I had these installed last winter when my motor was rebuilt , And i heard a little tick in the drivetrain at idle .... Do these need to be adjusted at all , If so how ?They have a allen wrench head and a jam nut ...Thanks in advance

that's how you do it!, but i think it is different for solid, vs hydraulic...you may want to look up your cam card, and see what the lash is supposed to be

yea i have a solid cam and put .250 of lash or whatever it is, hyraullic cams i think you dnt need any lash? but im not sure? like nordie said.........check the specs on your cam first

I hope you mean .025"

I was gonna say .250 HOLLY SHIT!!!!! Both my int/exh are @ .017 as per spec on cam card. Solid roller

the allen locks the nut in place once you have it where you want it. . you have to turn the motor over till your #1 intake goes down and as it just starts to come up, adjust your exhaust then turn till your exhaust goes down and adjust your intake. at least that is how i did mine.
           

That gets real tiring, real quick.

Adj. valves with two crank revs., SBC and BBC.

Valve Adjustment The Quick Way:

With the engine OFF and spark plugs removed so that you can rotate the engine with less effort.

1. Get #1 piston to compression TDC, Cam gear at 12 o'clock crank gear at 12 o'clock.

2. Adjust the intake valves on cylinders 1, 2, 5, & 7 by "loosening the rocker nut until play is in the pushrod then just take the up and down play in the pushrod and tighten the rocker nut 90 degrees" (hydraulic cams only) or set valve lash (solid cams)

3. Adjust the exhaust valves on 1, 3, 4, & 8 in the same manner.

4. Rotate crank 360 degrees to get cylinder #6 to compression TDC, Cam gear at 6 o'clock and crank gear at 12 o'clock.

5. Adjust the intake valves on 3, 4, 6, & 8 in mentioned manner

6. Adjust the exhaust valves on 2, 5, 6, & 7. Button up and go racing.



Sign in the shop......

# 1 TDC
I    1,2,5,7
E    1,3,4,8

turn 360*
I     3,4,6,8
E     2,5,6,7
 

Thats all i got
Daniel
Mash on it

Be safe, if your basic knowledge level is such that you are not sure that this type of rocker is adjustable, I would say to have someone more knowledgable set the valves with you. And check to see why one loosened up. I feel safe assuming that this is a hydraulic cam because you said that there was a tick at idle. These adjustments are very easy but you should have a friend set them with you the first time and once you see the function you can safely set them.

Paul is right, be careful!!! This is with "quality" comp rockers and hardened Ford Motorsports pushrods on a solid lifter cam. Not a lot of hours on it either......ADJUST IT AFTER EVERY TRIP!



Thing that concerns me on yours is I see no guide plates. Are those press in or screw in rocker studs?  I don't think I've ever seen anyone use screw in rocker studs without guide plates before, especially if running a solid lifter cam and/or roller rockers.......

Just thinking out loud.......

Ray

Be safe, if your basic knowledge level is such that you are not sure that this type of rocker is adjustable, I would say to have someone more knowledgable set the valves with you. And check to see why one loosened up. I feel safe assuming that this is a hydraulic cam because you said that there was a tick at idle. These adjustments are very easy but you should have a friend set them with you the first time and once you see the function you can safely set them.

We were assuming a solid lifter cam Ronnie. 79Charger never said that. Paul and I assumed that from the second post I think.

And yes, I would agree, save for the fact that solid lifter, or even solid rollers for that matter, are going to have a certain amount of inherent "tick" at idle and "buzz" at higher rpm. If it IS a solid lifter cam of any sort, adjust it after every weekend or before you take it out. That "tick" and "buzzing" are slap and vibrations that can loosen tooth fillings if you were to sit on the engine all day. These cams quite simply need the best pushrods, studs, guide plates, rockers, springs, retainers, etc that you can feasibly get your hands on if you want it to live. Loose rockers are pretty common on these.

If it's a hydraulic, I personally wouldn't set the valves unless it has just been running in the last few hours or hit hard with a priming tool. Pretty much the same procedure, except you go to zero lash and add a quarter to half turn on the rocker nut. I like a quarter turn on fresh cams, half a turn on cams and engines with some good run time on them, but that's me.

Ray 

It is a Hydraulic lifter and cam setup .... Lakes , what would you reccomend then The engine builder put this package together for me and said it would be stout up to 500 hp and run 6500 RPM all day . Alot of people say alot of things . I dont run my boat at those Rpms and doubt I have 500 Hp . So that being said , Should I change it still ?

I saw the post by german1 and had mistaken this as a solid flat-tappet camshaft.  If it is a hydraulic flat tappet cam then you might be okay.

What is the part number of the camshaft in your engine...or the cam specs?