SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: sportinwood on May 21, 2014, 09:52:40 AM
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Took a quick picture of the model # on my carb. Trying to find out what it is. Pretty sure its an 850 but I am trying to hunt down a diagram of it to adjust tuning and all that fun stuff.
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600cfm carb 410 vacum secondary according to my Holley bible
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Here's a pic might have to zo in
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Took a quick picture of the model # on my carb. Trying to find out what it is. Pretty sure its an 850 but I am trying to hunt down a diagram of it to adjust tuning and all that fun stuff.
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I think I have that same carb. Can u take a picture of the whole thing?
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I can get a picture of it when I get home this afternoon. I was running out the door and just grabbed a picture of the numbers to start.
Thanks for the info to start though. I did some searches and just couldnt land on any good information.
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I'm pretty sure that is one of Holley's 4010, 4011 series carburetors that were only available for a few years and discontinued by Holley before 2000.
Unless you are emotionally attached to this carb, I'd recommend getting a traditional Holley 4150, 4160 style carb or one of the clones that are available new or used just about anywhere.
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These are the additional pictures. I'm running a stock 502 Chevy. I unfortunately don't have a build sheet or any better information on the motor.
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Crew chief, why would it be beneficial to change carbs? Is this just outdated for any rebuild kits or tuning information?
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When Holley introduced these carbs they marketed them to the street rodders because this was their first attempt at a shiny finish. The basic design of the carb is a copy of an old Ford (Motorcraft/Autolite) design. The "best" feature and reason they made them into marine carburetors is that there isn't a gasket surface below fuel level... meaning that it should never be able to leak fuel onto your engine (questionable selling point in my book).
It's one of those things, if you have it and it's in usable shape... run it, but if there is any question of condition or run-ability pitch it and get a traditional Holley design.
A quick search of the List # came up with a aftermarket overhaul kit available to replace the discontinued kit from Holley (sounds to me like Holley even wants you to forget that the produced them).
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OK, well this thread started because I ran the boat last weekend and after a day out on the water, there was black soot under my swim steps. Never happened before that.
I was told to check floats and all that to make sure nothing got stuck. I was looking for some type of diagram to reference because I am not too familiar with tuning a carb.
I know where and how to adjust the two floats on front / rear. Any other possible things that can get sticky or cause this?
Thanks.
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How was the boat running otherwise?
Do you know if the carb has been overhauled in the last few years? It might be time.
Inspect the needle and seat for debris that could be causing a rich condition. How old are the fuel hoses, could they be starting to deteriorate from the inside?
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The boat ran great when it was running. I had to crank it for much longer than normal to get it to turn over.
The fuel lines are maybe 3 years old.
I will inspect this weekend and check the needle and seat.
Thanks for the info and responses.
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The extended crank time could be due to excess fuel running into the manifold when stopped.
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When I pull the boat out of the water, i bump the key and it fires right up like it should. Drop it right back in and it cranks for 5-10 seconds.
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