SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: 2savage4you on May 06, 2008, 04:15:33 PM
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Whats all involved with it? Disassemble , press off/on the piston, rebalance everything. Hone the cylinders again? install . Is that about it or is there more to it......
2sav
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Measuring, checking the cylinder to piston clearence, and then determining how much work needs to be done from there. The piston balance isn't nearly as critical as the crankshaft balance, so if you get new pistons and they are close to the old ones, it's ok, not perfect, but good.
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Im thinking about doing a swap and if its too much involved and i need alot of machine work i might just build another engine and say F it.....
2sav
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Im thinking about doing a swap and if its too much involved and i need alot of machine work i might just build another engine and say F it.....
2sav
It's one of those, "it all depends" kind of deals ;D
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Im thinking about doing a swap and if its too much involved and i need alot of machine work i might just build another engine and say F it.....
2sav
Is it just me or has the build recently gone in reverse ??? get a game plan and stick with it
-beerjet-
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Is it just me or has the build recently gone in reverse ??? get a game plan and stick with it
-beerjet-
Well remember im a broke ass jet boater ;D and im trying to decide what is the best way to go about this...Should i say f it and run CAST pistons? Swap them out?........Build a motor that i know it will last.......Too many options and too much time on my hands :banghead:
2sav
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Well remember im a broke ass jet boater ;D and im trying to decide what is the best way to go about this...Should i say f it and run CAST pistons? Swap them out?........Build a motor that i know it will last.......Too many options and too much time on my hands :banghead:
2sav
How do you know they are cast?
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Cast pistons are fine, just get it done. Build your dream motor next winter. C'mon its May already, and you're so close.
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Cast pistons are fine, just get it done. Build your dream motor next winter. C'mon its May already, and you're so close.
I am so tempted to do just that, but i am worried my season would end sooner then expected.... I could easily drop in a smaller cam , run the peanut heads and get the boat wet. Who know's the boat might even run good, its a light lay up. But i dont want to be the guy that cant keep up with the crop ;D But then again , sitting on the beach sucks too......
How do you know they are cast?
RyanBrindle had a set of cast pistons in my shed, we compared them to one another.......Identicle (sp)
Except his were FERDS and mine are Cheby's
2sav
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I would pull the pan off, and check to see if there are part numbers on the bottom of those pistons, and see if you can find out what they are. Some forged have the rough casting in the valve notches as well
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Is this motor 2 bolt or 4 bolt
is crank forged or cast under size 10=20 under new or used
forged rod or stock rods rebuilt or have good bolts or
have stock rod bolts.
Do you know if motor is balanced and how?
is the cam in it the one you would use to big to small what
what berg were used in motor. name brand or re builder
and how much are you going to change in motor.
My 2 cent says start new and do it rite this time you will have
lots of repeat cost if you rework, sell motor complete build a killer
wont cost that much more, start rite and do it rite plan your work
and work you plan one time and done, and stick to plan Good berg,
good cam ,good pistons,good rods good crank, block,good heads best
maching you can get, and balance job. Run fast and make it to last in short
time you will spend more on gas than motor $200 oil on way:banghead:
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2bolt
Cast crank
Stock rods
Balanced?
Cam yes.
Berg??? Builder wasnt me, dont know
Change pistons unless i build a new motor then i will use H beams ;D
Reading that just made me tired : banghead:
2confused
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2bolt
Cast crank
Stock rods
Balanced?
Cam yes.
Berg??? Builder wasnt me, dont know
Change pistons unless i build a new motor then i will use H beams ;D
Reading that just made me tired : banghead:
2confused
Believe me . You wont have to worry about "keepin up " with anybody . Those cast piston , mild cam , peanut port head motors are the ones that give you the least trouble . Just be nice to it and it'll buy YOU enough time for a mill on the side . Dave (engine doctor) is offering his knowledge and Ron is offering up a cam and we'll all do what we can to get you water worthy . Keep chipping away at or else you'll just keep goin in reverse and you'll never see water . Except from shore of course . Put this thing together and see what it does . Cant you taste it ! I can fukin taste it !
