SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: TCRUSH on March 30, 2009, 03:49:11 PM
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I just bought the new boat about a week ago. The motor is fresh. The oil looks brand new. I was thinking about when I will need to change the oil. I started looking at the oil pan and their is no hose hooked to where the drain plug is. How am I supposed to drain the oil? I could pull the plug but then I would fill the boat with oil. Is there a way to go through the dipstick and suck it out with some kind of tool. My old boat had a rubber hose that connected at the drain plug and had a plug in the end that you remove to drain the oil. Please help clear this up. Sorry for the newbie questions. Thanks.
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Yes , they do have a kit/pump that will drain thru the dipstick... check online or at your closest Marine store...
I will try to find it also and post it up......
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http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/links/link.jsp?id=0001133011822a&type=product&cmCat=SEARCH_all&returnPage=search-results1.jsp&Ntt=oil+pump&Ntk=Products&sort=all&_D%3AhasJS=+&N=0&_D%3Asort=+&Nty=1&hasJS=true&_DARGS=%2Fcabelas%2Fen%2Fcommon%2Fsearch%2Fsearch-box.jsp.form1&_dyncharset=ISO-8859-1
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I just got a Motive from Summit, it's funny b/c I'm in the garage doing the oil change now, it's not the fastest thing in the world, been 2 hours only 5 qts out but I didn't run the engine very long to warm the oil either, next time I'll do the change @ the lake right after I trailer the boat. Good luck, BTW I think the hose style suck big green balls.
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MVP%2D1708&N=700+400590+115&autoview=sku (http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=MVP%2D1708&N=700+400590+115&autoview=sku)
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Thanks guys. I will check into that. I felt the hose thing sucked too. Trying to get oil to flow down that hose doesnt seem realistic. When do you guys change your oil anyway? After the season is over? Thanks for the help. TC
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I change mine at the beginning of the season and about mid way through.
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The small drain hoses take some time, but you can leave it over night?
In many of the race boats that I have been around and built engines for, an AN fitting is put into the pan and capped off. When it's time to change the oil, a separated hose is run though the drain in the transom, the cap unscrewed and the hose screwed onto the fitting without losing much oil, so it's easy to clean up. Using a -10 fitting (5/8" hose) lets it drain reasonably quickly.
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Any body ever use these:
http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram+&+Autolite/750898/10002/-1 (http://www.jegs.com/p/Fram+&+Autolite/750898/10002/-1)
I had one on a car and flockin loved it, made it so easy to drain the pan. Havent had one on a boat though
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The small drain hoses take some time, but you can leave it over night?
In many of the race boats that I have been around and built engines for, an AN fitting is put into the pan and capped off. When it's time to change the oil, a separated hose is run though the drain in the transom, the cap unscrewed and the hose screwed onto the fitting without losing much oil, so it's easy to clean up. Using a -10 fitting (5/8" hose) lets it drain reasonably quickly.
I'm kinda liking this plan, I'm pulling the trigger on a new(to me) pan in the morning. Does anyone make a steel an fitting I can have welded in, or would I need to get like a 2 piece o-ringed deal, and hope it doesn't loosen up? I'm not so crazy about the 2nd option.
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i welded a fitting to the bottem side of my oil pan. i can change my oil in about 5 mins. i ran a line from the bung up the transom. so that when i want to change the oil i uncork that line stick it thru my water outlet in the transom and out comes all the oil. best mod i have done so far.
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I'm kinda liking this plan, I'm pulling the trigger on a new(to me) pan in the morning. Does anyone make a steel an fitting I can have welded in, or would I need to get like a 2 piece o-ringed deal, and hope it doesn't loosen up? I'm not so crazy about the 2nd option.
Kreg
If the pan does not have a 1/2" pipe bung already, you can get one welded in. Then you simply use a regular AN adapter and cap. I used a cheaper brass pushlock fitting in a chunk of old garden hose as my drain line, long enough to extend past my cavitation plates into a bucket.
There are also AN fittings (Rex Marine) that go into the standard drain plug hole, but that restricts flow quite a bit, still neater than having a hose lying in the bilge all the time.
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Does anyone know of a replacement drain plug w/ a hose or fitting to drain oil through for a milodin 10qt pan? I'm not sure what size it drain plug is, but it is huge compared to stock.. I was thinking about taking it out and drilling through the middle of it and tapping my old drain plug/hose into it.. I would love to not go through the hassle though!
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Rex Marine should have what you need.
http://rexmar.com/page273.html
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Thanks.. Unfortunately, it's not it big enough.. I don't know the exact measurement, but I think the drain plug bolt on the milodon pan has threads that are about 1 1/4"..
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Thanks.. Unfortunately, it's not it big enough.. I don't know the exact measurement, but I think the drain plug bolt on the milodon pan has threads that are about 1 1/4"..
That might be just a large pipe thread plug, easy to buy an adapter and cap and use a hose as I described above.
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if it is pipe thread just buy a nipple and a T-Valve from your local hardware store. 90 off the T-valve and add a hose.
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http://www.cpperformance.com/detail.aspx?ID=719
these work pretty well
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you are going to have to decide what size you need but they will have the one that will fit your application.
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those sure drains by fram work well on cars. I bet you could get one and extend the hose because they only have about 6 inches of hose on them, and run it out the transom drain plug, and if you ran the engine to heat the oil it would probably work pretty well. Those banjo fitting hose setups suck from what I have seen. Its a tiny ass hole and takes forever if the oils cold.
