my exhaust gets hotter than hell...

« **Reply #25 on:** June 11, 2011, 10:37:24 am »

Quote from: SS-201 on June 11, 2011, 02:03:50 am

I run the manifolds on a seperate line and dump the water overboard, this keeps them cool. Also if there are engine overheat problems it dosn't effect the manifolds.

Sounds like a plan. Picked em up already. Tomorrow I'm grabbin some hose and it gets done.

« **Reply #26 on:** June 13, 2011, 03:50:14 pm »

Are your water-jacketed pipes restricted where they dump into the single wall pipe? If so, is/are the water outlet(s) near the top, where the inner pipe ends, and where the exhaust dumps into the single wall pipe? It sounds like your water-jacketed pipes aren't "filling up" to the top of the pipe, and they're hot on the top (and maybe the sides too). Matt

« **Reply #27 on:** June 13, 2011, 03:55:25 pm »

Quote from: MPKardell on June 13, 2011, 03:50:14 pm

Are your water-jacketed pipes restricted where they dump into the single wall pipe? If so, is/are the water outlet(s) near the top, where the inner pipe ends, and where the exhaust dumps into the single wall pipe? It sounds like your water-jacketed pipes aren't "filling up" to the top of the pipe, and they're hot on the top (and maybe the sides too). Matt

you know i bet you just solved my mystery. i bet when the dude who welded em up chopped em off, he left them open when they were originally sealed except for a few spots... so the water isnt getting to those areas at all and just going around the bottom...

damnit im gonna have to chop em up and get em re-welded to restrict the exiting water flow.

« **Reply #28 on:** June 13, 2011, 04:04:04 pm »

Suggestion: Before you hack them up, take one of them off the boat and hook it up to a garden hose. I think you should be able to tell how the water is exiting between the two pipes by how it "shoots" or "gurgles" out the end. Might even be able to tell what side(s) it's coming out. I wouldn't over-do it with the pressure though. And that's something you'll have to be careful with if you do restrict them. You don't want to over-pressurize your manifolds. Matt

« **Reply #29 on:** June 13, 2011, 04:41:23 pm »

Quote from: MPKardell on June 13, 2011, 04:04:04 pm

Suggestion: Before you hack them up, take one of them off the boat and hook it up to a garden hose. I think you should be able to tell how the water is exiting between the two pipes by how it "shoots" or "gurgles" out the end. Might even be able to tell what side(s) it's coming out. I wouldn't over-do it with the pressure though. And that's something you'll have to be careful with if you do restrict them. You don't want to over-pressurize your manifolds. Matt

i remember the exit holes and the guy at archer marine suggesting to grind em smooth to help with reversion if i had a big cam. i remember there was one small hole on the bottom, 2 medium on the sides and one large one at the top... i think when my buddy did these he chopped that section out so they're wide open.

ill take em and chop em at that first angle, weld around and leave a spot at the bottom, and the top.

« **Reply #30 on:** June 14, 2011, 10:32:21 am »

Why is it that some exhaysts sytems use water dumps? My bbc currently has snail and logs and no water dump. I can usually touch the exhaust w/o getting burned. My friend has a bbc in his hallett w/ wather injected Rewarders that use a water dump. I asked him why the water dump was there and he said he didn't know as he bought the boat like that.

« **Reply #31 on:** June 14, 2011, 11:12:10 am »

Quote from: N2GLOCK on June 14, 2011, 10:32:21 am

Why is it that some exhaysts sytems use water dumps? My bbc currently has snail and logs and no water dump. I can usually touch the exhaust w/o getting burned. My friend has a bbc in his hallett w/ wather injected Rewarders that use a water dump. I asked him why the water dump was there and he said he didn't know as he bought the boat like that.

im guessing the water dump is required for motors with water injected headers because you're not dumping your exiting water into the header, you're just spraying a small amount at a certain RPM into it to cool em... the rest of the water has to go somewhere... overboard.

« **Reply #32 on:** June 14, 2011, 09:48:10 pm »

I think it simply because the exhaust tubing isn't water jacketed. Water flowing through that huge 4" tubing with the exhaust isn't going to do anything. Its like a water slide at the water park. It will just run down the bottom of the pipe. Just my .02

« **Reply #33 on:** June 22, 2011, 06:35:13 pm »

So what was the final outcome of your little project. Did you go by your diagram or did you end up installing a tstat? Inquiring minds wanna know

« **Reply #34 on:** June 22, 2011, 08:14:50 pm »

Quote from: N2GLOCK on June 22, 2011, 06:35:13 pm

So what was the final outcome of your little project. Did you go by your diagram or did you end up installing a tstat? Inquiring minds wanna know

Going to do the hot water dump and cold water to risers route... but also have to take risers and pipes to be cut and rewelded to create the chamber that was accidently chopped off the first time.

