Sorry get well first ....was drooling over over your build lol


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Here's a couple

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The mains are all matched @.0031", with thread in oil restrictions, the block returns are opened as much as I can. The cam gears are Proform if I'm correct. I had a comparable engine in my '76 Cutlass with 400hp fogged. It'd carry the fronts past the 60' to lay out a 9.73@141.
I've got the stringers out for replacement along with a new floor. I made a new wiring harness with all weatherpac connectors. Auto meter Phantom II gauges are on the shelf. The Berk JE is rebuilt, new shaft, bearings, bushings, inducer, SS loader, hydraulic place diverter. I haven't ordered an impeller yet, figuring bronze A cut. Still have a shit load of work to do, if I can physically do it.
I'm having some fucked up medical situation going on. Disc compression issues pushing on my spinal cord causing tremors and loss of fine motor skills in my right hand and leg, then two weeks ago I slipped on the ice and fell 3'. On impact it drove my upper arm bone (humerus) into the shoulder socket and partially tearing the rotator cuff. Damnable luck, if it was raining pussies I'd get hit with a dick.


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Just got back from Dr's office, fucking fully torn rotator cuff, surgery next Thursday. I can't win for losing. Well, this project just got its timeline pushed back.

Not much, I've been successful opening about 2mm. Gotta be careful with cast iron though, the thermal expansion in those areas is not a lot; however, if you keep it cool <160 degrees, there's no problem. In a car (closed cooling system) temps are higher but even throughout, not so much in marine systems.


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Hope'n these load:

The block pic shows corner drains "eased "and enlarged to promote drain back.

Judging by your pics, you only "relieved" the entrance to the head return galleries, I could not discern if you actually increased the diameter of the port all the way through. The oil return gallery passes within 1/2" of the heads cooling jacket. If one has patience, a good die grinder and assorted carbide bits, you can enlarge the whole port by a full 2mm. The mild deburring around the lifter bores is ok. Did you clean up the openings over the cam tunnel, or really enlarge the forward drain at the front of the block? Restricting the the oil passage in the pushrods is critical also.  The stock 5qt pan doesn't help the issue either.


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Cleanup around the hole doesn't get the oil through the passage faster at all.  The drain back lines WILL correct all drain back issues. With my motor sitting on the stand, it'd be a cinch for me to add the lines, hard for guys with it in the hole. Gotta remember one key thing here, once you drill, tap and install the fitting in the head for line connection, you've now got a "left head or right head" situation created. Not really a problem, but, it does make distinct left or right designators.


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Hell, I'll only be down one arm, there's much I can try to get done with the good arm, like drink a lil' shine, and....and...drink a lil' more shine and.............


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Sounds like you got your ducks all in a line bro! I'm thinking the Hot Boat article from years back said if you've addressed all the oil restrictions/issues you prolly don't need the oil lines. I think main issue w/ lines is the placement of the pan drains. Exactly,exactly next to a main bearing "saddle" is where it needs be. Even witth a good windage tray there is so much ag

More power an extremely stiff gin and tonic is sufficing to assist me currently on the south-paw issue I currently have. The oil line return bungs on the pan are an issue to me now. Once it's there it's there. Damn! Time to switch to shine to figger this one.


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