But my battery is hooked up the same it's always been . I went to tighten the wing nut on the negative side and burned the fukin piss outta my fingers 

The boat has been sitting without being ran for a couple of weeks so I went in there to fire it up and of course it didnt fire after cranking it a few times . Thats when I decided to tighten the wing nuts on the batteries . This fukin thing is always taking steps backwards  I dont know the first thing about electrical and it seems that electrical is the only thing that gives me problems on that fukin boat 

-beerjet-

You cant be serious . You mean to tell me the second brand new Optima battery I've ever bought BRAND NEW  has to be put on the charger to fire my boat up . That fukin battery has never started that boat without being on the charger first . Pieces of Blue Top Optima shit   

On the other hand , I do know better than to take 2sav serious . Any other input out there ? 

-beerjet-

On the other hand , I do know better than to take 2sav serious . Any other input out there ? 

-beerjet-

Was just trying to help......Good luck with it.
2sav

i will take that blue top off your hands for ya. but i would check your grounds on your engine block or where ever you have them. that always causes some weird shit to happen if you are not getting a good ground. check your batter selector and all your grounds and make sure the connections are clean and tight.

see if that works.

I would have to agree with aqua, if you have a bad ground it will create extra resistance and cause the cable to get hot, if your starter is going bad it can also draw to much ampers and create the same type of problem, i would start with the grounds, good clean tight connections

 Stop tightening the dirty connection and take it apart and clean it  .  The hot connection (The one that burned your little fingers) is the dirty one.   Also if you always have a starting problem after sitting, check the boat by putting an amp meter between the bat and the + cable, you might have something drawing power even when the key is off  .

If I read this right, you cranked it didn't work, so you then tried to tighten the connection.

The connection is dirty or the wire is too small, either one causes resistance and therefore creates heat when current is put through it.

Clean it...

I do have some loose ends as well . The entire boat is getting rewired because of this issue I always have . Looks like sooner than later . 

-beerjet-

How are you doing your re'wire? buying a kit, making it yourself.....I need to wire the Bahner and need suggestions
2sav

2Sav
 i`m not sure who originally posted this but i do remember it was someone from this site. so for who ever it was the credit goes to them. i hope this will help you out.

As a wiring technician/enthusiast, I have always been a stickler of sticking to the color code of whatever I'm wiring. Some guys don't really care about the color code...they just want the damn thing to work. However, I prefer the color code for a few reasons:

1) The wiring job looks like a professional did it
2) Easier troubleshooting for you
3) When you go to sell the boat, everything is done to a standard to allow the new owner to troubleshoot easier

So here I will post the marine standard electrical color code for jet boats:

Black - All grounds
Red - Constant hot (all wires that have 12 volts on them regardless of key switch position, "BAT" terminal on key switch)
Purple - Hot In Run (switched hot, controlled by key switch i.e. ignition, gauges, etc, "IGN" terminal on key switch)
White - Hot In Start (runs the starter bendix or aux solenoid)
Light Blue - Oil Pressure Sender; "S" terminal on Oil Pressure gauge
Light Brown or Tan - Water Temperature Sender; "S" terminal on Water Temperature gauge
Grey - Tachometer signal from ignition; "S" terminal on Tachometer
Orange - Bilge Pump hot from switch to pump
Pink - Bilge Blower hot from switch to blower
White/Red - Fuel level sender; "S" terminal on Fuel Level gauge
Yellow - Lights from switch to lights

A friend of mine works at Auto Zone,  he told me to NEVER buy an Optima battery.
They have more trouble with them than the other brands combined.  His words, JUNK

I never used one that was his word from experiance selling them.  He said they had to many (dead returns)  of nearly new batteries.

18 Month free replacement on the blue tops....

my red top in 3yrs old, sat on the shelf in the garage for 2yrs while the boat was apart, still works great.  i think, i did start having starter issues in parker that i need to check 

I have a friend that ran an optima in his race car and said they were junk because it gave him nothing but trouble.  We put a full set in my dads bass boat and they lasted 1 year.  He runs die hard marine and gets about 3 years out of those.  I have two everstarts in the Kona, but it is too soon to comment on them