SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: leastcoastnj on February 28, 2015, 05:44:31 AM
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Hello , new to this site and working on a project with a few questions. I'm putting a 5.3 in my boat and through some reading and rough eyeballing have seen that the truck oil pan is more than likely too deep to work. What off the shelf oil pans have you guys used or modifications have you done to the stock ones? Also the cooling system, as far as I can tell, the water should come in the lower ports and come out the top? And finally what cut impellers are generally used with the 5.3? It's bone stock currently, have a victor jr and msd box but haven't selected what carb and cam yet. I realize impeller cut is dependent on hp and rpm among other things, just looking for info. Haven't found anyone locally that's done this yet in nj, thanks!!
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I read that Camaro pans are shorter than the truck pan.
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We did the rail kit for the LS install, in a Rogers, for the roadkill episode. The engine that went into it was a crate engine and the mockup pan we got a hold of was supposedly not as deep as the engine in the episode. That engine was set pretty far forward at 23" from the back surface of the block to the transom right at the top of the stringers. That gave just over 1/2" of clearance from the hull to the pan. Clearance would be reduced if the engine is moved back as alignment with the pump causes the engine to drop approximately .070" per inch moved. Rogers have a really deep V, other hulls might have more clearance.
You are correct regarding the water lines, in the lower holes and out the uppers.
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I just watched that roadkill episode. Are the mounts with the cooling ports available to buy or are they custom made.
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Thanks for the info and feed back. It'll be going in a wreidt maverick, it's got some v to it. I think I might just go with the ls4 fwd pan, low profile and holds 6qt apparently, also fairly cheap. Only concern is no real baffles, could have a friend weld some in for me I guess.
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Mstrader77, there are remote mount water pump plates on eBay for $30 already threaded for npt. Could use those if the threaded front mounts are too expensive or hard to find
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The cooling ports are drilled and tapped 1/2-14NPT directly into the front engine plates. The plates were sealed to the block with RTV. The cooling gaskets are really cool stainless sheet metal with integrated o-ring-like seals. There was some discussion as to wether or not to use these gaskets between the block and plates. I felt that the gaskets reduced the surface area contact with the block and that this might cause problems sealing if there was any movement between the block and the plates. Those cooling plates were also considered, but were rejected. They add more parts, more expense, and more sealing to fail.
I recently saw some LS engine plates that are offered for sale. These engine plates use two round cooling ports (top) and two rectangular ports (bottom), like the automotive cooling manifold and will require those cooling plates.
It appears that those engine plates do not extend below the oil pan rail and would not have held the engine high enough to line up with the pump shaft and allow the oil pan to clear the hull with our normal rail installation.
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eBay ls remote water pump .. Moroso
makes some nice but spendy water pump plates but there is a company that makes some for $25 I got them on mine and they worked great
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