SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Brad @ SCJB on May 08, 2008, 09:11:23 AM
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I am planning on putting the dual gunnel tanks in my boat to go play on the river memorial day weekend. Currently I have the single 6 gallon bullet tank. I have some questions on what would be the ideal way to set this up.
The way the tanks were set up when I got it there was a line that went from each tank to a "T" then went straight to the fuel pump. There was no valves or switches in this contraption.
Also, There is only one fuel level sender. One tank does not have one or have provisions for one.
Should I just throw them in there the way it was originally set up? or should I put in a L/R/Both/Off valve?
I assume if you're not running one of those valves, it would self level between the 2 tanks so you would only need 1 level sender....but if you're running a valve, how would you accurately get fuel level readings in the 2nd tank? Should I not bother with what the gauge says and bring a wooden dowel? >:D
I normally would figure out something like this by trail and error, but I don't want to be messing with it and have fuel delivery issues on the river.
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... The way the tanks were set up when I got it there was a line that went from each tank to a "T" then went straight to the fuel pump. There was no valves or switches in this contraption...
IMO you want to drain both tanks at the same time, no issue's with fuel gauge being right/adding a second fuel gauge sender and a switch to switch back and forth from tank to tank just to show a fuel asmount, both tanks emptied equally means the boat is still balanced side to side, empty the tanks one by one and then the boat isn't balanced in the middle anymore, gas is like ? 6 ? pounds a gallon, keep the lines for both tanks the same length, no valves, no BS, KISS, IMO
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I pull from both tanks to a Aeromotive Y Block and use 1 sender in the driver side tank. The system pulls both tanks equally and the fuel gauge is really accurate. I have 2-15 gallon tanks and I didnt want the weight being throw off having 15 gallons in 1 tank and a couple gallons in the other. Plus it was less expensive in plumbing.
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Not intending to hijack really but, I've got two identical long saddle tanks monitored with 2 gages. They feed equally to water seperator then single from there. According to gages and visual checks everything is cool until right tank gets to half full and then gas doesn't draw anymore. Why?
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Not intending to hijack really but, I've got two identical long saddle tanks monitored with 2 gages. They feed equally to water seperator then single from there. According to gages and visual checks everything is cool until right tank gets to half full and then gas doesn't draw anymore. Why?
maybe the pickup tube is sucking air? ???
I am thinking of just putting shut off valves in line between the tank and the 'T' just in case I run into something like this or if one tank draws more then the other, so if one runs dry and the other is 1/4 full, i can shut off the valve on the dry tank and force it to draw from the one thats full.
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maybe the pickup tube is sucking air? ???
I am thinking of just putting shut off valves in line between the tank and the 'T' just in case I run into something like this or if one tank draws more then the other, so if one runs dry and the other is 1/4 full, i can shut off the valve on the dry tank and force it to draw from the one thats full.
Hey Brad, what valves will you use and where are you getting them? Greg
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Hey Brad, what valves will you use and where are you getting them? Greg
i havent gotten that far yet.
I know its a rough concept for some people here....but plan first, buy second. ;D ;)
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Sounds like a good place to have hard lines.
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My -12AN lines go from the tanks to the water sep/ fuel filter. There are shut off valves on each inlet side to the water sep. fuel filter. From the Water sep. fuel filter I have -10 AN line to the pump and -8AN line to the carb set up. I can reach back with my oar and turn the valves on or off when I need to. Also have two sending units hooked to one gauge using a DPDT switch.
T.J.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Ffuel_pickup21.jpg&hash=786326016f2408a13874abc4a0dbb9fe5a63171f)
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Some people have a problem with keeping it simple, my stupid self included.
If a person has to have more options/control of each tank Home Depot sells valves that will do the job just fine. I did that on my Miller but never took a pic of it. It actually did come into use the first time I took my Miller out to where it quit running, no gas was getting to the carb, but since I had added the valves on each tank I was able to use the one working tank. Automotive parts supply houses also sell electrical solenoids to switch between two fuel tanks. Here's a pic of a generic one.
[attachimg=#]
Basically you give the wire 12 volts and it switches from one tank to the other. A single switch triggering a double pole relay could be added to where you switch fuel tanks and fuel tank sending units at the same time. Pretty easy sh!t but more sh!t to break and the boat will no longer be balanced port to starboard.
... everything is cool until right tank gets to half full and then gas doesn't draw anymore. Why?
maybe the pickup tube is sucking air? ...
Yep, no other explanation. That's what ailed my Miller's right fuel tank, until I fixed it.
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just make the hoses the same length it should drain equally
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just make the hoses the same length it should drain equally
Thats how i did mine , 2 into one so its like i have one 22 gallon tank...
Now the real question? will i ever get to see if it works....Ha ha :banghead:
2sav ;D
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So Rod how did you fix it short of cutting the tank?
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So Rod how did you fix it short of cutting the tank?
Yes I did. It had a pair of galvanized steel tanks in it. The fuel pickup screwed into a bung that was welded to the tank, I just unscrewed the pickup tube out of the tank, found a pin hole in the pickup tube, threw the tube in the trash, and made a new fuel pickup tube. I just went through my old High Life thread and I didn't document any of it. Cool thread, it was before... nevermind.
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Yeah my p/u tube is welded in. Can't figure a way to "sleeve" it.
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two lines of equal length into t valve =been this way for 20 yrs on my southwind without any problems=no use in over thinking solution
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Yeah my p/u tube is welded in. Can't figure a way to "sleeve" it.
What is the tank made of? (steel, ss, aluminum, etc..) Where the fuel pickup tube is welded in at, is it flat, rounded, etc...? Pics?
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Yeah my p/u tube is welded in. Can't figure a way to "sleeve" it.
What do you mean by "sleeve" it. I documented my pick-up tube modification in another post.
T.J.
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here is what I did. I had one of those electric solenoids but it quit on me and I had to get towed in (that really sux!!!). So I went to Lowes and got two 1/4 turn ball valves and a t and put them in. I run one tank up river and switch to other tank for trip home. It may make the boat a little off balance but not much more than the cooler, pop up shade, chairs, tools, anchor, etc does. Just my $.02. If you could run a hose from bottom corners of the tanks that would allow fuel to cross over from tank to tank, that would help them drain equally. I was think of doing this when I pull tanks out. I want to add bigger pick up tubes and fittings for return lines when I get around to supercharging.