SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Flusher on June 15, 2015, 04:50:00 PM
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What weight oil do you run and why?
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I run valvoline vr1 50 and that's what Bostick told me to run in it
Sent from my garage drinking a cold PBR
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I run valvoline vr1 50 and that's what Bostick told me to run in it
Thank you for the reply. vr1 50 seems to be the current popular choice. In fact, I just stocked up.
My questions are really, what are your reasons for a straight weight vs. a multi-viscosity? And, what is viscosity based on: clearance, RPM, load, temperature, etc.?
Thanks,
Joe
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i run VR1 40 but i bought VR1 50 cause it went on sale!!!! Now i run straight weight because it was always thicker and was always told it does not break down like multi weight oil. may not be true but when your dad pounds stuff like that in your head you believe it to be true . so for anything i have ever hotrodded or raced it was alway VR1 straight weight!
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20-50 Lucas racing oil. It's just what we have used for years.
Sent from McIntyre park
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Delo 400 15W40
Why?
Full roller motors:
'96 PSD 7.3, 500+K, Delo
'95 PSD 7.3, 280K, Delo
'99 350 SBC, 325 hp, 600+ hrs, Delo (Berk)
'79 454 BBC, 500+ hp 400+ hrs, Delo (Berk)
That's just in my yard.
Why would I use any thing else?
Dan'l
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Delo 400 15W40
Why?
Full roller motors:
'96 PSD 7.3, 500+K, Delo
'95 PSD 7.3, 280K, Delo
'99 350 SBC, 325 hp, 600+ hrs, Delo (Berk)
'79 454 BBC, 500+ hp 400+ hrs, Delo (Berk)
That's just in my yard.
Why would I use any thing else?
Dan'l
I don't know. I have run the Delo before without issue.
I keep hearing the same time, vr1 50, so I broke down and bought a few cases. Probably won't use it this season, but what's another year sitting on my shelf compared to millions of years in the earth?
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I use VR1 50 in all the test reports it is at the top. It has the right amount of zinc we need and will not break the bank. Most of the test reports have it in the top five.
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I use VR1 50 in all the test reports it is at the top. It has the right amount of zinc we need and will not break the bank. Most of the test reports have it in the top five.
Why not vr1 20-50?
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I run that as well if I can't get straight 50. They say straight is better I have never argued the statement.
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I'm running Brad Penn 50wt . Barry said it was some good stuff.. :thumbup:
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I'm running Brad Penn 50wt . Barry said it was some good stuff.. :thumbup:
Ran Brad Penn once Kendall was purchased by Valvoline. Not easily obtained though. Maybe I should look into buying a drum.
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20-50 Lucas racing oil. It's just what we have used for years.
Sent from McIntyre park
I cleaned out every last quart that Steve had at Westech, about a year ago. Still have about a case left. My shop is getting to look like an auto parts store.
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They say straight is better I have never argued the statement.
Indeed! Just check out the Top 25 SCJB Wifes
http://www.socaljetboats.com/index.php?topic=23721.0
thread.
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lol.....yes sir >:D
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Ran Brad Penn once Kendall was purchased by Valvoline. Not easily obtained though. Maybe I should look into buying a drum.
Yeah, I had to order Brad Penn 50wt from Amazon.. not cheap, but from what I've read up on, it's some pretty damn good oil and it's high in Zinc.
B
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VR1 20/50 for years with 2 changes per season.
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Okay this makes me want to ask...
Why not a synthetic? In everything i have i've always ran Mobil1. Typically 5w-30 because that was what was suggested by the manufacturer.
Im asking because i have 2 cases of mobil 1 at home, 5w-20 that thanks to the Direct injection engines in both my truck and my parents cars. I have no use for it.
I'm considering using it to break in the 5.3 im building (again) and then draining it and going with something thicker. Like a 15-40 or 20-50 or 50wt.
Any reason not to run a Synthetic? Im not worried about zinc, as the LS engines are full roller. Not to worried abotu the cam flattening
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Typically newer vehicles have tighter clearances an need a thinner oil (My Titan 5-30w)...A jet boat motor built for jet boat application will have a more loose tolerance. Full roller is fine with synthetic but for flat tappet, conventional zinc is my choice.
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Okay this makes me want to ask...
Why not a synthetic? In everything i have i've always ran Mobil1. Typically 5w-30 because that was what was suggested by the manufacturer.
Im asking because i have 2 cases of mobil 1 at home, 5w-20 that thanks to the Direct injection engines in both my truck and my parents cars. I have no use for it.
I'm considering using it to break in the 5.3 im building (again) and then draining it and going with something thicker. Like a 15-40 or 20-50 or 50wt.
Any reason not to run a Synthetic? Im not worried about zinc, as the LS engines are full roller. Not to worried abotu the cam flattening
I've seen you 'break-in' a motor, you need 85w-140 with STP (Stay Together Please) :thumbup:
On a full roller motor, Id go ~5 hrs and change it, but not with the 5w-20, unless its only on the trailer, not @ 6K.
Nascar does 500+ miles @ 9000+ RPM, on 0w-20? I don't have their budget for motor$...
I think 5w-20 is too thin for 6000 rpm.
Synthetic oil 'seeped' from the 1pc. rear main with Royal Purple, went to Delo 400, no more leak...
Dan'l
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I've seen you 'break-in' a motor, you need 85w-140 with STP (Stay Together Please) :thumbup:
On a full roller motor, Id go ~5 hrs and change it, but not with the 5w-20, unless its only on the trailer, not @ 6K.
