SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: dvdyzfr6 on May 19, 2013, 09:38:59 AM
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Hey all, I've got a 77 454 thats all stock. I was told that since it's not a roller cam that allot of newer motor oils shouldn't be used, because they no longer include zinc. Does this make sense to anyone out there? Thanks.
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Hey all, I've got a 77 454 thats all stock. I was told that since it's not a roller cam that allot of newer motor oils shouldn't be used, because they no longer include zinc. Does this make sense to anyone out there? Thanks.
Just use standard oil and add some of the break in cam lube from Comp Cams or similar. About 1/3 of a dose should be fine.
Is it a stock "marine" motor? Probably recommend some straight 40 if you can find it.
Unless you want to get exotic.
Amsoil racing oil, Joe Gibbs racing oil..etc.
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Yes it is a stock marine motor. I think amsoil has an oil with zinc additive. Is that what an older motor needs? Also heard Brad Penn oil has something too. Just trying to do a little research before I make a purchase. Thanks for your opinion.
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I've always ran 50wt Valvoline VR1.
-beerjet-
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i run 40 straight racing valvoline
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So any race oil should contain the ZDDP flat tappit motors need? Why run straight 40 or 50 weight? Whats wrong with good old 10w30?
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I've always ran 50wt Valvoline VR1.
-beerjet-
This is what I use
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So any race oil should contain the ZDDP flat tappit motors need? Why run straight 40 or 50 weight? Whats wrong with good old 10w30?
Because that is for a car! you dont drive your boat like a car. boat are beat the s--t out of.
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I use Joe Gibbs hotrod 10w30 oil
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So any race oil should contain the ZDDP flat tappit motors need? Why run straight 40 or 50 weight? Whats wrong with good old 10w30?
It takes all of 10 second for the oil to go to 10wt..... and stay there.
-beerjet-
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I run VR1 50wt
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I also run VR1 20w-50. 8)
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I use Joe Gibbs hotrod 10w30 oil
All I run in Mine also......But then, we're old guys, with old skool style parts, etc. IF it's a flat tappet cam with old heads with no hardened exhaust valve inserts installed for no-lead fuel, (Hydraulic or solid), then the Joe Gibbs or the Royal Purple is the stuff to run (That has the high Zinc and polymer content in it).
Old Leaded gas, GREAT for exhaust valves and seats. Unleaded gas, well, no so good, hence the hardened seat inserts. BUT, the Hot Rod oil, and Royal Purple, can help circumvent that part as well as adding the Zinc loaded components to help with cam/lifter wear and tear that is missing from oils these days due to roller cams, etc, being the norm since the early 90's. ;)
Ray
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Another user of the Valvoline VR-1, anything with high zinc should be just fine though.
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Been running castrol gtx 10-40 in the spring and 20-50 in the middle of summer. depends how cold the water is where u boat at. ;)
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I'm gonna be using amsoil zrod 20-50w
Synthetic oil with tons zddp to protect that flat tappet cam from those a-hole EPA people
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I run Shell Rotella 15-40 in my 472 Ford both ways roller,non roller. It's made to run in diesel and gas engines. My opinion nothing runs more severe than a over the road or equipment engines.They run very close tolerances, tremendous compression causing extreme heat etc If you have broken in the engine properly with break in additives Rotella will be fine. If there are fuel, water, excessive heat, over timing etc contaminates will wash, burn up the oil no matter which one is used. My opinion
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VR 1 and I add either trans fluid or mystery oil (same diff) to every tank of gas...
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I run Shell Rotella 15-40 in my 472 Ford both ways roller,non roller. It's made to run in diesel and gas engines. My opinion nothing runs more severe than a over the road or equipment engines.They run very close tolerances, tremendous compression causing extreme heat etc If you have broken in the engine properly with break in additives Rotella will be fine. If there are fuel, water, excessive heat, over timing etc contaminates will wash, burn up the oil no matter which one is used. My opinion
I prefer Delo 400 for the same reasons (15/40)
jeep- 304, flat tappet
wrecker, 400 sbc, flat tappet
7.3's roller
Cummins, roller
L31 & 454, rollers, in the boats
Dan'l
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Anyone use Brad Penn? The hot rod guys I know swear by it. Would straight 40 or 50 be best here? Water gets up to 80 tops.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Glocker-Oil/Brad-Penn-Penn-Grade-1-High-Performance-Oils/1686175/10002/-1
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Sorry, they dont make straight 40. But they do have 60 or a 20w50
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Poof
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Barry likes the Brad Penn as well. I'm running it in his motor he built. Straight 50wt.
Bill
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Anyone use Brad Penn? The hot rod guys I know swear by it. Would straight 40 or 50 be best here? Water gets up to 80 tops.
http://www.jegs.com/p/Glocker-Oil/Brad-Penn-Penn-Grade-1-High-Performance-Oils/1686175/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/Glocker-Oil/Brad-Penn-Penn-Grade-1-High-Performance-Oils/1686175/10002/-1)
As Bill says, I believe the Brad Penn is very good stuff, just a little harder to get your hands on. It's the same as the old Kendall GT 1 Racing oil (the green stuff). I always ran it in my turbo engine, which I raced and ran for pleasure for 6 years. When it came time to freshen it up to sell, I took the engine apart and nothing was worn out, the bore stayed the same, rings and bearings were in excellent shape, although once the engine was apart it got all new rings and bearings, etc, just so it was all fresh.
Valvoline is much easier to find, but if I had my choice I would run either the Brad Penn or Torco, as I have had great experiences with both. Valvoline turns dark real quickly, but even Valvoline states on their website that the dark color does not affect it's ability to lubricate.
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So would you recommend just straight 50 weight? Im sure I'll go with Brad Penn now after hearing your story. Thanks
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Lucas 50w good prices from
www.buylucasoil.com
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Any performance brand oil such as royal purple, Lucas, or vr1 racing oil 20-50 or 15-40 should be good to go. And for added insurance add a bottle of zinc additive for comp, edelbrock or eos from Chevrolet they sell it at most pep boys
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Any performance brand oil such as royal purple, Lucas, or vr1 racing oil 20-50 or 15-40 should be good to go. And for added insurance add a bottle of zinc additive for comp, edelbrock or eos from Chevrolet they sell it at most pep boys
The "good" oils that you have mentioned, and including others, including Brad Penn and Torco that I mentioned above already have proper amounts of zinc and phosphates, so there is no real good reason to use additional additives.
The additives are fine if someone wanted to choose to run a different oil that did not have the high levels of zinc and phosphates already included in it with a flat tappet cam. There is a point of diminished return in adding more, although it may be ok for the initial camshaft break in.
I have spoken to techs at several of the major oil companies, including Valvoline, Torco and Brad Penn, and have made the Brad Penn my oil of choice based on personal experience with the "old" Kendall GT 1 oil, which was the same as the current green Brad Penn oil. One of my other friends builds lots of sprint car engines, and that's all he will use as well, based on what the bearings, and particularly the rings look like after running.