-beerjet-
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Thanks Omar, and everyone for the help.. I get so damn frustrated when this shit pops up, i just want everything perfect the first time.. But i keep forgetting its a boat ( Bend over and take it) we will run this motor so wish us luck ;D
Now back to our regularly scheduled program ;D
2sav
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Sebastian and Marc got 2 1/2 years out of a stock truck BBC that they bought semi-rusty and they didn't baby it either. I think it did like 55 on the GPS. :sly:
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This is getting to be our regular program dude. Get it on the water this summer man, you don't need to keep up with anybody. I assure you that you will be ahead up me, but I will be having a great time same as you. 8)
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Sebastian and Marc got 2 1/2 years out of a stock truck BBC that they bought semi-rusty and they didn't baby it either. I think it did like 55 on the GPS. :sly:
Thats what i want to hear ;)
2sav
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They beat the sh!t out of that thing. ;)
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But i dont want to be the guy that cant keep up with the crop ;D But then again , sitting on the beach sucks too......
2sav
i'll be back there with you, having a nice cold boat soda, enjoying being on the water, now get that f'n thing done
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2 Sav you can build a pretty decent 350 to 400 hp "claimer" motor for cheap with cast piston (inexpensive rotating assy) or buy a inexpensive block , slap in in have fun heck a decent motor turn key can be built easily for under 2 K ;D Tom
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Cast pistons are lighter than forged - much harder to balance once the cast pistons are swapped. You would have to weld up the crank.
A piston swap IS basically rebuilding the engine, you have to completely dissasemble the engine, so why wouldn't you put in new rings and bearings while you are there?
Cast pistons are actually better than forged in many cases: they are lighter (engine rev's quicker), typically have a good flame front, and are designed to last. They are not better in cases where you are abusing the piston itself, IE detonation, ton of boost, etc.
A cast piston will handle some boost and nitrous oxide (I have a cast piston 440 that has a 200 shot on it, never a problem and that engine has seen a LOT of NOS), just don't get crazy with it. A cast piston isn't going to want a 400 shot and/or 15 lbs of boost, it just won't be strong enough.
That is where a Forged piston is better - more strength, so things like a lean condition, excessive boost, ect don't affect it.
If you are building under 1.5Hp per CI, including all of the power adders, cast is the way to go in my mind.
I always like to have a spare engine and parts (hence the reason I want to get rid of the olds, it was an orphan), so my suggestion is to run what you have, enjoy, and build another one on the side. Right now your season is ended 'cause you don't want to run what you have. Run it until you can't.
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Cast pistons are lighter than forged - much harder to balance once the cast pistons are swapped. You would have to weld up the crank.
A piston swap IS basically rebuilding the engine, you have to completely dissasemble the engine, so why wouldn't you put in new rings and bearings while you are there?
Cast pistons are actually better than forged in many cases: they are lighter (engine rev's quicker), typically have a good flame front, and are designed to last. They are not better in cases where you are abusing the piston itself, IE detonation, ton of boost, etc.
A cast piston will handle some boost and nitrous oxide (I have a cast piston 440 that has a 200 shot on it, never a problem and that engine has seen a LOT of NOS), just don't get crazy with it. A cast piston isn't going to want a 400 shot and/or 15 lbs of boost, it just won't be strong enough.
That is where a Forged piston is better - more strength, so things like a lean condition, excessive boost, ect don't affect it.
If you are building under 1.5Hp per CI, including all of the power adders, cast is the way to go in my mind.
I always like to have a spare engine and parts (hence the reason I want to get rid of the olds, it was an orphan), so my suggestion is to run what you have, enjoy, and build another one on the side. Right now your season is ended 'cause you don't want to run what you have. Run it until you can't.
All excellent points! 2sav you stated that you don't want your season to end early due to the motor , but if you don't get something going soon your season won't start at all!
