SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: More2LifeThanMPG on July 03, 2013, 12:55:37 PM
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So I was looking to liven up my motor a little bit, make it go a little faster and misc repairs at the same time.
So last trip out I had a vacuum leak and my intake was leaking. I was still running points and I melted the negative battery post.
So I'm installing:
800cfm mechanical secondary
Weiand Stealth intake
White performance hei dizzy
New wires and plugs
Perko and a second battery
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So far I've pretty much disassembled the engine.
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And this is a stupid question I know, but what does the carb spacer gasket thing really do? And do I need it? Or can I just use a regular gasket?
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I know the carb spacer helps keep the carb cool, keeping the fuel cool, and gives you a denser charge of air/fuel, ive heard things about them helping at the bottom end of the rpms but dont think thats true
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I know the carb spacer helps keep the carb cool, keeping the fuel cool, and gives you a denser charge of air/fuel, ive heard things about them helping at the bottom end of the rpms but dont think thats true
Humm, yeah I've seen carb spacers in metal. This is like hard cardboard though. It was weird, I still have it but some of the gasket stuck to it pretty good and I ripped some of it.
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I've seen that on every 460 I've ever torn down, and honestly, I think it's just a cheap FoMoCo spacer (thick gasket really) to get the carb to clear the EGR hardware on old vehicles that came with the 460. Just a leftover, since theres no EGR hardware installed on the Marine engines. Why they still put it on there is beyond me.
Regardless, you won't need it on your install. Gaskets are fine and I'm not a fan of re-using any gaskets anyway. :thumbup:
Ray
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The carb gasket is a phenolic gasket. It keeps your fuel from boiling out of the bowl.
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I've seen that on every 460 I've ever torn down, and honestly, I think it's just a cheap FoMoCo spacer (thick gasket really) to get the carb to clear the EGR hardware on old vehicles that came with the 460. Just a leftover, since theres no EGR hardware installed on the Marine engines. Why they still put it on there is beyond me.
Regardless, you won't need it on your install. Gaskets are fine and I'm not a fan of re-using any gaskets anyway. :thumbup:
Ray
Sweet thanks, and I can't stand reusing gaskets. It's hard to battle my pet peeves sometimes, because I hate spending money yet I hate doing things half assed.
Normally the half assed over rules and I end up buy all new everything. Haha
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Looks like a factory Marine 460. The parts you are adding will help measurably, and even more so when other improvements are made elsewhere around the engine.
Absolutely use thick carb insulator gasket. They are still available from Felpro.
LO
P.S.: I might be intested in your factory iron intake. Call directly for details.
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I always see guys with the carb spacers on tunnel rams.. why do they do it? To make the motor look bigger?a tunnel ram already gets frosty by its self ???
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So another stupid question, when install the new distributor do I have to place all the spark plug wires in the same place? Or as long as they are in the correct firing order it doesn't matter?
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Your distributor has a firing order that needs to coincide with the engines firing order. You can find this info online if you don't know. Also a little tricky to get the dizzy to set on oil pump shaft and have the rotor pointing in the right direction. Not too bad though you should be fine. Have you ran that carb yet !?
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Your distributor has a firing order that needs to coincide with the engines firing order. You can find this info online if you don't know. Also a little tricky to get the dizzy to set on oil pump shaft and have the rotor pointing in the right direction. Not too bad though you should be fine. Have you ran that carb yet !?
Okay, my one my buddy's that is a mechanic is coming over to help me tomorrow. But I like to try and at least 1/4 know what I'm talking about and doing.
And I have not, putting everything on at once and going to just run it all at once.
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So I have kind of hit a stand still on the mini reno.
Put everyone all back together and the throttle cable bracket doesn't fit and I'm having a hard time finding fittings to work on the intake.
But it's amazing how much I can clean this thing and it's still dirty... Haha
On top of all the little things I find and want to fix.
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So I have kind of hit a stand still on the mini reno.
Put everyone all back together and the throttle cable bracket doesn't fit and I'm having a hard time finding fittings to work on the intake.
But it's amazing how much I can clean this thing and it's still dirty... Haha
On top of all the little things I find and want to fix.
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What type of throttle cable bracket are you using ? Have you tried the bracket that mounts at carb studs and not to the manifold.... What fittings are you having a hard time with on manifold ? Pictures would help out !
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What type of throttle cable bracket are you using ? Have you tried the bracket that mounts at carb studs and not to the manifold.... What fittings are you having a hard time with on manifold ? Pictures would help out !
