SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: 69kona on January 11, 2016, 06:20:44 PM
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Hey guys I put my plate kit on and went to test the fuel solenoid at the plate and got air and then fuel started why wouldn't It get instant fuel ? 6.5 psi fuel pressure ..I just don't want to kill the motor ..
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How much air? Just once?
Sounds like it just purged the trapped air from the line to me. Am I over simplifying it?
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There a good delay then fuel but fuel pressure drops to 3.5 maybe pump is to small it is 110 gph...I can hear my wife in the background your gonna blow it up lol
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GT jets does the jetting I have seem good to start after I fix fuel problem?
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There a good delay then fuel but fuel pressure drops to 3.5 maybe pump is to small it is 110 gph...I can hear my wife in the background your gonna blow it up lol
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. Have you flowed your fuel and checked the fuel pressure? Do you only run one fuel pump? Was the air only once?
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. Have you flowed your fuel and checked the fuel pressure? Do you only run one fuel pump? Was the air only once?
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X2 never trust a fuel pressure gauge. I've had over .75 of a pound difference.
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Well, on the fuel system at least
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/edl-76506?seid=srese1&gclid=COyPqMvGo8oCFVaTfgodnPsJsw
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There a good delay then fuel but fuel pressure drops to 3.5 maybe pump is to small it is 110 gph...I can hear my wife in the background your gonna blow it up lol
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A drop off in fuel pressure is like your heart beating every other time.
I would run a second fuel pump on a surge tank if you want a bulletproof system.
How did you plumb the fuel to the solenoid? Many solenoids require at least a 4psi pressure differential to open 100%.
Do you have a fuel rail or a manifold?
GT
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I'm by no means a nitrous guru "get all my kye Kelly tune ups from The Bostick" but I'll put in my .02 cents, if you are running one fuel pump be sure it can handle both systems. If not recommend running a separate, always flow your nitrous fuel pressure, just cause the gauge says 6.5 doesn't mean it flows 6.5, I also have the same gauge Jake posted above, my nitrous reg is turned up to 8.5 to reach my flowing psi, as far as air in the line it is a new system, and unless you have a air bleed system on your solenoid you will have a lil air for the first couple hits. Which is why before we line up you will here us go make a few really short burst to prime the entire system before we go out and line up. And always be sure to check for leaks, don't be scared to flow nitrous fuel pressure often, and always make sure your ignition system is doing what you want it to do. I've always been a boosted guy, switch to nitrous last year and don't regret it one bit.
Gimme that BECKY!
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. Have you flowed your fuel and checked the fuel pressure? Do you only run one fuel pump? Was the air only once?
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Have not flowed tested fuel pump .
Yes only one pump and I'm getting air every time I activate the fuel solenoid . What should ideal pressure be ?when flow testing
Thank u
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I'm by no means a nitrous guru "get all my kye Kelly tune ups from The Bostick" but I'll put in my .02 cents, if you are running one fuel pump be sure it can handle both systems. If not recommend running a separate, always flow your nitrous fuel pressure, just cause the gauge says 6.5 doesn't mean it flows 6.5, I also have the same gauge Jake posted above, my nitrous reg is turned up to 8.5 to reach my flowing psi, as far as air in the line it is a new system, and unless you have a air bleed system on your solenoid you will have a lil air for the first couple hits. Which is why before we line up you will here us go make a few really short burst to prime the entire system before we go out and line up. And always be sure to check for leaks, don't be scared to flow nitrous fuel pressure often, and always make sure your ignition system is doing what you want it to do. I've always been a boosted guy, switch to nitrous last year and don't regret it one bit.
Gimme that BECKY!
Thank u just read this gives me some good info on flow pressure on the fuel pump ... I'm scared to pop this thing on the first run ..so I be picking your guys
" brains " thanks for the info
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Got a free full mother bottle lol . Tell my wife I have to use it before it gos bad..lol
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I've read a lot on plate system but definitely a newbie when it comes to nitrous
I have the Nos activated on a WOT switch and I put a purge for the Nos solenoid . With that said how do u purge the fuel side ?
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This will help save your engine if used correctly
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Have not flowed tested fuel pump .
