM
I run the ball valve and leave it open all the time for full flow. I understand what you are a saying, as far as controlling the amount of water that enters the motor. Are you controlling this to determine water temp?
I like your setup because because if you blow a water line you can close the ball valve instantly. I close my gate valve maybe a turn. I'd rather it run cool than potentially not feed the motor enough water.
While on this topic...
I'm considering changing my current plumbing.
Right now I have a gate valve off the pump to -10 line, that Y's off to two -8 lines that enter the motor. Two -8 lines dump water over board. One goes straight to a thru transom fitting, the other to a Bassett T and that is split to the headers with -8 lines.
The new motor I put in the boat is in the 600 horse range. I imagine my pump is creating quite a bit more pressure with the additional power. I'd like the motor to get maximum flow without creating too much pressure. What I'm considering running is a pressure relief. I like the idea of leaving the gate valve or a ball valve just in case I blow a line.
GT, Flusher, Daniel, are Berkeley pumps creating too much pressure in the 600 hp range? I guess it depends on the way the motor is plumbed. So, with my current setup is a pressure relief necessary or am I over thinking it and should just continue running my gate valve setup. I can't imagine my cooling system would create excessive pressure given the exit it larger than the inlet with two -8's compared to one -10 inlet that is somewhat restricted by a gate valve.
Post by: mash on it on June 22, 2017, 05:01:01 PM
It sounds like you have a good starting point for your new mill.
With more RPM, you will see more volume to the engine. Some adjustment will likely be in order.
Pressure regulator? I think its overkill and complicated for what it is. Shallow sandy water will kill one, too.
A $6K meltdown on a new mill because you went to close to the sandbar? Not for me...
Just my $0.02
Dan'l
Post by: Bonzen on June 23, 2017, 08:54:55 AM
I like your setup because because if you blow a water line you can close the ball valve instantly. I close my gate valve maybe a turn. I'd rather it run cool than potentially not feed the motor enough water.
Well thats exactly my reasoning. My boat is freshwater only, so I'm not worried about rust freezing up a ball valve. I have a very expensive 2000WOG ball valve right after a stainless steel braided high pressure line off the pump. No hose clamps here, -10 flare fittings
The reason I do not shut down the water flow, is because I am concerned that limiting the flow to the motor will cause some of the water jackets up in the cylinder heads to not receive the full flow and volume. This could develop hot spots. So while your block jackets are good to go, the upper areas of the heads are baking...now I don't have proof of this but it's a theory. As far as pressure blowing out gaskets, well...hasn't happened yet. But I have a free flowing water system. No t-stat or restrictor orifice and big aluminum factory risers with good water discharge into the exhaust. My boat doesn't spin over 5K rpm. So yes, my water temp runs a little cooler than maybe ideal, but we all know that water temp is the "temperature of the amount of heat that was removed or transferred from the motor to the water" technically. So water temp is not engine temp, or oil temp which is probably more important.
Idk lol...
Post by: 77_liberty on June 25, 2017, 07:08:53 PM
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