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those sure drains by fram work well on cars. I bet you could get one and extend the hose because they only have about 6 inches of hose on them, and run it out the transom drain plug, and if you ran the engine to heat the oil it would probably work pretty well. Those banjo fitting hose setups suck from what I have seen. Its a tiny ass hole and takes forever if the oils cold.
The hose on the fram deal is just connected with a clip...easy to switch out for a longer one. The oil flows pretty well even cold out of em, cant imagine you would have to heat it up that much, just lift the front of the trailer.
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just lift the front of the trailer.
Exactly ::)
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i ran one of tom's (jbp) hose kits on forkedup, lifted the front of the boat on friday night, put the hose out the transom drain and into a bucket, let it drain all night while i drank, capped it off sat morning and refilled with fresh oil, not much hassle, no mess, and it drained while i was passed out, what more could you want >:D
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I am an HVAC tech and have a 115 volt gear pump that I use on my oil pan drain hose, I can literally change the oil (10 qts.) and filter in 15 mins. if the oil is warm, which is pretty easy because there is a lake 5 mins. from mi casa ! ;)
These pumps are super duper cheap, Grainger sells them as a kit, I use it a few times a month at work... 8)
GT
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Yeah..I use the one from the dipstick tube...Make sure the oil is "warmed up" and it works "pretty good" it'll get most of it and if you do it correctly...there is no mess at all! ;D I have had the "oil drain plug kit",I have had the "drain it thru the bottom of the boat thru the transom" shmit. They all work but GT has a good idea...but in the meantime,goin' thru the dipstick tube with "warmed up oil", I think you'll do just fine..... ;D 8) ;)
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I had to have my oil changed ahead of plan at Lake mead a few weeks ago. The boat shop there used one of the Motives Skip mentioned. Worked like a charm, but took a little time. Not a problem because they had a hard time finding a filter that would clear the stringer! Opened like 15 or so filters before one fit. (Putting on the remote kit Thursday. Had to wait to find a different deal with the block adapter outlets coming out the sides AND top of it)
Anyway, they got out 9 1/2 quarts, which is a little more than I had put in it to begin with (Water was the balance).
Convinced me that it works. I was concerned because of my 10 qt Milodon pan as well. Seems to me I can just use the vaccuum deal just fine. Slow is ok, as after this year, I probably won't have to change my oil but once a season, running Joe Gibbs stuff.
Ray
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I had to have my oil changed ahead of plan at Lake mead a few weeks ago. The boat shop there used one of the Motives Skip mentioned. Worked like a charm, but took a little time. Not a problem because they had a hard time finding a filter that would clear the stringer! Opened like 15 or so filters before one fit. (Putting on the remote kit Thursday. Had to wait to find a different deal with the block adapter outlets coming out the sides AND top of it)
Anyway, they got out 9 1/2 quarts, which is a little more than I had put in it to begin with (Water was the balance).
Convinced me that it works. I was concerned because of my 10 qt Milodon pan as well. Seems to me I can just use the vaccuum deal just fine. Slow is ok, as after this year, I probably won't have to change my oil but once a season, running Joe Gibbs stuff.
Ray
Damn Baller, you know that stuff is $15-$20 a quart right?
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How thick of oil are you guys running? I use 10w-30 and it drains out of the standard oil pan drain hose you are all complaining about just fine. :screwy:
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Umm yeah, I do. I DID PAY FOR IT! The oil that was changed out though needed to be after 2 or 3 hours run time. Was their Break-in oil, and is about half the cost of their Hot Rod oil in it now. But yeah, $220 a case direct.
To it's defense, and 1 reason I can't wait to get the remote dual filters and cooler on it, we ran Rotella with Comp cams additive in it on a bench to break the cam in, and it ran like 70 psi, and a couple whacks to 6000 rpm it hit 85 PSI. On the Hot Rod oil, it's burying my needle at over 100. Ran a mechanical after Mead directly into the sender's spot, same thing (per Terry). The stuff has some serious metal clinging abilities, and I've gotta lower that pressure, and I think the remote filter dealio and the cooler will help do just that.
If that doesn't do it, gonna hafta run one of the remote filter oil lines 2 or three times around the bilge before it goes back in to do it. No oil pump could possibly keep up with THAT expansion!.
Ray
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NICE :-) ur an HVAC tech GT? I did commercial air conditioning for 2 years but now im an operating engineer. We had those lil 115 volt gear pumps for changing the oil in chillers and they work GREAT, lol just gotta make sure that you dont blow any 10w-30 residue into the chiller lol.
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NICE :-) ur an HVAC tech GT? I did commercial air conditioning for 2 years but now im an operating engineer. We had those lil 115 volt gear pumps for changing the oil in chillers and they work GREAT, lol just gotta make sure that you dont blow any 10w-30 residue into the chiller lol.
Yep, its always funny when I use it on a Trane centrifugal and I tell the building engineer "hold on while I flush the Amsoil out of my pump" ;D
GT
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lol thats what we have, the centraVac 750 ton units. 2 of em
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lol thats what we have, the centraVac 750 ton units. 2 of em
CVHE :sly:
I've overhauled and maintained them for over 10 years, been working on a building with 3 500 ton York (Screws) and I would trade em all for one Trane Centra Vac. The Irony is we own York International (JCI).
Sorry for the thread jacking.
GT
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I was staring at my 454 last night and please tell me the oil filter can still come out even with the stringer close by? Its pretty tucked away. The logs are there. I can feel it but its kind of hard to see. I hope I can unsrew it and drop it down and get it out. have you guys had any problems with this? Thanks fellas. TC
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You should still be able to spin it off. Wrap a gallon ziplock around it and let it fall in the bag so you dont get oil all over your bilge. ;D