Yes only one pump and I'm getting air every time I activate the fuel solenoid . What should ideal pressure be ?when flow testing
Thank u
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. I'm not sure what tune you are looking for. I'm running 6.75 psi on the nos side. If you arm the nos you will see 9.5 psi on the gauge. It all depends on the jet you are flowing it through. I run a mechanical pump to the motor at 6.5 psi and the nos is in an electric pump. If you getting air every time it means you have a problem. Not sure what it is for sure either bleeding down our sucking air. The pump your using now I would not use for both systems just my opinion. Where are you located? Maybe we could offer some help. What size shot you trying to run? Most guys do not hand out much help with nos because we will be the first one blamed when the stock bottom end let goes. Or loss of compression due to new windows in your Pistons don't forget my favorite custom new longer rods enjoy. If done right it is real safe and real fun. Chase Online
Identification Code:47517935
Enter online at prompt or in password field at logon
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What he said ^^^ :-)
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Ok today I flow test the fuel pump ... The Bottom end is balanced with has forged Pistons ... I want to get fuel situation taken care of by this weekend ...
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I'll take full responsibility if it blows up and not point any fingers ... Lol Is any one gonna be at Elsinore this weekend ?
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Having just setup my nitrous system, i have a few pointers for you. Take them with a grain of salt
1. Are you running a mechanical or electric fuel pump?
2. What is your jetting, i missed it. FYI my 150 is 63n 57fuel but im not 100% sure i can double check if you would like
3. It is always recommended to start at the smalles nitrous shot you have jetting for. this minimizes damage if something is off
4. FLOW YOUR FUEL SIDE
5. Jet RICH on fuel first
6. The first time you hit it, only hit it for abou 1-3 seconds. Then let off, pull plugs and make sure everthing looks okay
7. Reatrd timing while on the bottle
Im running approx 400 hp on motor, then the 150 shot on top. Im running a 150gph Aeromotive pump. My gauge reads about 8psi at the fuel solenoid, but dennis and i flowed it at 6.5psi. When i hit the button, i can hear it make the pump work harder. But it is more than enough in my case. I also have 0 delay in fuel delivery after i hit the button, once i bled the lines. I also have a Wideband air fuel gauge, my tuneup is still rich (rich=safe to a point) while on the bottle im in the 11.2 range. Ill eventually lean this down a little bit.
I've never setup a system using a mechanical pump, do the lines drain down after you shut the engine off? If so, and you are running a mechanical pump this may be why you have air everytime. If so. I would recommend either going to a dedicated electric pump, or if you must run the mechanical pump. Bump the button a few times with the nitrous bottle OFF until you can feel the fuel come in (engine will bog from the extra fuel)
If you have any questions feel free to ask
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Electric fuel pump 110 gph and .047 nos jet and .053 fuel jet . Starting out at 100hp eventually move up to 150
If u can see what jetting your running?
Seems the fuel pump I have is not keeping up ..
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Thank u Steves86ta
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how much power are you making on motor?
sounds like to me you have a fuel delivery issue. idk if 110 gph will be enough
What size fuel lines? What size fuel pickups? Bottom feed or top feed?
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Good Info from everyone! So what's a good baseline tune for a 100hp ?
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You should be close with what you have. Might want a smaller fuel jet but that should be safe
Here's a site to help
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
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Top feed tanks with -6 line ... An honest 375 to 400 hp
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Should i change the tank pickups and
Put a bung at the bottom of tank ?
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You should be close with what you have. Might want a smaller fuel jet but that should be safe
Here's a site to help
http://www.robietherobot.com/NitrousJetCalculator.htm
That's bad ass calculator site ..thanks
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Don't know if anyone has said this but rule of thub, retard the timing 2 degrees for every 50 horsepower of nitrous.
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I dont know if your setup is fine or not. But ill share my experiences and why i decided to go bottom feed
My boat has not run right from day one sometimes it was fine, other times it would fall on its face and other weird issues. Finally i started to look into the fuel system more closely. My boat originally had 1/4" pipe pickup tubes and were top feed, with -8an fittings on them. I ran these to valves then to the pump.
After i burned up two pumps, and finally installed a fuel pressure gauge at the dash i learned that i was cavitating the pump. Because of the pickups. Problem persisted when i was below half of a tank.
Finally i decided to put -10 bungs in the bottom of the tank, then run that to my pump. My fuel pressure is much more stable now and consistent. Could be related to your fuel draining back.
I dont know, but i would make sure everytyhing is perfect before spraying it.
My setup is -10 bungs from the bottom of the tanks, to 1/2" pipe valves to a -10 Y fitting to the fuel pump, from the fuel pump its -8 to a -8 Y fitting, then from the fitting its -8 to my Carb pressure regulator and -4 to the Nitrous pressure regulator, -6 to the carb from the regulator, -4 to the solenoid.
my fuel pressure is alway perfect and have not had any issues since going bottom feed
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Steves86ta what kind of rpm increase did u see with your tune?
