Header water injection

« **on:** April 12, 2009, 04:33:26 PM »

Ok so here is my issue.. The fellow i bought my Nordie from "modified" the Basset T-Valve so there would be just enough water going through at idle to cause a slight steaming effect in order to keep the headers cooler... I Idle it more and tend to get just a bit of water in tne oil than I would prefer

... So My question is I'm going to redo the system by either buying a new T-valve or going with a manual control from Rex Marine.. I have no experience with these manual dealios.. So what do some of you guys prefer and can I run just the manual control without a T-valve or do I need both... Thx Guys

« **Reply #1 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:37:42 PM »

I having issues with our Eliminator im guessing bad t valve.

My other boat has a t valve and the header control from rex, its a no brainer no water unless i say so.

You should not be getting water at idle anyways

« **Reply #2 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:40:20 PM »

There are alot of ways to plumb a jet boat, you may want to mention if you have ot,or tt headers. The headers should stay dry until 2200 r's or so. If you have ot's you may want to change oil, and run em dry just to make sure that's where your problem is coming from. So far I've got by with your standard bassett valve, and a gate valve on the dump line to adjust when they get wet. Good luck,lots of knowledge here(not me)lol. BTW nice to see another Utard.

« **Reply #3 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:42:04 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on April 12, 2009, 04:37:42 PM

I having issues with our Eliminator im guessing bad t valve.

My other boat has a t valve and the header control from rex, its a no brainer no water unless i say so.

You should not be getting water at idle anyways

X2, You can run both, but no water at idle at all...

GT

« **Reply #4 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:47:18 PM »

Quote from: SLCKREG on April 12, 2009, 04:40:20 PM

There are alot of ways to plumb a jet boat, you may want to mention if you have ot,or tt headers. The headers should stay dry until 2200 r's or so. If you have ot's you may want to change oil, and run em dry just to make sure that's where your problem is coming from. So far I've got by with your standard bassett valve, and a gate valve on the dump line to adjust when they get wet. Good luck,lots of knowledge here(not me)lol. BTW nice to see another Utard.
[/qu
ote] Ok so They are Basset OT's.. my first experience with them... The dumb A## that had it before filed in a bunch of slots in the valve so that a little water could bypass the ball at idle... I'm thinking of going to a manual valve and still keeping the basset valve so I have all the say on water control... And wear in Utah do you go play...

« **Reply #5 on:** April 12, 2009, 04:49:21 PM »

get the manual and a new T valve cause what you have now is JUNK!!!

« **Reply #6 on:** April 12, 2009, 05:36:26 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on April 12, 2009, 04:49:21 PM

get the manual and a new T valve cause what you have now is JUNK!!!

Easy there Stevie, as SLCKREG said there's lots of ways to plump a jet boat. I had my Lancer done something like this for many years and never had a problem with water in the oil at idle. It had full water flow to the injection lines (no Basset valve), the injection lines were plugged and then drilled out just enough to get a slight mist of water out of the weep holes at idle. I might add that it was like this from when it was built in 2000 until it came apart last year, and the headers still look new except for the area between the heads and the injection lines. I was told to do it that way by an old timer that explained that it takes very little water to save the chrome and that the more water you run through the headers the more backpressure your adding.

I'm not saying anybodys way is right or wrong, just that there are other ways to do things.

« **Reply #7 on:** April 12, 2009, 05:48:20 PM »

Osbo68 the bassett valve, with the manual control should work fine.(that way you know they are dry at idle). As far as where I play...usually just utah lake,or flaming gorge(wy).

« **Reply #8 on:** April 12, 2009, 05:57:02 PM »

Quote from: propless on April 12, 2009, 05:36:26 PM

Easy there Stevie,

Sorry about that Osbo68

I am also dealing with a plumbing issue and talking about yours just got me mad about mine

"Junk" was a bad choice of words on my part

Thanks Jeff

« **Reply #9 on:** April 12, 2009, 07:48:29 PM »

Well boys it's all swell and I appreciate the info from all... I ordered a Rex valve and will install that... If I don't use a basset valve am I right in assuming I won't need to use my gate valve or can keep it on and just open it all the way.. Am I thinking correct here... I don't have to use it to correct line pressure at all do I....
And SLCKREG I run out at willard,Pineview, BearLake.. Would really like to try Echo this year but not sure how the cops are on noise up there..

« **Reply #10 on:** April 12, 2009, 08:24:39 PM »

Sorry too osbo68,
I didn't intend to confuse things here. The easiest and safest way to do it is with the Basset valve and valve you ordered. Like everyone says, its a good safe way to do things.

Quote from: 2savage4you on April 12, 2009, 05:57:02 PM

"Junk" was a bad choice of words on my part

Thanks Jeff

Love ya Stevie

, now get back to work on YOUR boat (not your father in laws)

« **Reply #11 on:** April 12, 2009, 08:58:06 PM »

The only thing about those valves is sooner or later you will forget to turn it on and smoke your headers, the whole point of having water.

« **Reply #12 on:** April 12, 2009, 09:03:18 PM »

Yeah forgetting to turn it on is my thoughts too...

« **Reply #13 on:** April 13, 2009, 12:30:25 AM »

I've never had one, but I thought the idea was to leave it open and let the Basset valve control the on and off, and use the other valve to control the amount of water. $:-\$

I say coat the headers and run them dry

Loud pipes save lives !!

« **Reply #14 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:33:11 PM »

Dammit didn't think of that in my frustration

...

« **Reply #15 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:39:14 PM »

I always wanted to run a spring loaded ball valve connected to the throttle pedal, just never had the nads to try it...Should work flawlessly and be totally adjustable

GT

« **Reply #16 on:** April 13, 2009, 06:49:29 PM »

Fwiw, osbo68, according to bassett, the way to control water to the headers isn't by putting a valve before the headers, it's to put the valve on the dump line. By closing that valve off it makes the headers wet sooner. Like I said there is more than one way to skin this cat(plumbing). Bassett's web site has a list of commonly asked questions, and Paul Bassett is a heck of a nice gut to talk to. If you already knew any/all of this sorry for being repetitive.

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