Sounds like your on the right track, pull that cylinder deal you talk about out and replaces it with the spring a stainless ball that should go in there. Should be good to go,when your RPM'S come up to about 1,500 are so check to see if your getting water back to the headers.

thanks boost are there any down falls to this? like do i need a valve or presure gage and someone once said something about the spring failing,wut would happen if the spring failed?are you guys done until the tom papp deal or you guys still been hittin the lakes?

Ask Marc about spring failure lets say it goes bad you'll have to much water going in the motor at lower RPM range, at lower RPMS you could see water in the oil if spring failed, I heard of head gaskets blowing etc, hope this helps.I run a gutted T-VALVE with a manual control up front works fine for me,ill post a pic.

Oh damn that does not sound fun. Do it right lupo.

Your over thinking it....the valve is to shut the water off to the pipes in idling situations or if you wanna haul ass and sound good doing it....then you can turn the water on to dampen the noise and keep the water popo's happy....the water cooling your pipes is not so much...its only there cause its the law....so in all reality besides the basset t you can use a manual control and you can tell the water when to turn off and on...where the basset t relies on water pressure to open and close

You can leave it there kind of a double deal, but if you forget to turn the water on at the valve you can blue your headers...most people will pull the t apart and remove the ball and spring...then just use the valve

thanks guys i got this under control now