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Steves86ta what kind of rpm increase did u see with your tune?
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im getting close to 1300 rpm with a 150
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How long are the lines from the solenoid to the plate?
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Ok I put a 140 gph pump now I'm get good fuel pressure and no delay in fuel delivery 😀
So now what do I need to get to retard my ignition I have is a 6al MSD box what should I get for a timing box that will retard my timing ...
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How long are the lines from the solenoid to the plate?
10inchs from solenoid to base plate
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Ok I put a 140 gph pump now I'm get good fuel pressure and no delay in fuel delivery 😀
So now what do I need to get to retard my ignition I have is a 6al MSD box what should I get for a timing box that will retard my timing ...
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i would just re-time it and drop 6 degrees out but you can also go with a box like this
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8680?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-po7c-3r3ksx5d7-riJASc8G2oRJffFcmWEOVMmZyKEaAvN38P8HAQ (http://www.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8680?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiA5dK0BRCr49qDzILe74UBEiQA_6gA-po7c-3r3ksx5d7-riJASc8G2oRJffFcmWEOVMmZyKEaAvN38P8HAQ)
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Right now I'm at 32* at 3k so I need to be around 26 degrees ? Sorry so many questions ...
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Right now I'm at 32* at 3k so I need to be around 26 degrees ? Sorry so many questions ...
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26 should be safe for you. Not optimal, but safe
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Ok anything else i may be overlooking ?
Lol . I know the motor will handle it but I'm scared to do some wrong
Timing 26*
Fuel pressure 6.5 psi
Bottle pressure ?
??
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Ok anything else i may be overlooking ?
Lol . I know the motor will handle it but I'm scared to do some wrong
Timing 26*
Fuel pressure 6.5 psi
Bottle pressure ?
??
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shoot to get 900 psi of bottle pressure. You will need to heat the bottle somehow to get to the 900 mark.
I do not have a heater in my boat, and i can usually maintain 800 psi or so. Atleast for a pass or two
HEres what i do when its cold like it is right now
Ill pull the bottle out the night before and leave it in the house at night. When i get up to shower, it goes in the shower with me (weird i know) once im done showering. Ill leave it in the shower and crank up the hot water.
By the time im dressed the bottle is usually close to 100 degrees (98 this last saturday) Ill put it in the truck and keep the heater on the whole way to the lake (abotu an hour for me) and its usually still 90 degrees or so. Gives me anywhere from 800-950 psi. Nitrous Oxide is a gas, but once it is pressurized above 750 it turns into a liquid and this is what you want. But shoot for 900 PSI thats what all your jetting is usually at
Heres a link to a chart that will give you an idea of pressure to temperature. I verify temperature with an IR Temp gun
http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/16/ask-away-optimizing-nitrous-system-proper-bottle-pressure/ (http://www.onallcylinders.com/2015/01/16/ask-away-optimizing-nitrous-system-proper-bottle-pressure/)
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Are u gonna be at Elsinore this weekend?
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Are u gonna be at Elsinore this weekend?
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trying to lol
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In a race car we test the Nitrous while parked. Rev engine up about 3k rpm and hit the micro switch. A exspierenced nitrous guy can tell if it's lean or rich by the way the engine revs up. Slow is rich, real fast is lean and I'm the middle is a base line. Reading the plugs is key. I use a ear scope deal I bought from walmart. Has a light and all lol. Like 20.00
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Ohhh not sure it be a good idea in a boat being the Jet is hooked up still.
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i LOVE my wideband. Ive never been good at reading plugs and probably never will be. The wideband tells me exactly whats goin on
But when i do check plugs. I always cut the threads off and look at all the porcelain.
Also one other thing that came to mind. Are you running projected tip plugs? Dont!
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So what plugs to run ...
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I dint really know. Google should help
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Just curious maybe i missed it.. what engine is this?? 26 degrees of total timing sounds like alot of retard for a 100 shot.. imho..
Your Friendly local v-drive owner
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Just curious maybe i missed it.. what engine is this?? 26 degrees of total timing sounds like alot of retard for a 100 shot.. imho..
