Dist. to lock or not to lock?

« **on:** March 06, 2008, 07:24:40 PM »

What are you guys doin?

« **Reply #1 on:** March 06, 2008, 07:36:03 PM »

Mag, locked

« **Reply #2 on:** March 06, 2008, 07:56:06 PM »

If you have a cam that idles around 1000 and up, you don't make power until the distributor is fully advanced anyway, so it makes sense to lock it in. The disti will start advancing on its own at idle, and you need it locked.

If you idle below 1000, then you can gain more power by having a curve.

On my cams that are 250 deg and below @ .050, I run timing, above, locked.

Your mileage may vary.

« **Reply #3 on:** March 06, 2008, 09:03:59 PM »

i run mine unlocked because of the compression, and hard to start when hot

« **Reply #4 on:** March 06, 2008, 11:32:12 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on March 06, 2008, 09:03:59 PM

i run mine unlocked because of the compression, and hard to start when hot

Yea, I guess I should say I run a start spark retard with my locked distis...15 degrees. The other trick is to have the starter on a separate switch, that way you get the engine turning over first then hit the ignition

« **Reply #5 on:** March 06, 2008, 11:49:46 PM »

My last engine (melted piston) was locked in at 36 degree's, my next engine will have a 20 degree mech advance (mag).

« **Reply #6 on:** March 07, 2008, 06:34:39 AM »

Quote from: speedymopars on March 06, 2008, 11:32:12 PM

Yea, I guess I should say I run a start spark retard with my locked distis...15 degrees. The other trick is to have the starter on a separate switch, that way you get the engine turning over first then hit the ignition

tell me more about the retard switch, and without it, is it not hard on the starter. the reason i ask is my boat is a bitch to start now when hot and i need a better way. thanx for any info

« **Reply #7 on:** March 07, 2008, 06:38:12 AM »

Most mags are locked out. I also spin the motor to oil pressure, then hit the Mag an boooya!

« **Reply #8 on:** March 07, 2008, 07:44:06 AM »

I guess I'll have to try both and see what happens, Timminator wrote an article in hb, and in it he wrote that a motor would turn over eaiser at say 35* initial than at 15* ,or something like that the #'s may be a couple off. I know that sounds backward but mine turns over fine at 30+. I dunno . I was/am curious what you all were doin.

« **Reply #9 on:** March 07, 2008, 11:13:48 AM »

I'm using the Crane Distributor w/ electric advance (no counter weights) , it has 8 degrees when cranking and as soon as it fires and idles (1000-1100rpms) it advances to 16 with a total of 32 all in at 1600 rpms. I still like to get it cranking and throw the switch.

« **Reply #10 on:** March 07, 2008, 07:10:52 PM »

If you cause the spark to happen before the max compression hits, as is the case with 25-35 degrees of advance, then it will crank easier. 15-25 seems to be the hardest to crank.

With the separate starter switch, you get the engine spinning over, then turn on the ignition. You can do this with a kill switch too, push the kill while the initial crank is happening, then when it gets going, disable the kill.

« **Reply #11 on:** March 10, 2008, 05:13:06 PM »

Quote from: speedymopars on March 06, 2008, 11:32:12 PM

Yea, I guess I should say I run a start spark retard with my locked distis...15 degrees. The other trick is to have the starter on a separate switch, that way you get the engine turning over first then hit the ignition

I really like this idea. I'm wanting to do the same and would love to hear the particulars. I'm running an all MSD system but without the start retard they sell.

« **Reply #12 on:** March 10, 2008, 05:26:32 PM »

Quote from: jrork on March 10, 2008, 05:13:06 PM

I really like this idea. I'm wanting to do the same and would love to hear the particulars. I'm running an all MSD system but without the start retard they sell.

One way to do it would be to hook the white wire on the box up to a switch to ground it out, that kills the spark. Then get it cranking and throw the switch. Kinda like a Magneto. You can also double this as the kill switch.

You can also isolate the ignition wire to a separate switch.

« **Reply #13 on:** March 10, 2008, 08:07:31 PM »

Quote from: Josh@JBP on March 10, 2008, 05:26:32 PM

One way to do it would be to hook the white wire on the box up to a switch to ground it out, that kills the spark. Then get it cranking and throw the switch. Kinda like a Magneto. You can also double this as the kill switch.

You can also isolate the ignition wire to a separate switch.

I'm liking that. Clean simple and bound to help with the advance locked out.

SLCKREG

Dist. to lock or not to lock?

HDriderTH

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

speedymopars

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

Ralph Brunt

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

speedymopars

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

hotrod56cars

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

Ralph Brunt

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

HDriderTH

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

SLCKREG

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

Josh@JBP

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

speedymopars

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

jrork

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

Josh@JBP

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?

jrork

Re: Dist. to lock or not to lock?