Nascar does 500+ miles @ 9000+ RPM, on 0w-20? I don't have their budget for motor$...
I think 5w-20 is too thin for 6000 rpm.
Synthetic oil 'seeped' from the 1pc. rear main with Royal Purple, went to Delo 400, no more leak...
Dan'l
Hah.. Thanks Daniel
Setting this one up looser and will run thicker oil.
reflecting and from what the parts tell us. im 99.99% positive the hydrolocking caused most if not all of it.
I figure, run the 5-20 just on the trailer for the initial fire, then put something thicker in
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My wife Charla steeling the wheel.
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Oops wrong post lol
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Thank you for the reply. vr1 50 seems to be the current popular choice. In fact, I just stocked up.
My questions are really, what are your reasons for a straight weight vs. a multi-viscosity? And, what is viscosity based on: clearance, RPM, load, temperature, etc.?
Thanks,
Joe
20/50... not straight 50.
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I use VR1 50 in all the test reports it is at the top. It has the right amount of zinc we need and will not break the bank. Most of the test reports have it in the top five.
Sent from my iPhone using SoCal Jet Boats
20/50... not 50.
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20-50 Lucas racing oil. It's just what we have used for years.
Sent from McIntyre park
:thumbup:
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VR1 20/50 for years with 2 changes per season.
:thumbup:
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20/50... not straight 50.
Hi Bostick,
Why do you like the multi over the straight?
Thanks for the reply.
Joe
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Personally... I really like the Joe Gibbs 15/50 XP4... (BR30 for break-in) really good stuff, about the same price range as the Valvoline (when not on sale), and what I use in all the engines we break-in and dyno... the stuff has crazy amount of additives and what sold me was the fact that even after running the holy living piss out of my gullwing for over 130 miles in a day ar 4k rpm... the oil pressure was still great, oil temp stable, and when I drained it, it still was in good shape and still a bitch to clean off my hands.
BUT...
I've had good luck with:
Brad Penn (though not super conveniant to obtain, I like it as much as the Joe Gibbs as far as conventional oils go and put it in as a tie for #1)
Lucas Racing (Pretty good stuff, takes a beating pretty good and maintains oil pressure. The 10-30 synthetic is a bit spendy, but on the dyno, back-to-back pulls was worth 12hp over the Valvoline and held up much better)
Valvoline VR1 20/50 (fairly inexpensive, easy to get, will work fine, but I still like to use additive with it, especially during cam break-in)
My favorite line of all time concerning oil is: "Well... for cam break-in, I used the cheapest oil I could find since I was gonna change it right away... that is what my engine builder told me to do."... said NO engine builder EVER!
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Hi Bostick,
Why do you like the multi over the straight?
Thanks for the reply.
Joe
At start-up and while the engine is building heat, the lower intial viscosity of the multi-weight will flow much quicker and get where it needs to go much sooner than a straight 50 wt. Then once it gets a bit of heat in it, you still have the viscosity of the heavier weight. It will blow people's mind just how long it takes for oil to get all the way to the rockers when the motor is stone cold and been sitting, even with multi weight... straight 50 is even worse. Unless you're running a lot of bearing clearance, it just is not needed to run such a heavy straight weight oil... most of the stuff I build, I run the clearances in such that with 15/50 or 20/50 it will make about 50psi at idle and 65-75 running hot... to me, any more than that is just robbing power and wearing out the dist gear.
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Lucas Racing (Pretty good stuff, takes a beating pretty good and maintains oil pressure. The 10-30 synthetic is a bit spendy, but on the dyno, back-to-back pulls was worth 12hp over the Valvoline and held up much better)
Thank you again for the reply.
I have read some literature pertaining to lubricating plain bearings in machinery. I have not yet been able to fully digest the material, nor have I been able to dedicate sufficient time to the topic.
If I am understanding it correctly, a higher RPM requires or dictates a lighter weight oil. Any thoughts here?
Do you clearance your engines differently based on intended oil viscosity, meaning one specific build will use only 10/30 vs. another that will use only 15(20)/50?
Thanks again,
Joe
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Personally... I really like the Joe Gibbs 15/50 XP4... (BR30 for break-in) really good stuff, about the same price range as the Valvoline (when not on sale), and what I use in all the engines we break-in and dyno... the stuff has crazy amount of additives and what sold me was the fact that even after running the holy living piss out of my gullwing for over 130 miles in a day ar 4k rpm... the oil pressure was still great, oil temp stable, and when I drained it, it still was in good shape and still a bitch to clean off my hands.
Have you ever tried http://www.oilextreme.com/breakin.html? I recorded a David Vizard seminar where he discussed this. I will post up a transcript of that later.
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I'll play.
In the early 90's, On the marathon rig, which was a naturally aspirated 496 with a 12 quart oil capacity and oil heater/cooler (oil cooled with warm water) we used the old Valvoline Racing 50. The reasoning was simply that it netted the most desirable oil pressure readings (65 psi at 5,500 rpm) and it was part of a sponsorship and was provided gratis. (Major decision paradigm there lol).
I don't believe in multi viscosity pulls with large deltas. First off, I've never run my crap in freezing temps, second, I feel the polymers take a little something away from the oil.
I have been using Amsoil in literally everything for about 20 years now, I still try to keep close on the viscosity for the known weather stuff, but when it coves to the cars, I run the recomended weights.
I know what my clearances always were in the race stuff and felt comfortable enough making the decisions I did, but to be totally honest, never had the tech to know for exactly sure. I can tell you, we never had ANY oil related failures. Rocks the size of small cars were always our downfall. Lol
GT