Your Friendly local v-drive owner
I agree. But it's safe until he knows evening is running right
For example I'm at 38 degrees na and 34 on bottle
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I agree. But it's safe until he knows evening is running right
For example I'm at 38 degrees na and 34 on bottle
fair enough,,better to error on the safe side then the meltdown side.. i ran 36 in my old 496 street car, and 30 when i wacked it with 200...
Your Friendly local v-drive owner
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For a 100 shot I would pull 4 degrees total on the shot.
As for an ignition box, I would go with the digital 6. Way better than having to add a 200 dollar retard box and your already 2/3 of the way to a digital 6 price wise.
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For a 100 shot I would pull 4 degrees total on the shot.
As for an ignition box, I would go with the digital 6. Way better than having to add a 200 dollar retard box and your already 2/3 of the way to a digital 6 price wise.
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x2
Your Friendly local v-drive owner
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X3
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Ok anything else i may be overlooking ?
Lol . I know the motor will handle it but I'm scared to do some wrong
Timing 26*
Fuel pressure 6.5 psi
Bottle pressure ?
??
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. I would not set it up like that. Run a retard box set to 2 degrees per 50 hp. Have you addressed type fuel or plugs? This is not as easy as it sound and that's why nos get a bad wrap for blowing up motors. If you are going to use one pump you will still need a y with to regulators. # 951 741-8790 if needed.
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Fuck it! !! Dry 250 go big or go home!
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How about this for timing retard ?
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There's one on jet boat freaks on Facebook for 50
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How about this for timing retard ?
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Send it right back to MSD for an inspection. Worth every penny.
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How about this for timing retard ?
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Used electronics is risky at best. however if that's what you need to do I agree with Jake. Is a 100 shot all you are planning on running or is that a starting point? You could look on this site the guys that run NOS and or successful all have pretty much the same type setup. The fuel system is where a few part ways 1 or two pumps and some have a enrichment tank. Getting the tank pressure just right does not mean as much for us river racers but if you have to run a number it means alot. Most of us on the river are trying to keep it cool so we keep our solenoids intack. Too much pressure and you will lock up some solenoids. I will walk you through my setup if it will help you in any way. motor info 496 13 to 1 38 degrees timing locked out it runs on VP 110 off the bottle with NGK R5671A-10 plugs. I run a 300 shot I pull 15 degrees timing out and run VP c 16 fuel the fuel is ran through both of my fuel systems. I have a holley blue that feeds the NOS solenoid and a 190gpm mechanical that feeds the carb both on separate regulators. We flow the fuel regularly for they do move watch the heat and liquid filled gauges. Be Careful and have fun if you feel you need help contact us
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Just to throw it out there, overly retarded timing can burn stuff up too. Not to mention excessive exhaust heat.
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Just to throw it out there, overly retarded timing can burn stuff up too. Not to mention excessive exhaust heat.
well said sir!!
Your Friendly local v-drive owner
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Are u gonna be at Elsinore this weekend?
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Jim and I will be. Stop by the blue gullwing if you have any other questions or need any ideas. And a FYI Jim and I have completely different set ups so you can see both sides. I run a magnafuel 500 and run nitrous and motor off one pump. And also run air bleeds so you can get the idea of those as well. If you need any other help you can DM me and I'll give you my number. Last time I put my number up I got a picture of someone that just wiped there a$$ and said this is what I think about your top ten deal. Lol definitely have some comedians on here 😂
Gimme that BECKY!
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Jim and I will be. Stop by the blue gullwing if you have any other questions or need any ideas. And a FYI Jim and I have completely different set ups so you can see both sides. I run a magnafuel 500 and run nitrous and motor off one pump. And also run air bleeds so you can get the idea of those as well. If you need any other help you can DM me and I'll give you my number. Last time I put my number up I got a picture of someone that just wiped there a$$ and said this is what I think about your top ten deal. Lol definitely have some comedians on here 😂
Gimme that BECKY!
[/quote
Way cool hella appreciated it ... I'll come by and say hi Saturday
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I ordered that timing retard box so maybe it will get here by this weekend ..
and some jets to tune system .
Maybe a test run Saturday ?
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I ordered that timing retard box so maybe it will get here by this weekend ..
and some jets to tune system .
Maybe a test run Saturday ?
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good deal
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Do I need a different spark plugs ?so I can get some . Be reading some people cut the top strap back alittle . Just trying to get everything in order to tune this pig lol
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Do I need a different spark plugs ?so I can get some . Be reading some people cut the top strap back alittle . Just trying to get everything in order to tune this pig lol
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. Depends on shot size
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100shot to start
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100shot to start
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your plugs will be fine
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Is this what I'm after for a non projected
Plug?
