SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: glencoe460 on January 28, 2016, 05:58:42 PM
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Did a couple passes today and noticed some milky oil near my dipstick. Pulled it out and sure enough milky dipstick. Pulled the boat out and drained oil no water in oil. Never lost power while running is this something to worry about? It was the first run in like 3 months. Some advice please!!
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I forgot I just replaced my water t valve and had manual valve all the way open could that have caused the problem?
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Maybe oil froth maybe too much oil
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So basically old oil?
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I did the last oil change after the last run of the season
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It would help to know what exhaust you are running
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I'm running water injected bassett headers
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This is a pic of my setup
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The lake water is pretty cold right now, were you able to get a decent temp while running? Since there wasn't any water in the oil when you drained it, what you saw on the dip stick may have been from condensation. This will usually go away if you can get the oil hot enough to evaporate the water.
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I forgot I just replaced my water t valve and had manual valve all the way open could that have caused the problem?
The header water is likely what caused this, if the valve was wide open. Header water should be OFF at 2500 rpm or less, and it only takes a minimal amount of water to cool them while under way.
Dan'l
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I maybe ran it for bout 30 mins before I noticed milky oil by my dipstick I quickly took it out water came home drained it and clean oil no water . Took valve covers of no sign of water either. I probably just panicked too much.
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I did just recently installed a new t fitting my old one went out and I did have the valve all the way open. That's probably my issue. Could I have damaged my engine? It still ran hard before I noticed that milky dipstick
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Should the valve be off if I'm running spring ball t valve from bassett I understood it regulates the water
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My BBF is set up with the gate valve off the jet at 1 to 1.5 turns open (depends on the time of year/water temp). The valve to the headers is set by taking the boat out with the valve closed, get it up on plane at 2500 - 3000 rpm, have someone slowly open the valve until you just get a mist coming out of the headers. There shouldn't be water dripping out the back of the headers, and if the T valve is working correctly, no water to the headers at idle.
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I don't think you have t worry about any damage I put a ball valve on my basset T to adjust the water you just want no water until 2000 rpm are so
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Do you know the cam specs?
1,500 or higher is where the header water should come in.
You likely had cold oil and it never got hot enough to boil out the moisture so what you are seeing is condensation. Sometimes it looks like 50 people sneezed in the valve covers.
Your engine temp plays a small role in oil temp.
I would adjust the water valve to gain some temp at idle, I really like about 150°F once it stabilizes.
All set ups are different.
The tee valve really should be at the bottom of the system and horizontal. The reasoning is pretty simple, it will stay saturated with water (reducing the potential for rust) and won't drain back into the headers when the engine is off.
Also make sure the weep holes are clear in the primary tubes. This gets overlooked sometimes.
Try to get the oil to run between 180°F and 240°F. Should be OK.
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Thanks everybody... this is my second season so still new to this but it sure gave me a scare. Drained all oil a couple times just in case. Oil looks good starting it with dry headers so I believe it was my water valve too much open. Much appreciated everyone!!!
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Possible condensation or froth in the oil??? Did you run the motor for a bit and see if it did it again?
Shawn
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If the oil is clean don't worry about it. It's normal to get some froth in the valve covers and dipstick tube. When the dipstick has milky oil that's when you have a problem
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Is it Necessary to be running 2 valves open or one cracked and one closed? Worried about getting milky oil. Just changed t valve and going to run it close next time out... here is setup 460bbf
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Is it Necessary to be running 2 valves open or one cracked and one closed? Worried about getting milky oil. Just changed t valve and going to run it close next time out... here is setup 460bbf
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Take those off and throw them away IMMEDIATELY.... Is there a tee on the block water inlets? Hard to tell from those shots...
Regulate the tee valve timing with a gate valve on the jet pump.
GT
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GT is right , motor is to cold , need to get that puppy up to temp and evaporate that condensate .
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Thank you for the responses.. I believe it’s tee’d off at block I will check when I get back home later how it’s plumbed and take pics. Would it be easier to just install a pressure relief on jet and leave those valves open? Thanks again guys!!
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Thank you for the responses.. I believe it’s tee’d off at block I will check when I get back home later how it’s plumbed and take pics. Would it be easier to just install a pressure relief on jet and leave those valves open? Thanks again guys!!
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Those pressure relif valves are one of the dumbest things I have ever seen... Install a gate valve on the pump line, I use the Red and White 3/4" threaded valve and they typically end up about 1/2 open.
With the thermostat set up you have, you can literally just turn it closed until it warms up to above the thermostat value and open it back up one half turn... Leave it alone... Run a tie wrap through the handle so it doesn't get disturbed.
One thermostat line goes through the transom and the other to a tee control valve for the headers.
GT
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Thanks again i will be installing gate valve today... took a look and from jet it tees off 1 line each going to tee to block then tees off one each to block to ball valves one line each to top of tstat then bottom lines to dump....I have a separate ball valve off of intake to basset tee then to headers. Excited to test it out after gate valve is installed and hopefully have a worried free weekend at the lake.
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Thanks again i will be installing gate valve today... took a look and from jet it tees off 1 line each going to tee to block then tees off one each to block to ball valves one line each to top of tstat then bottom lines to dump....I have a separate ball valve off of intake to basset tee then to headers. Excited to test it out after gate valve is installed and hopefully have a worried free weekend at the lake.
This sounds correct.... Don't forget to update on how well she ran....
GT
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This sounds correct.... Don't forget to update on how well she ran....
GT
Will do! 

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