SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: sandman on January 22, 2009, 08:36:24 PM
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Guys,
Pulled the motor on my boat to do some maintenance gasket changes etc. the motor was rurnning great but went to drain the oil and got a free milkshake! Is it an absolute that the headgaskets are wasted or what other option could it be. The guy that I bought the boat from didnt keep it covered and the last rainstorm he had filled the hull with water could it make its way into the pan? Also saw him running the hose to this motor without it running heard that could bleed into the motor? do I just pull the heads for peice of mind or what?
Disgusted.
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sandman,
Oil seals are made to keep oil in, not water out, IMO there is an exellent chance the water came from the hull water, that being said, running the hose without the motor running will screw stuff up too.
That being said again, if the engine runs real cold, the moisture can't be boiled out of the oil...
Could be an HG, but doubt it...
Bummer, but could be worse (pan could have been full of piston) :-\
GT
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No sh_t thank god for that so what you think leave it or is there away to check leakdown on the stand?
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No sh_t thank god for that so what you think leave it or is there away to check leakdown on the stand?
Plug all of the water lines from the front of the engine and the thermostat and pressurize it with about 15 psi of air, should hold it virtually forever, a head gasket will show up muy pronto...
Good luck bro.
GT
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Thanks GT
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Ok, pressurized the cooling system shes a leaker #5 cyl and #2 cyl. Pulled the heads tonight and found the water jackets filled with sand any suggestions on how to flush it out was thinking I would flip the block upside down and run water through the water pump inlets to flush it let me know if theirs a better way
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Ok, pressurized the cooling system shes a leaker #5 cyl and #2 cyl. Pulled the heads tonight and found the water jackets filled with sand any suggestions on how to flush it out was thinking I would flip the block upside down and run water through the water pump inlets to flush it let me know if theirs a better way
I tried my best to clean my block while it was in the boat..... after enough techniques I just ended up taking it out of the boat, pulling everything apart, and taking it to get hot tanked :-\
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When my motor was making milk shakes , it ended up being the intake manifold gasket! The corner where the water port was blew out the bottom of the gaasket and was leaking into the valley. Hope this helps.
Marc.
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Like GT said , water will get in but oil wont get out .
If the gaskets werent bad , I'd put it back together and see how she runs with LOW water pressure ,
Which might be part of your problem .
If the gaskets are good , I'm gonna assume the water sneaked in .
Which is very possible and has happened to me .
Hell , I didnt change a fukin thing sept the oil and came away fine .
-beerjet-
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When my motor was making milk shakes , it ended up being the intake manifold gasket! The corner where the water port was blew out the bottom of the gaasket and was leaking into the valley. Hope this helps.
Marc.
FORD eh .....
-beerjet-
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ok well whats done is done the heads are off so I think im just gonna have the heads gone thru and surfaced then stickem back on and run it like I stole it! after I try to flush out all the sand from the block!
Thnaks guys
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ok well whats done is done the heads are off so I think im just gonna have the heads gone thru and surfaced then stickem back on and run it like I stole it! after I try to flush out all the sand from the block!
Thnaks guys
sandman, good idea on having the heads gone through, it sounds to me like there was enough sand in there to have caused some hot spots in the heads causing (I assume) a blown head gasket or two...Make sure the machine shop mags the heads and is sure there are no cracks, (any reputable shop would do this after cleaning the heads) as far as the sand is concerned, very common, if the engine is started near shore or run in very shallow water the sand goes in but can't get back out, pull the drain plugs in the bottom of the engine once in a while and drain it once back together, if there is sand in the block, nothing will come out, use some air pressure with the hoses off, along with some water to get it back out...
Good find and good luck with it...
GT
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Well, guys I had the heads inspected there both junk! two cracks in left bank one in the right also needs new exh. valves and springs so my 300 dollar tune up has turned into an 800 dollar one what a bummer! well this is gonna set me back a little if anyone has some good heads out there for a decent price let me know
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Well, guys I had the heads inspected there both junk! two cracks in left bank one in the right also needs new exh. valves and springs so my 300 dollar tune up has turned into an 800 dollar one what a bummer! well this is gonna set me back a little if anyone has some good heads out there for a decent price let me know
That sucks bro, as far as heads, got nothin', I'm sure with all the people on this site, someone got something....At least its not May! ;)
GT
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ya no joke still got some time hopefully with some help I can come up with something
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Might be able to help you out on the heads, but gonna be about a week or so. New (second) boat arrives Friday, just in time for my B-day party that I'm not supposed to know about, then take a couple days to change out it's engine with mine. Supposedly they're new Motorsports heads with like 20 minutes run time on them, but I dunno definetavly until I get the boat and get the engine out and tore down.
I don't need the heads unless they're something more special than I think they are, so.... will be available.
Stay tuned Race fans, not only can I leak test a boat in my pool (Which involved 8 people and more than a few Corona's), but I can rebuild engines! Scarey thought huh?
Ray
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Hey ? do i have to use the exact same casting # that is on my exist heads or are most of these heads interchangeable?
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Might be able to help you out on the heads, but gonna be about a week or so. New (second) boat arrives Friday, just in time for my B-day party that I'm not supposed to know about, then take a couple days to change out it's engine with mine. Supposedly they're new Motorsports heads with like 20 minutes run time on them, but I dunno definetavly until I get the boat and get the engine out and tore down.
I don't need the heads unless they're something more special than I think they are, so.... will be available.
Stay tuned Race fans, not only can I leak test a boat in my pool (Which involved 8 people and more than a few Corona's), but I can rebuild engines! Scarey thought huh?