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It's what I run. Br6ef but that's an ls part number
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Run -8 not -10
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What I use
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-8 👍🏻
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What I use
yes and the are good for a 150 shot. Remember to change them when you go up in shot size.
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I used to use the autolite plugs. I think pn 3932
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Jim, are you swapping plugs nitrous vs motor only?
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Jim, are you swapping plugs nitrous vs motor only?
. Yes I change between-8 no nos and -9 below 300 shot -10 over 300 shot
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Good 2 know
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Good 2 know
. Yep sure is important shit.
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True that
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Jim do you run a fogger or a plate?
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Jim do you run a fogger or a plate?
. I run a plate.
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Me too. Speedtech diffuser deal
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Got my timing control put in
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Nice job getting closer
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Thanks ! Few more things to finish ..then test run time
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Ohhhh so true. LOL
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Lmao ....
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I'm wound in if I need a bottle pressure gauge ? Is this a must?
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Yes pretty much.
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47/53?!?! What decade did you get you nitrous kit/tune-up from? A word of advice... Do not run that... Chances are pretty good that is a 1980(something) nos tuneup that pulls minimal timing and super low fuel pressure.
Personally... At least start squared up on the jetting (which will still be pretty damn rich) and 6psi flowing fuel pressure. More than likely you'll be about 5-10 jets bigger on the nitrous side when tuned up properly.
Bail the wot switch... Go with a button on the wheel... That way you can at least bump it to purge the fuel side since you are not running a bleed off line. Secondly... Mechanical pump for both, though I have done it, is really not the best way to get the job done... Unless you are running a pretty badass mechanical pump with large lines and going to two seperate regulators... And still only running a smaller nitrous tune... Like under 200.
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47/53 base line tune .. Thanks for advice
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47/53 base line tune .. Thanks for advice
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What plate do you have again?
And I'd take six-oh-nine's advice. He seriously knows what he's talking about... you may or may not have heard of "the bostick" before?
The OLD NOS jetting guidelines were fatter on the fuel side. All of the new stuff is squared up.
What plate do you have? I'll dig through my manuals
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I have a electric fuel pump and two separate regulators for carb and nos soleniod ....
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Older plate
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Older plate
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Older cheater plate? Super power shot plate?
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What plate do you have again?
And I'd take six-oh-nine's advice. He seriously knows what he's talking about... you may or may not have heard of "the bostick" before?
The OLD NOS jetting guidelines were fatter on the fuel side. All of the new stuff is squared up.
What plate do you have? I'll dig through my manuals
Oh that dude! Lol ..yeah I heard of him ..Opps he knows his shit.
How do I tell what plate it is ?
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I believe it's a cheater plate
Can u tell by how many holes?
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Oh that dude! Lol ..yeah I heard of him ..Opps he knows his shit.
How do I tell what plate it is ?
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yeah six-oh-nine is the "bostick" lol
Let me see what i cna find
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powershot has 8 nitrous holes, cheater has 16 nitrous holes, bigshot has 32 holes
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Mine has 8 nitrous holes
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Mine has 8 nitrous holes
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sounds like apowershot plate. standby
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Okay, so i could be wrong here. And proabbly am
But i did some research. It sounds like the "Powershot" plate is pre-set to 125 hp. Non adjustable. I guess its already drilled to flow that much and you dont need jets.
PLEASE CALL HOLLEY AND VERIFY THE ABOVE INFORMATION
But if thats true, then you're kind of stuck. I looked at your picture and it does look like an old powershot system.
Further, looking at the manual for a powershot system. It does not list any jetting tables, or even jetting included with the kit.
So im assuming the above is correct.
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RonBeaty said:
10-11-2010 02:01 PM
Default
a cheater plate has 8 holes in each spray bar and uses a 16000-1-snos Nitrous solenoid
a big shot plate has 17 holes in each spray bar and uses a 16045-1-snos Nitrous solenoid
This is what I found because I can put jets on my kit but on a powershot u can't ..know I'm confused 😕lol
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RonBeaty said:
10-11-2010 02:01 PM
Default
a cheater plate has 8 holes in each spray bar and uses a 16000-1-snos Nitrous solenoid
a big shot plate has 17 holes in each spray bar and uses a 16045-1-snos Nitrous solenoid
This is what I found because I can put jets on my kit but on a powershot u can't ..know I'm confused 😕lol
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Like i said, i could be wrong.