I still need to thread the second hole, working on that today. But the holes are too close to fit 90's, so I'm going to have to use a straight to a quick connect 90's. I have the fittings on order though, should be here Tuesday.
And I'm having someone make me a custom bracket to fit on the manifold, he owes me a small favor.
My biggest problem now is I'm really waiting on other people. Until then I'm just cleaning and replacing minor things. Some times my pet peeves cost a lot...
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Once you've tuned an engine to the Nth degree and for some reason have to change where your torque peak is by 500 or so RPMs a carb spacer is what you want. Otherwise you just need to use a reproduction of the factory gasket. Perhaps somebody somewhere has a problem with gasoline boiling in their carburetor from intake manifold heat, but I'd say that is probably a very small number of peeps. Looking good otherwise!
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So as a worried about, my dog house doesn't it right now. The carb bowl hits in the back and the distributor hits on the front. I need a good two inches of height. The dog house has to stay on. I don't plan on redoing the interior in the next couple years, so redesigning the whole thing isn't really an option.
So the options I'm thinking about:
1) make a "spacer" to and install it between the top flap and the base.
2a) add wood pieces to the bottom back corners and across the front.
2b) add wood pieces to the bottom back corners to clear the carb and rest it on the dist cap.
3) cut a big hole in the top and buy a low profile scoop.
4) ???
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Scoop
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I am in need of a mechanical fuel pump. What is a good not too expensive brand? And other than the most recent stuff I just completed the motor and pump are stock. What specifications should I be looking for? Also do you need a regulator?
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Got a pump ill give you..... I won't use it. It's a carter and it came on my motor when I bought it- ford 460 lemme know if your interested.
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So little update...
Finally got the carb and everything on. I happened to find a mechanical Holley fuel pump at my storage yard and the guy said I could have it.
Just got back from Elsinore, no pictures but she ran 56 gps'd. Cruises at 42 on primaries so that's cool.
The main thing I am worried about now is I have more motor that my hull wants to handle. Once I pass 50 it starts to bounce then at 54ish it starts to jump out of the water real bad. And high enough where the engine will rev up because there is no load.
What are some options I have? (I have a JC)
Side note:
Found a couple leaks, someone had screwed the bilge in through the bottom if the boat. And the steering cable through the adapter is leaking.
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What are some options I have? (I have a JC)
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place diverter, trim tabs
just my .02
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If your talking about a porpoising issue at high speed... A diverter will help out. I added a bolt on ride plate/shoe and set it to 3 degrees up from keel to help my hull at wot. I have a straight snoot as well bringing back the thrust line to help out even more. Marine epoxy on the pump hole...then just use a dab of liquid nails if you want the pump to stay in the same spot (on the screen bottom to hull). You can get a new steer tube gasket or add some silicone to it for quick fix.
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If your talking about a porpoising issue at high speed... A diverter will help out. I added a bolt on ride plate/shoe and set it to 3 degrees up from keel to help my hull at wot. I have a straight snoot as well bringing back the thrust line to help out even more. Marine epoxy on the pump hole...then just use a dab of liquid nails if you want the pump to stay in the same spot (on the screen bottom to hull). You can get a new steer tube gasket or add some silicone to it for quick fix.
Yes! That's what's it's called, I was having a brain fart. Porpoising... Duh.
Yeah, I figured the answer was going to be a diverter... And a ride plate? That's a piece that extends past the hull under the pump, right?
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Yes and if your looking for performance/top speed bla bla bla...you need to pull intake and have it machined for shoe. Duane from HTP or ARS marine sells a bolt on shoe/plate deal. I went with the bolt on as it was an easy install and perfect for what I use my boat for....cruising. If you have a standard C bowl, Duane has the cradle in the kit for that as well. Make sure he knows with cradle in height you need...there's a tall an short. I used the tall from ars( Duane didn't have any in stock at the time) adding a 3/4 block to achieve 3 degrees and right angle for extra strength. I had to shave the small area between intake an transom to get plate to attach...but thats normal. Heres mine and then this is Duanes install directions. I also added epoxy in and around shoe for smooth water transition.
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Based on the speed in getting and pretty happy with mid 50's, and from what I read I will get a couple more with either.
Which would help me more or I guess which should I get first? At this point I really only have the cash to get one or the other, unless someone's wants to basically give me either. Haha
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Diverter first...look for a used one. Post wtb here, performance and daves. You might find a used bolt on shoe/plate as well.
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Diverter first...look for a used one. Post wtb here, performance and daves. You might find a used bolt on shoe/plate as well.
Sweet, I did a search and didn't find anything other than a handle. Posted an ad on each forum... Lets see what happens.
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