What rod said about sebastian and I and the bone stock 454 truck motor is completly true and then some. We had no clue as to what we were doing at that time ( 4 seasons ago ) and were running a b/c cut impeller and ran that stock motor at 5500 to 6000 almost the whole time! 2 1/2 seasons into it it finally spun a bearing. But we went to the river everyother weekend the whole time we had it. It was a simi light layup hull and did 56 mph on the gps. We were so happy we dident know what to dowith ourselves.
If you think anyone on here is gonna be hauling ass in parker you are dead wrong!! Have you seen how choppy that water is??
Get your motor put togeather and get in the fuking water and have a good time and just take it easy till you get your big motor finished!
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Thats everything i wanted to hear.......Ive got it stuck in my head that i have to run forged or it just wont work........I guess i have to stop being so anal about it and just get it in the water...
So what it all comes down to is not being the last in line but just being there to be the last in line ;D
I will finish up this engine in the next few days get her back in the boat and get r done >:D
Im still going to pick up the other block and slowly build it, did i say slowly already ;)
so im going to run a 454 with a performer intake peanut port heads and a 800 cfm Holley, that should be good to about 50 mph ya think ???
2sav
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with the price of gas its all about floating for me
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with the price of gas its all about floating for me
;D ;D ;D
I say f' it and just run it, that boats gonna haul ass no matter what you do, later you find the inside wisdom of horsepower grasshopper ;D
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;D ;D ;D
I say f' it and just run it, that boats gonna haul ass no matter what you do, later you find the inside wisdom of horsepower grasshopper ;D
Thats funny.
2sav
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In my nearly 30 years of boat ownership I have never had a boat that would run faster than 50 mph. It did pull up 5 skiers at once tho. It continues to run trouble free with over 500 hours. Oil has been changed very seldom. Cavitated and redlined often cuz that's what stupid teen drivers do. Its a gas sipper to boot! 400 SBChevy doesn't get the rep it deserves. No one EVER complained we didn't go fast enuf. No one EVER said they didn't have fun enuf. Put a bunch of chrome on it if it make you feel better but git it done. Gas ain't getting any cheaper :mad:
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Also, if you are worried about keeping it alive - don't run it lean, keep the timing conservative, and it will last a long time.
99% of every vehicle on the road today came with cast pistons, even the new hemi's (6.1's excluded), and those can take quite a bit of abuse and make a ton of HP.
And if your boat "only" does 50 MPH - so what. Are you going there to race or to have a good time? For me, I'm pretty sure my kids can't ski behind me at 50 MPH - or 40 - or 25 for that matter.
Growing up, our boat could only do 45 MPH, and that was way faster than any of us could handle skiing behind it.
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Ok im going ahead with the build, now i have done some researching and even if i change my cam i have to match it with springs or it is a waiste of time eventually i will flatten the cam or worse float/suck a valve.
So i have another set of better flowing heads with the same size valves in my peanut heads, see were im going with this? I need to match the springs to the cam, i found everything i need @ Summit ;D
Cant i just take out my valves and swap them over to the other heads, yes i know another valve job is required... But it would give me better flow and i would not have to worry about building another engine for awhile......bigger flowing heads and a better intake.... I can do this and get it ready in about a month..
2sav
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Only if you are running a loose impellor. If you are running an A2 or something, you'll probably slow it down. Increased flow helps at the upper RPM, hurts at the lower RPM. So, depending on what you are running for the ret of the combo, it might be better to use the good intake with the small port heads.
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Only if you are running a loose impellor. If you are running an A2 or something, you'll probably slow it down. Increased flow helps at the upper RPM, hurts at the lower RPM. So, depending on what you are running for the ret of the combo, it might be better to use the good intake with the small port heads.
Im running a "B" cut impeller so im thinking i need the rpm's as high as i can get em..