I would recommend calling Holley and seeing exactly what you have. Over the years there may be re-designs etc.
Call them up they will tell you exactly what you have. I know my cheater plate has 16n16f holes. But mine is brand new and a new design.
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I called Holley confirmed its a older Cheater plate and was told to use the old jet chart..should I get a newer plate?
Just wondering ?
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I called Holley confirmed its a older Cheater plate and was told to use the old jet chart..should I get a newer plate?
Just wondering ?
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Thats completely up to you...
The newer one atomizes better. Ive seen where the older ones leak where the tubes go into the plate if that makes sense
but it should be fine for you.
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Cool I appreciate your input and help . , I thinking of getting a newer plate
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Cool I appreciate your input and help . , I thinking of getting a newer plate
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no problem. Thats one of the reasons when i bought my kit i just went new. So everything was new and no surprises.
you can always send your plate and noids to NX, NS or Induction Solutions. Have it flowed/tested and they will send you the jets/tuneups and make sure everything is 100%
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Yeah that might have to happen . I don't want to hurt my motor because of my mistake ...
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Yeah that might have to happen . I don't want to hurt my motor because of my mistake ...
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when i looked into it, it was like 400 to send it in. They flow it and get you i think 4 tuneups (induction solutions)
an entire new system from nos is 633.00 and that includes a bottle
jsut food for thought. I truthfully wanted the Nitrous Outlet Stigner system but it was more money
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Do u think I should off the kit I have ...or? I have no money in what kit I have now lol..went through father in laws nitrous stuff !
Got two of these bottles full ..😋
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Do u think I should off the kit I have ...or? I have no money in what kit I have now lol..went through father in laws nitrous stuff !
Got two of these bottles full ..😋
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Give one of the nitrous places a call, and see what they charge to go through it. If its only a couple hundred bucks, its worth it
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Years ago I had one of those 8 hoke per bar plates and I called and got a 32 hole per bar plate and jets for 1-2 hundred and used the same solenoids and WOW it was bad Ass
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Ohhhh and same tune up, 150 jets and all. From one plate to the new was holly shit a difference.
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Is this a good deal current generation cheater plate..
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That's a good deal but idk I'd it's current generation or not
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32 holes in spray bars from what the ad says ...
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32 holes in spray bars from what the ad says ...
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yeah looks liek a good deal. I think you should need to up your solenoid size if you want to spray a 150 or higher.
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Well I tested it at Avi and she's alittle rich in the tune .. Were should I start to lean it jets or fuel pressure . There wasn't any detonation . It was cool to feel it hit 😀 but I need to tune it better . The plugs were black at the rim and porcelain was tan ... Ideas?
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Well I tested it at Avi and she's alittle rich in the tune .. Were should I start to lean it jets or fuel pressure . There wasn't any detonation . It was cool to feel it hit 😀 but I need to tune it better . The plugs were black at the rim and porcelain was tan ... Ideas?
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what's your fuel psi flowing?
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I should be at the avi next weekend doing some testing
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Ok I'm gonna be out here next week to maybe you can give me a hand tuning this pig. Lol. Much appreciated
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Ok I'm gonna be out here next week to maybe you can give me a hand tuning this pig. Lol. Much appreciated
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Idk how much help I can be. I HATE carburetors, I HATE tuning and I suck at it.
My only saving grace on my boat is my wideband lol.
I also kinda suck at reading plugs. But I'll be happy to try and help if I make it out.
I saw your wife's post. Told her to let me know if you guys make it out.
If you prefer you can text me at 909-809-6358
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Haha
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Lol
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One trick I used on my Truck motor was to hook up clear plastic line to the hose end and run it to a VP fuel can for fuel collection. When I ran the fuel pump with 12 volts and opened the fuel solenoid for a spray I saw bubbles in the fuel while the fuel was traveling to the collection jug. Mind you I did have a loop in the line to assist with purging the air out as the fuel flowed through. Seeing the air bubbles meant the fuel pump was cavitating in the fuel tank. I dropped the tank, sure enough, the pump was moving the fuel out of the factory built in fuel reservoir that the pump sits inside when installed into the tank faster that the return line and small fill hole could allow fuel to fill it up and submerge the pump.
So I cut more fill holes into the reservoir and cut down the height of the reservoir. Since that mod, after checking, there have been no more bubbles are lean readings from the Wide-band O2 gauge. Hope that helps a bit...
Shawn