SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: santeerob619 on July 19, 2013, 04:38:58 PM
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http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=18374.0 (http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=18374.0)
I think I have found myself a new hull? But I already know my somewhat mild 427 isn't going to be able to turn the built Berkeley pump that comes with it. Not sure on the specs of the pump yet? I'm going to check it out tomorrow. The hull is a clean southwind tunnel and I'm pretty sure the pump is built for high horsepower. I'm looking for some suggestions for building my 427? Crank, pistons, heads, intake? Any proven combos? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Match the impeller to the engine??
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I was hoping to get some suggestions on how to build some reliable HP? What do you think? Good deal for 5k? Comes with pump, droop and diverter.
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Nice looking boat!!! Honestly like someone mentioned just get a different impeller, finish up all the odds and ends, drop in your engine as is and get your a$$ on the water. Shelf the good impeller for now and enjoy. Spend, no pun intended, the winter thinking about how much you want to spend and how far you want to go with it. Looks like you have enough to keep you busy for now. Im sure a stocker type impeller could be found for peanuts compared to building your whole engine around the pump.
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I have a running boat that I use almost every weekend now,at fishers. But I'm still young and I'm not satisfied with a top speed of 55. This new hull is going to be my go fast boat. I'm just trying to decide what to put in it and how to go about it?
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I got her home boys! Now I'm on the lookout for a powerplant! Any leads?
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All kinds of goodies!
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Congrats on picking up that southwind tunnel. Should work well with the right set up. Depending on the impeller cut you can spin the pump no problem. But it also depends on where your motor makes peek hp. My motor makes peek at 6500 and my impeller is a b- and I spin 6300.
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Talk to Chris at b1 racing. He will get ya set up the right way. Myself and 3 other southwind tunnel guys use him. Got my turd running really hard.
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The pump was rebuilt (blueprinted?) By MPD. Which I have heard b1 learned everything from MPD? It looks like it has an inducer and I have a loader, shoe and ride plate for it. Right now I need to get the intake set in the hull and I'm trying to find someone down south here? I have heard a lot of people mention Bostick Racing and I also know of JP Marine in lakeside? Any recommendations? What do they call it when they smooth out all the gaps and make it flush and smooth for flow around the intake? Any particular shop that anyone has had this done with nice clean results?
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I would go with name that people know like bostick. He does good work. A few guys on here know him and can give you a better idea of the quality.
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You know looking closer at that pump set up with the calgo steering irs pretty much crao stuff. If I were you I would sell it to me so you dont have to run that junk.
J/k that shit looks good. But if you want to sell it let me know :-)
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Have you considered an Allison? Looks like it would probably fit! You DID say you wanted to go FAST >:D
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Yea that would be crazy. I'm looking for something with a good mix of horsepower, reliability and longevity. I don't want to have to rebuild it every season.
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Picked up all my polished parts yesterday and today I'm going to pick up my 454. Its out of a 1974 suburban so I'm hoping its a 4 bolt. Anyone know of a way to check without pulling the pan? It was still in the car so I was able to see it run. When I get it home I am going to pull the valve covers to see what heads it has?
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i like the saying...
1. RELIABLE
2. FAST
3. CHEAP
you can only pick two options from the above list. so take your pick and go to work
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Yea that would be crazy. I'm looking for something with a good mix of horsepower, reliability and longevity. I don't want to have to rebuild it every season.
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Run mild HP up (~450-500) against a big impeller (AA).
74 'burb heads probably 781's, if they are 'factory' to the motor. If you have peanut ports, scrap 'em
Dan'l
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They are 781's. I have heard that if you put bigger valves in them they will support 5-600 HP? I'm going to rebuild the top end for sure. Any suggestions on what I should do to the heads and a good intake and cam combo? I have a spread bore holley dp I'm going to use. Not sure of the size(750 I was told). The motor has a street dominator intake now with a small edelbrock on it(too small). I am going to take a lot more pics today after work so I can get more accurate feed back, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
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They are 781's. I have heard that if you put bigger valves in them they will support 5-600 HP? I'm going to rebuild the top end for sure. Any suggestions on what I should do to the heads and a good intake and cam combo? I have a spread bore holley dp I'm going to use. Not sure of the size(750 I was told). The motor has a street dominator intake now with a small edelbrock on it(too small). I am going to take a lot more pics today after work so I can get more accurate feed back, but any suggestions would be appreciated.
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If you put 2.19 or 2.25" valves and have the heads redone, you might as well buy a set of aftermarket alloy heads.
I liked this cam in my 454, 781's (stock with springs) KB pistons- ~9.5:1, headers, Holley 750VS and Vic jr, pulled an "A" to 5500 (loose pump) and 5200 (tight pump) 71.8, gps'd.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-11-324-4/overview/make/chevrolet (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-11-324-4/overview/make/chevrolet)
If I was doing it again, (and did) I'd go roller valvetrain ( have 2 that are roller- 350 and 454, and getting ready to do #'s 3&4, 383 and ZZ4)
I like the intake- I prefer a single plane on a jet too- dual planes are for tow trucks, motorhomes and prop boats.
