SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: GAWnCA on March 30, 2008, 11:22:49 AM
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What's the best way to prime the oil pump and should I do it with the valve covers off and the oil filter full and tight?
Greg
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What's the best way to prime the oil pump and should I do it with the valve covers off and the oil filter full and tight?
Greg
Pull the distributor out, get a long extention and a 5/16 socket (TAPE THE TWO TOGETHER), spin it counter clockwise with a drill till you oil the rockers. you'll save some time if you fill the filter up first and yes it should be tight. Have fun -Josh
The above info is for a ford.......chevy would be a hair different
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The above info is for a ford.......chevy would be a hair different
It'll work for olds too......
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It'll work for olds too......
Thanks Josh, I've got an old distributor shaft that I was going to use, attached to my drill or should it be done by hand?
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Thanks Josh, I've got an old distributor shaft that I was going to use, attached to my drill or should it be done by hand?
with the drill
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with the drill
x2
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x2
I just read past the part where you said drill. I guess I can do that today while I wait for some water fittings to arrive. Thanks! 8) Valve covers off.
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And spin the power drill slowly; once pressure builds the drill can kick back big time.
LO
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And spin the power drill slowly; once pressure builds the drill can kick back big time.
LO
Thanks LO, Planned on going slow. No need to get in a rush. ;) Thanks!
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With a Chevy you would spin it clockwise. ;D
T.J.
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Well, started priming the pump... Hooked up my brand new Hitachi 5/8" hammer drill and when the pressure started to build I thought I was going to blow the drill. It started smoking. I can turn it by hand but feel the pressure. I hope this is a good sign. Heard the air being pushed out of the filter and those lines. How long should it take to prime everything?
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Don't bother to fill the filter if you are priming the system, it takes only a few extra seconds to fill it, and theres less chance for a mess. With a 460 the filter screws in almost sideways and you can't fill it much anyway. At first, the drill will spin freely, then it will draw down slightly when the pump picks up prime, then it will draw down further when the filter is full, and finally it will draw down even more when the oil galleys are full. DO NOT continue to keep running the drill! All that will accomplish is to wash all of the bearing assembly lube off of the bearings and down into the pan. If your rig has a remote filter setup, it will take longer, but the drawdown will be the same, if you are unsure, you can crack open the return line from the remote filters to the block and see when the oil lines are full back to the block. It is neither necessary or desireable to prime until oil is at the top end and comes out of the pushrods, you should have lubed them anyway. With a hydraulic cam having the lifters empty at start-up eases the cam break-in too. TIMINATOR
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Thanks Tim.... I think I've got it primed and now as soon as I can get up the strength to push on these fuel lines to the push on fittings, and get the tanks back in, I can try firing it up. I'm waiting on a couple of fittings that should be here tomorrow or Tuesday. Gotta run the new wiring and should be ready to button everything up and go to the river to test and tune.
BTW, I do have the remote oil filter and it's going to be a lot easier and cleaner to change the oil filter. Also drilled and tapped the oil pan plug and put a valve on it with a 3/8" hose so I can drain the oil out the jet pump drain hole. I hate oil messes where you can't clean them up.
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I change my oil a lot, so I run a -8 line to a bulkhead fitting on the transom and install a cap on the outside, so I don't have to get into the bilge to run the hose out of the water drain hole. TIMINATOR
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I change my oil a lot, so I run a -8 line to a bulkhead fitting on the transom and install a cap on the outside, so I don't have to get into the bilge to run the hose out of the water drain hole. TIMINATOR
Sounds like a good idea. I'll try this first since I've already got it set up. I can change everything from the transom now, and just get in the boat to add the oil. The muck that was in there when I pull the motor made me have to come up with something better.
Later on when I pull everything out to do the hull work and refinish, I know I've got a lot of oil soaked wood that will have to be replaced and a lot of glass work. I may go the route you did. What valve did you install in the pan? DO you have a company web site?
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The website is under construction. The valve is a 1/4" or 3/8" quarter turn deal from Harbor freight or Home depot/Lowes. TIMINATOR
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The website is under construction. The valve is a 1/4" or 3/8" quarter turn deal from Harbor freight or Home depot/Lowes. TIMINATOR
I started out with a 1/4" valve and then got to thin king about how slow the tranny fluid went through it to the PD pump and changed it up to a 3/8" quarter turn from Lowes. Bought a 10' length of clear tubing that was already cut, way too long but, cheaper than if they had cut me a piece 5' long. Guess I'll look for a transom or jet pump transom house fitting that will work.