SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Tylerjones on March 24, 2008, 07:15:31 PM
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I switched to headers from logs and had a plumbing question.
After you have ran your water lines to your headers, how do I dump the other line on the thermostat housing out of the boat?
Tyler
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Does anyone have a printable plumbing diagram?
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How's this?
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi8.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fa36%2Fluckiestiff%2FBoat%2520Stuff%2Fcoolinglinerouting.jpg&hash=d4cbd07d609e3fdb2297ca3ccecdb853f735bc4d)
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Thats the same for ot headers right,?
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I switched to headers from logs and had a plumbing question.
After you have ran your water lines to your headers, how do I dump the other line on the thermostat housing out of the boat?
Tyler
You add a water outlet usually at the transom.
Thats the same for ot headers right,?
No
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The outlet can be made of brass, aluminum, plastic, etc.. Here are pics of two of them.
[attachimg=#]
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From the Bassett site . http://www.bassettracing.com/newpage7.htm
Jet Water Injected Installation
1. Install stainless steel lines to headers.
2. Install headers on engine.
3. Make sure there is no thermostat in the housing or any other type of
water temperature control.
4. Install "T" stainless steel control valve in one line of the two lines
on the thermostat housing. Connect the "T" end to header. Lines
to headers should be approximately 2 feet long.
5. The other line from the thermostat housing is your by-pass line.
Run it overboard with a 1/2" brass plumbing type gate valve.
6. The gate valve is necessary so that you can regulate the amount
of water you discharge. It also is to regulate what RPM your water
is injected into the headers. Example: gate valve is wide open and
water comes in at 3000 RPM. To make the water come in at 1500
to 2000, close gate valve approximately 1/3
[attachimg=1]
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I just plumb my headers and here's a couple of photos. May not be the nicest job of plumbing and I may change it but you can see what I did and how I can adjust the water flow from the front of the motor.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Egregaw%2FHeader+Plumbing+002sm.jpg&hash=bcee7817a02f18d28a8c1fad0c13c6935c7fe5cc)
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fhome.comcast.net%2F%7Egregaw%2FHeader+Plumbing+003sm.jpg&hash=040d771485161d788bf6a6cfe84ab8c8ce3dcfd5)
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So I need some sort of valve on the outlet to control pressure?
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:banghead: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
[attachimg=#]
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So I need some sort of valve on the outlet to control pressure?
ONLY ONE VALVE IS REQUIRED AND IT'S RIGHT WHERE THE WATER COMES OUT OF THE JET PUMP. SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO PUT A VALVE AT THE DRIVERS SEAT FOR MANUAL CONTROL OF THE HEADER'S WATER ONLY.
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ONLY ONE VALVE IS REQUIRED AND IT'S RIGHT WHERE THE WATER COMES OUT OF THE JET PUMP. SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO PUT A VALVE AT THE DRIVERS SEAT FOR MANUAL CONTROL OF THE HEADER'S WATER ONLY.
Thats what I wanted to know, thanks.
Tyler
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ONLY ONE VALVE IS REQUIRED AND IT'S RIGHT WHERE THE WATER COMES OUT OF THE JET PUMP. SOME PEOPLE LIKE TO PUT A VALVE AT THE DRIVERS SEAT FOR MANUAL CONTROL OF THE HEADER'S WATER ONLY.
Why you got to yell?
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Why you got to yell?
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=3244.0 ;D
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Thanks guys I have it almost done I just have never messed with the t valve before!!
Much appreciated!
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I think I read somewhere that the hoses after a T need to be the same length. Someone needs to redo that drawing.
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I think I read somewhere that the hoses after a T need to be the same length. Someone needs to redo that drawing.
Rod, they are suppose to be for equal feed. Also, the "T" fitting/ Ball valve is suppose to be set to come on at 15 psi and at around 1800+ RPM. Otherwise you can get water on top of the pistons and into your oil. The valve is there so you can fine tune the water flow so it shuts off when its suppose to. Anyway that's how it was explained to me by the folks at Rewarder Headers. Also the jet pump can generate a lot of water flow and that needs to be regulated as well to around 15 psi, and another valve is used for that back at the pump, or, I guess you could rig it up in front of the motor. I'll be installing a pressure relief valve between the jet pump and the block so any thing over the 15 or 16 psi is sent back out the transom. High pressure water can do a lot of damage to the engine.
Just my 2 cents from what I've been told. I guess you could call this hearsay evidence. LMAO!!
Greg
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HEY! lets ask an expert,, TOM HELP!!
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HEY! lets ask an expert,, TOM HELP!!
Hmmm, I thought I did. I called Rewarder Headers and talked to them about the use of the "T" valve. :-[
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OOPS, You did help, that is exactly what I was looking for!
Thank you
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I did put a valve in between the engine and the headers just to be sure I have control over the amount of water going to the headers and when. The "T" valves can fail. I'll also be installing a valve between the jet pump and the block. When I get that rigged up I'll take a photo of that set up too. I know there may be more graceful ways to plumb this but this is what I have for now.
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I have run into one problem with the "T" ball valves, the fittings or lack thereof, are threaded and if you want to connect heater hose instead of AN fittings, what kind of extension can you put on there for the hose to get a better area to grip?
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heres a tip for you i had on my drag boat run the dump line up by the driverside so when your crusin or just came down from a hot run you can swipe your hand along the side and feel if the water is comin out or to hot itl help trust me
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That's Hillbilly Genius right there (no offense). I have several friends that I need to tell about this. Both of em are always messing with manual valves up by the driver. Driver has too much to worry about this way IMHO and a touch test would certainly help.