Ray
Wow thanks keep me posted will you that could be huge
sandman
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Will do. Got more than enough parts now, gonna donate or sell what I dun need. Don't want that stuff cluttering around here. Someone will put it to use.
And no, no need for casting numbers research as to what fits what. From My research, the only time you have an issue is with CJ or SCJ heads on a 429/460 ford. Requires special intake and exhaust manifolds then. Other than that, you're good to go.
There are differences in port size/shape on the different castings though, might want to get familiar with that. DOVEA heads. from what I gather, are The most sought after, right behind the rare DO2E Police Interceptor heads. All being made in the late 60's early 70's. DOVEC heads are like roaches, they're everywhere, but workable. Haven't found much on other castings.
All depends on how much power you wanna make. As a rule, BBF heads breathe OK, but the exhaust side has always been undersized both in valves and ports.
Just my .02 from what I've learned.
Ray
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Hey just dawned on me you talkin about ford heads? I need some chevy ones 454
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OIC, lol well, DATS a different story...........
Ray
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Hey just dawned on me you talkin about ford heads? I need some chevy ones 454
Then casting #s really don't matter...LOL
Open or closed chamber? may have to go check the "shelf". I have so much Chevy shit that I should be dressing like Oroville Redenbacher :o
I have some done and some not, but you can't have my ZL1 heads unless you have about $3500 you don't know what to do with... :sly:
All I have right now is Oval ports, I think one set of "Opens" and one "Closed" chamber...the opens need to be freshened up which I can get done for a price...
I, for some strange reason though you were dealing with a Blue orifice...I mean Oval. :sly:
GT
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Then casting #s really don't matter...LOL
Open or closed chamber? may have to go check the "shelf". I have so much Chevy shit that I should be dressing like Oroville Redenbacher :o
I have some done and some not, but you can't have my ZL1 heads unless you have about $3500 you don't know what to do with... :sly:
All I have right now is Oval ports, I think one set of "Opens" and one "Closed" chamber...the opens need to be freshened up which I can get done for a price...
I, for some strange reason though you were dealing with a Blue orifice...I mean Oval. :sly:
GT
GT,
Hey there oval ports but dont know if there open or closed clue me in! I wanna say there open chambers but pistons are flat tops if that helps.The shop said I had deep chambers for marine use if that makes sense. So let me get this straight I dont have to worry about the casting #'S I can just bolt on any bb heads with matching ports I heard they can play a big part with the overall performance if you randomly swap them out?
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GT,
Hey there oval ports but dont know if there open or closed clue me in! I wanna say there open chambers but pistons are flat tops if that helps.The shop said I had deep chambers for marine use if that makes sense
With flat tops (with the eyebrow reliefs) IMO you are better off with some closed chamber heads (higher compression) flattops and closed chamber should get you close to 10.0:1, which IMHO is a good ratio for running pump gas. I will check the heads off White Trash tomorrow and let you know, they have one summer on them and only need freshening up, (I can get done). I "detuned" White Trash and these had to go (13.25:1 CR) :o
One more question, on the guide plates, 3/8" pushrods? I may also have an extra valve grind gasket set, need to check (I use Fel-Pro's Marine stuff)
Lets get this thing back in the water...... 8)
GT
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With flat tops (with the eyebrow reliefs) IMO you are better off with some closed chamber heads (higher compression) flattops and closed chamber should get you close to 10.0:1, which IMHO is a good ratio for running pump gas. I will check the heads off White Trash tomorrow and let you know, they have one summer on them and only need freshening up, (I can get done). I "detuned" White Trash and these had to go (13.25:1 CR) :o
One more question, on the guide plates, 3/8" pushrods? I may also have an extra valve grind gasket set, need to check (I use Fel-Pro's Marine stuff)
Lets get this thing back in the water...... 8)
GT
GT,
your awsome! yes they are flat tops with eyebrow reliefs and pushrods measure 5/16???
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GT,
your awsome! yes they are flat tops with eyebrow reliefs and pushrods measure 5/16???
OK, I will check to see if I have some 3/8" rods, or 5/16" guide plates, I'll yell at you tomorrow...
GT
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OK, I will check to see if I have some 3/8" rods, or 5/16" guide plates, I'll yell at you tomorrow...
GT
You da man! talk to you manana!
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You da man! talk to you manana!
sandman, sent a PM, the heads went to the shop the other day and I forgot about you, sorry, been busier than a cat trying to cover crap in a hurricane ???
The heads I have are super clean closed chambered ovals, can't find the pics I took (too many memory cards...) they have 3/8" guide plates that I needed for White Trash, so they are being replaced with 5/16" plates, I only have a partial valve grind set as far as gaskets, could order a new one...I will get a quote first (pretty sure I can buy it for less than you) Are your springs on the old heads in good condition?, I need the springs from these (Brand new 140# Comps), I have a nice set of stockers that checked out OK, but don't know what cam you are running...Let me know.
GT
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GT,
Hey as far as my cam im running a crane h-272-2a
LIFT DURATION
107 216 intake
117 228 exhaust
got another issue though since i found out about the heads it made me a little nervous about the lower end so i decided to breakdown the motor its all at the shop right now so im waiting for answers from them to figure out my money situation. Im pretty confident I should get back some better news this time the motor looked real good when I broke it down just had some wear on the bearings so im hoping for just a clean and polish on the crank and just deck the block and get everything ready for reassembly.
so I will keep you posted
sandman