I usually move quick but my gma died yesterday and I've been focusing my time with my family lately. Sorrry!

« **Reply #35 on:** June 22, 2011, 08:49:03 pm »

Sorry for your loss brother. My thoughts are with you and the family.

« **Reply #36 on:** June 22, 2011, 10:07:40 pm »

Quote from: ka0tyk on June 22, 2011, 08:14:50 pm

Going to do the hot water dump and cold water to risers route... but also have to take risers and pipes to be cut and rewelded to create the chamber that was accidently chopped off the first time.

I usually move quick but my gma died yesterday and I've been focusing my time with my family lately. Sorrry!

Very sorry to hear about your loss.

« **Reply #37 on:** June 22, 2011, 10:39:38 pm »

thanks for the thoughts. its been a long time coming... alzhiemers is a horrible horrible disease.

at any rate ill also be tapping my pump to a 1/2" AN/NPT fitting up from the measly 3/8"...

« **Reply #38 on:** June 23, 2011, 03:18:47 am »

If the engine is runing lean and the timing is high all the water will not cool them down. Richen the jets and retard the timing a tad.

« **Reply #39 on:** June 23, 2011, 07:40:36 am »

Cover the area with header wrap and call it a day....

« **Reply #40 on:** June 23, 2011, 08:20:19 am »

get a pressure regulator WATTS plumbing makes one part number X65B. you can set it at 20psi.
Use it instead of a gate valve. I have one on my boat with water jacketed lighting headers and they stay nice and cool.
Plus you wont have to worry about too much water pressure entering the engine block.
Best ninety dollars ever spent.

« **Reply #41 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:59:58 am »

Dunzo,

Thanks for using an actual regulator and not that POS relief crap.

« **Reply #42 on:** June 23, 2011, 12:09:49 pm »

Quote from: dunzomike on June 23, 2011, 08:20:19 am

get a pressure regulator WATTS plumbing makes one part number X65B. you can set it at 20psi.
Use it instead of a gate valve. I have one on my boat with water jacketed lighting headers and they stay nice and cool.
Plus you wont have to worry about too much water pressure entering the engine block.
Best ninety dollars ever spent.

Maybe you can post a pic of that regulator installed.....?

« **Reply #43 on:** June 23, 2011, 12:52:12 pm »

Quote from: N2GLOCK on June 23, 2011, 12:09:49 pm

Maybe you can post a pic of that regulator installed.....?

Here is the one I would install, it's got a built in Y strainer which you can take apart and clean, this will make your regulator live a long happy life. You can also order it in a variety of pressure ranges, as low as 10 PSI
http://www.zurn.com/operations/wilkins/pdfs/specsheets/REG-500YSBR.pdf

Here is what ^^^ installed
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=6690

Here is what you DON'T want to install
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=803

« **Reply #44 on:** June 23, 2011, 09:57:37 pm »

im kinda leaning towards keeping the gate valve. reason being that i just tapped (thanks pat!) the pump with a larger fitting, and running that to a T. one side is going to go straight to the risers, supplying cold water directly to the exhaust. the other side is going to the gate valve and to the engine. ill use the gate to regulate engine temp, and the rest of the water is gonna take the easy route to the exhaust. i think its a win/win situation.

« **Reply #45 on:** June 23, 2011, 10:13:36 pm »

Quote from: ka0tyk on June 23, 2011, 09:57:37 pm

im kinda leaning towards keeping the gate valve. reason being that i just tapped (thanks pat!) the pump with a larger fitting, and running that to a T. one side is going to go straight to the risers, supplying cold water directly to the exhaust. the other side is going to the gate valve and to the engine. ill use the gate to regulate engine temp, and the rest of the water is gonna take the easy route to the exhaust. i think its a win/win situation.

Sounds like that would work great to me

« **Reply #46 on:** June 24, 2011, 10:01:10 am »

Hey Luckie - do you know if either of the regulators you show allow drain-back through the regulator? Or do they essentially check the backflow? Thanks.

« **Reply #47 on:** June 24, 2011, 03:19:14 pm »

No, they allow drainback once the incoming water pressure is off.

« **Reply #48 on:** June 24, 2011, 03:39:38 pm »

all the boat buisness aside im sorry to hear about your loss! boat buisness aside it sounds like you have a handle on things!

ka0tyk

MPKardell

ka0tyk

MPKardell

ka0tyk

N2GLOCK

ka0tyk

NORDIC454

N2GLOCK

ka0tyk

logans runner

N2GLOCK

ka0tyk

SS-201

Your Mom

dunzomike

Luckie Stiff

N2GLOCK

Luckie Stiff

ka0tyk

Luckie Stiff

MPKardell

Luckie Stiff

Nordie