Go G.M. HEI, less problems than MSD (MoreSpendyDizzy) and Petronix.
Research a proven combo :thumbup:
Dan'l
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Would it be a good idea to get this?
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k11-324-4/overview/make/chevrolet
Or would i be ok just buying a cam and springs for now? I'm going to pull the heads today and clean everything. There was a little bit of sludge when I pulled the valve covers. How should I go about cleaning all that shit out of the block and heads?
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Or how about this deal?
http://www.performanceboats.com/parts-sale/156081-comp-cams-camshaft-lifter-set-%24150-00-a.html
I might jump on it unless its too much cam? I will be running headers for sure. Will I have valve clearance issues?
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Or how about this deal?
http://www.performanceboats.com/parts-sale/156081-comp-cams-camshaft-lifter-set-%24150-00-a.html (http://www.performanceboats.com/parts-sale/156081-comp-cams-camshaft-lifter-set-%24150-00-a.html)
I might jump on it unless its too much cam? I will be running headers for sure. Will I have valve clearance issues?
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That's a lotta cam...
What Impeller is in the pump?
Are you gonna 'refresh' this motor or completely rebuild it?
For a ringed and bearinged motor, with headers-http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-k03072/overview/make/chevrolet
OR-http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-ccrn209/overview/make/chevrolet
That comp cam NEEDS compression, at least 9.5:1+, not 8:1... :(
Always check valve to piston clearance, coil bind, and valve guide to retainer clearance.
Again research a proven combo
Dan'l
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Yea I know don't just buy something just because its a deal and it looks good. I was thinking a valve job, new springs, cam? Would you advise milling the heads to get more compression? Or should I spring for forged pistons? I was trying to avoid getting into the bottom end until winter. I know if I mill the heads I will have fitment and valve clearance issues(right?) Not sure about the impeller but I know it has an inducer. I have pics of the impeller in the beginning of this thread. Its a fresh pump from mpd.
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I wouldn't mill the heads to gain compression - UNLESS you are going to trash them and put new heads on when you do the total rebuild.
Yah, that cam needs at least 9.5-1 to 11.1 compression.
I've never run over the transom headers but with a conventional setup I'd be worried about exhaust reversion and it sucking water at idle - I'm sure there are ways around that.
I agree with the guy that says why not research a proven combo? Guys that do that for a living set up engines in different combinations and record the results from the dyno. You could end up with a motor that easily makes the HP you seek, but at an RPM that isn't useful to you. Some combinations of parts just don't work well together - trial and error is an expensive and lengthily process, especially when the info you seek is probably FREE.
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I think it will clean up nice. Maybe a valve job and springs? And then put it back together and run it.
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How about this combo. It seemed to work fine?
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How about this combo. It seemed to work fine?
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Can ya find parts for it if it breaks at the river?
I guess tried and true is better than a procrap gamble...
Dan'l
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I'll have to research it some more. That's just what was on the motor when I bought it and it seemed to work
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WTB. BBC O/T headers. Anybody know of any for sale?
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Nothing wrong with a 427 I know of a few boats running at 100 with em. Of check to see what impeller is in your pump my buddy's miller is spin is a ab at 7200 rpm and runs hard
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I stiil have the 427 in my Tahiti but its going to stay there for the summer at least. I don't want to have two boats in pieces in the middle of summer so I just found this 454 to get the SWTD going. I might put the 427 in it over winter?
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Cool boat. Try to go with the lightest setup and rigging that you possibly can. I.e. aluminum heads. The SWTD's need some power to run and can be sensitive to weight distribution. Don't cut the pod down.
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Everything that came with it is super light weight already. It was a good running boat at one time with all the rigging I have. I won't be able to do the aluminum head thing this season but over the winter I will be building another motor for it that will definitely have aluminum heads and forged rotating assembly. I need to find a good 4 bolt block to use as my foundation. The 454 I have now is only 2 bolt. I'm just running it for now so I can get the boat wet and do some testing.
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The motor is cleaning up nice. She will be ready for paint tomorrow. Any suggestions on things I should do while I have the pan and heads off?
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Make sure the oil pump pick up is braised to the oil pump. Check for flat lobes on the cam and make sure the freeze plugs are still in there tight
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I was thinking about rebuilding the oil pump? I heard somewhere that you can put a bigger spring in them to make them high volume? How do I check for flat can lobes? And should I replace the freeze plugs with brass? ( could I do that myself?)
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Installed a new high volume oil pump last night and I'm getting the new double roller timing set today. Then everything goes back together, with all new gaskets and gets a fresh coat of paint. I still need to get my pump intake set in the boat. I hope I am able to get it installed right by myself? I found a detailed thread on PB. Anybody have any pointers or know of another thread on scjb?
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New HV oil pump. Double roller timing set and all new gaskets. I'll get the heads back on tomorrow then paint. If I would spend less time drinking beer and smoking cigs I would be done already.
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