SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: speedymopars on February 12, 2008, 12:44:31 AM
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Just made my cam button plate for my mounts - 3 x 1.5 inch aluminum, dropped to 1.375 for 1/2 inch, then reduced again to .700 to clear the cam bolts.
Raised area and nipple to make it look less home made and more store bought...overall I'm pretty happy with it...3 hours of cutting...
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Nice work ! ;D
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Do you have a V-drive? If not why are you using a V-drive mount? Take note the time it could just be tha alcohol talking.
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That turned out sweet. I'm going to need something allmost identical made for mine.
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Propless - Thanks!
Marcsrollin - I got the V drive mounts for 100 bucks off of ebay - remember I'm building a BB mopar, so there aren't a lot of mount options available to me. They are exactly the correct width for my stringers, and other than no where to put a thrust button, seemed to be perfect. I'll be running the mounts "V drive backwards (which is forwards for the rest of us). They happen to match my valve covers, and the rear mount allows me to have a starter too (Mopar starters bolt to the trans, not to the engine).
HR56 - Took about 3 hours of milling to create this...
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... HR56 - Took about 3 hours of milling to create this...
Once I have my sh!t together :screwy: would you make me one? 3 hours X $__.__ an hour = ?? I have a BBC timing cover with a hole in it for a cam driven water pump, looks exactly like the hole in your engine mount, I just need to figure out the actual measurement needed for the cam button. Thanks in advance.
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Comment are you running a needle thrust bearing in the cam set up and do you shim cam button from front??? how does it work??? have not seen it done that way before. I like that set up looks good. I like that way you can check for ware on button with out major take down. Looking good :o
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http://www.cloyes.com/HighPerformance/Products/Accessories/tabid/185/language/en-US/Default.aspx
One side goes into the timing chain which buts up against the cam and has three bolts holding it in. The washers for the timing chain overlap the hole by just enough to secure a cam button (it has a grove cut into it for this).
The button itself has a roller mechanism, so the tip is designed to hit the stock timing cover and be locked down. The part hitting the cover shouldn't turn, but the roller allows the cam to turn normally but won't let it move front to back (the back is locked in by the rear cam plug).
The issue was I had nothing for the button to hit with the glenwood mounts.
The cloyes button comes with a hard washer to weld to the cover if you have issues, need additional length, clearance, etc. My plan was to run without that washer and cut the .700 aluminum stop until I had the proper clearance. Later, if it looked like the aluminum was getting worn - then secure the washer to the end for the cam to hit (obviously cutting the .700 diam part). This is why I actually made the stop longer than it needed to be - just in case I needed to do this.
My Milodon gear drive has only an aluminum bump like what I made, and they last a long time.
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Here is what it looks like by itself
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Nice work. You said you used a mill, not a lathe ? If so then there is some rotary table work right there.
T.J.
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Turns out that with everything assembled I had -.035 clearance. I need .005 to .010. It just so happens that the gasket material I have is .030 thick. So one gasket later, I have .005 clearance, and everything is happy, esp me. ;D