2sav
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In that case run the bigger heads unless it will take all summer to finish it. ;D
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valve job is easy ,if you want the same springs summit sells as house brand search e bay for falcon global they are in florida and sell complete kits spring retainers and keeper packs for cheap I use alot of their stuff and have never had a problem,sure you can swap valves as long as you have the same size valve stems some of the peanut heads used on trucks and heavy duty apps had sodium filled stems and are bigger than conventional valve stems thats the only difference there one is 5/16 the other is 3/8 stem. if you want specific info pm me I am a long time head porter and have tons of stuff laying around.....piston swapping 454 are factory externally balanced the main difference between the cast and forged pistons is the clearance forged pistons grow more than cast and a hell of alot more than those hyperpathetic pistons as I like to call them a cast piston is about 80 grams less than a forged and I wont even compare to the hyperpathic the forged piston is denser than the cast and will stand up to way more abuse ie...pre ignition and or detonation as well as extreme rpm and lean jetting ,the cast piston cylinder wall clearance is about 1and a half thou to about three thou while the forged is 3 and a half to up to six thou sometimes more cast will live a happy life without mondo rpm and excessive timing also lean is mean so watch the jetting of the carb and you will be fine hope this helps..........
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I think cast pistons are a good choice for what you are doing. :)
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I think cast pistons are a good choice for what you are doing. :)
Well were going to find out... 429heads is going to do up my spare set of heads real nice for me. So now im going to have more flow with bigger ports and SS valves , should i ditch the performer intake now?
Hhhmmm.
2sav
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Well were going to find out... 429heads is going to do up my spare set of heads real nice for me. So now im going to have more flow with bigger ports and SS valves , should i ditch the performer intake now?
Hhhmmm.
2sav
Hey Steve, time to pull that bottom end apart and find out if everything's cool down there. I just took mine down tonight to freshin up before Parker and didn't like what I had seen..... yea I know, MORE work :banghead:
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Hey Steve, time to pull that bottom end apart and find out if everything's cool down there. I just took mine down tonight to freshin up before Parker and didn't like what I had seen..... yea I know, MORE work :banghead:
Yeah i was thinking the same thing but, i dont have no calipers or doo hicky's or even any thingy ma bobs to check it with ;D
I have a feeling my clearance's wont be right and i will have to tear it all down and do it over....If thats the case,new pistons will be in order ;)
Im beginning to hate being a boat owner :banghead: Its like paying for something you cant even use :screwy:
2sav
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if the bearing clearances are not right you can get .001 over or under from king bearing
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Hey Steve, time to pull that bottom end apart and find out if everything's cool down there. I just took mine down tonight to freshin up before Parker and didn't like what I had seen..... yea I know, MORE work :banghead:
I say unless you hear a knockin, or your oil pressure is 20lb at 6000 RPM, slap it in and go. The worst that will happen is it will blow up - and you'll have to put in the engine you were building for it ANYWAY>>>>
Everyone struggling for perfection is the surest way of never enjoying it!
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Everyone struggling for perfection is the surest way of never enjoying it!
thats a two edge sword :-\
but i FULLY agree
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C'mon Speedy - help 2Sav out. Build him an Olds so he can get back on the water. >:D
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C'mon Speedy - help 2Sav out. Build him an Olds so he can get back on the water. >:D
Marc and I had a complete drop in and go factory high compression 180 lbs per cylinder 455 Olds but...
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Marc and I had a complete drop in and go factory high compression 180 lbs per cylinder 455 Olds but...
Yeah and i also had the Omega at the time too BUT!! things change ;)
2sav
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... BUT!! things change ;)
2sav
Especially at your house 2Sav >:D J/K!
Just messing around 2sav. I'd run a cast piston before a hyperblowmatic piston. Just run it fat and it'll be fine.
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C'mon Speedy - help 2Sav out. Build him an Olds so he can get back on the water. >:D
OK, Already done. Ready to go 455 olds sitting here in the garage for you. :-)
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Mr. 2Savage4you please pick up the white courtesy phone.
Mr. 2Sav pick up the white courtesy phone. Your ride is waiting.