SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: hallett1974 on October 14, 2014, 05:23:40 PM
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Well yesterday (10/13/2014) I drove the Hallett at lake puddingstone. I pulled off the see if everything looked good and thats when i noticed that i had milky oil all around the distributor. After i noticed the milky oil i went back to the launch ramp and loaded up the boat. Once the boat was loaded i pulled the dip stick and noticed more milky oil. I know I should do an oil change, but is there anything else i should be worrying about. The motor is a 455 Oldsmobile and i know that is another problem for another day. Worst part is I was going to the river this weekend and now i canceled my plans :banghead:. Thanks again for the help.
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The large question is , is the dip stick over full now??? If not , good sign!! Change the oil. Fire it up and see what happens. Check the plugs see if one cyl is running funny. And there's nothing wrong with running an olds!
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Prob intake or blown headgasket
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Yeah the dip stick is not over filled so that is good. Ill check the plugs tomorrow. Well this olds has given me a lot of problems and I'm trying to fix them all.
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So should I pull off the intake ?
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Most likley is a small intake gasket leak. What kind of exhauat are you running?
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Bassett headers
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To much water pressure???
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Too much water going to the headers?
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Maybe
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Ok. Well this morning I'm taking it to the guy who rebuilt the motor. So we will see. Hope its nothing to major. Ill keep you guys posted. Thanks for all the info.
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So it looks like everything is good thanks for all the info.
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Been following this, so what ended up being the cause??
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Not starting the motor after I take it out and water still being in the motor. I still need to get a oil change.
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Water in the motor
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Did your engine builder tell you that you need to start your motor when you take it out of the water to blow it out? If so, that's horse shit. The only water your pushing out of the engine is what is puddled in the exhaust, and what little you get out of the block from the impeller acting as a fan blowing a small amount of air through the water fill line. Your water is getting in the oil while the motor is running on the water, not from sitting on the trailer. Sounds like either a snow job or he doesn't understand boat motors.
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Been following this, so what ended up being the cause??
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I'm not sure i understand that answer. Most the guys are not starting there boats out of the water due to pump damage. If that is the case you have to be running way to much water through your headers. Your headers should be hot and dry at low rpm no wake zone. I would check how much water and what rpm it's coming in. Get GT to chime in on this way more knowledge then I have.
Not starting the motor after I take it out and water still being in the motor. I still need to get a oil change.
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Well when he replaced the intake gasket he noticed that there was some water inside the block. So that is where I'm guessing the water got into the oil. He told me it would be a good idea to run the motor after I get it out of the water. I have heard that from two people.
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Running the motor like that will not remove the water out of the block. Remember when the pumps out of the water you have no water movement. Some guys do run there pumps dry and a few have a jet away. They all still have water in the block after they run the motor out of water.
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What's a jet away
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It is a devise that serve a few porpoises you can set it to run you motor without turning your pump. They all will kick you pump out on a hard shut down to help with bow steering. Safety is main use but its very handy to put your boat in neutral. Was there any signs your intake gaskets were leaking? I run a big cam but limit the water to the headers with a manual valve at the drivers seat.
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I went through the same issue. Here are my three opinions.
-Too much water pressure and is blowing past timing chain cover.
-Bad head gasket
-Bad seal around water jacket (intake manifold)
Since the builder told you to start the motor out of water, I'd begin looking elsewhere.
Where are you located?
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So a jet away will give u a true netutral. No, there was no signs of the gaskets leaking. There was milky oil around the distributor. That was it.
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I'm located in San dimas
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Yeah I seal the manifold twice. The first time was because a little leak
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I'm nowhere near a mechanic, but I had the same thing happen to my motor and I was told it was because of too much crank case pressure caused from water getting into the motor from my o/t headers....if your distributor was the slightest bit loose the pressure has nowhere else to go but out any space it can.
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Yeah that's what I was thinking to. There is nowhere for the oil to go so it found a space.
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Like guys have said. Keep a eye on when water starts to come out your headers. What rpm. And are they cold all the time? You could have a stuck open or weak check ball and spring in your t valve and thus too much water pressure at low rpms resulting in sucking or filling back through your cylinders and then contaminating your oil. Alot of guys run a secondary manual water valve also. So you keep it shut and cut off water to the headers at low rpms and then open It when you get on it. I though my boat had the t valve issue eneded up being a rotten intake gasket on my 468.
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The headers are not cold all the time I know that. They have burned me. I need to double check what rpm the water starts coming out of the headers too. I have never replaced the time valve since owning the boat. Where do they mount the secondary water valve?
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T-valve* stupid auto check
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The second or manual control valve is mounted up by the drivers seat usually between your legs on the stringer. You shouldn't have any water in the headers below 1500 rpm , this is where problems start.
What do you have for crankcase ventilation? You don't want any pressure in the crankcase if at all possible. You maybe experiencing normal condensation if your only seeing the milky oil on the top of the dipstick and at the base of the distributor. Heat from the oil starts burning the moisture out of it and it will leave milky streaks by places it's venting from when it starts to cool back down. Pan evac tubes to the headers or just adding suitable breathers to both valve covers may get rid of this problem. I get that same milky oil in my puke tank on my motor, but that's kind of what a puke tank's for.
Here's the type of valve most guy's run by their seat,
http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13241-polished-billet-exhaust-header-water-control-valve.aspx (http://www.cpperformance.com/p-13241-polished-billet-exhaust-header-water-control-valve.aspx)
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As soon as you pull your boat out of the water half of the block will drain, any water left in the exhaust will drain through the weep holes. The only reason in my mind he would tell you to fire it up after would be to clear out the headers but why, they will drain through the weep holes like I Just said or the t valve isn't working. But the main issue is either he's not I familiar with boat set ups or he's just bs'ing you just trying to keep you happy.
And most of the time, the guys blowing out their boats are trying to get some attention or are runnin log exhausts which will hold water.
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I think a few of us will be going out to Elsinore on Saturday if you could use some help.
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Wish I could go on Saturday but right now I'm heading to June Lake.
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No worries we are close so some time soon just send a PM and we will see what we could do.
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Sounds good. My name is Bob by the way.
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