SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: pipes on April 06, 2014, 07:09:36 PM
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Water lines fuel lines etc. Anyone ever hard pipe all of these instead of the usual black rubber hose or braided? Seems like solid stainless steel lines bent nicely would be a real clean look
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http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/140985-hard-cooling-lines.html (http://www.performanceboats.com/jet-boats/140985-hard-cooling-lines.html)
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I have two hard lines for my dumps.
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I am going to eventually convert mine to polished as hardlines from as braided. Its a lot cleaner and you can do some good bends with it to tuck stuff up and away.
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Nice! That's what I'm talking about! That's real clean.swagelok and stainless tubing with tight bends. Going that route.
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inspiration:
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fi258.photobucket.com%2Falbums%2Fhh261%2FOutlawDaytona%2FBoat008.jpg&hash=ec4826b72efadc1a014ea55567541b0f59fd1040)
(https://scontent-a.xx.fbcdn.net/hphotos-ash3/t1.0-9/1485080_10152118068664833_229309535099905213_n.jpg)
love all those cool bends you normally couldnt do in a hose. with my water lines, fuel lines, and trim tab lines theres a lot going on on my transom. going hardline with some clamps will definitely help clean things up.
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who does them? Not for my current pile but when i get up to the GW..
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who does them? Not for my current pile but when i get up to the GW..
you can buy the swivel/crimp ends, tubing, and a bender easily. as for making the bends its all 100% custom.
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hey kayo u never got back with me
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HOLY SMOKES! You the man kaOtyk. Are those sea strainers? That's a good idea. How did u make that transom plate?
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HOLY SMOKES! You the man kaOtyk. Are those sea strainers? That's a good idea. How did u make that transom plate?
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those arent mine. im eventually going to go that route. but ive followed their builds and they've both made some bad ass custom boats. if you had to do all of that plumbing in hose you'd be a million dollars in fittings and it would look ghetto.
as far as the transom plate its the same thing that my dad had in his daycruiser. just a piece of aluminum plate fastened to the transom and then everything you need to mount is threaded into the plate. they milled some accent holes out of it to help with weight and gives it a nice look too. this way you dont have to drill a bunch of holes into your transom.
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those arent mine. im eventually going to go that route. but ive followed their builds and they've both made some bad ass custom boats. if you had to do all of that plumbing in hose you'd be a million dollars in fittings and it would look ghetto.
as far as the transom plate its the same thing that my dad had in his daycruiser. just a piece of aluminum plate fastened to the transom and then everything you need to mount is threaded into the plate. they milled some accent holes out of it to help with weight and gives it a nice look too. this way you dont have to drill a bunch of holes into your transom.
Have u ever seen anyone use copper before for all this ?
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Have u ever seen anyone use copper before for all this ?
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ask her. she looks like she knows what shes doing with the pipe.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zV8boURmByU (https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=zV8boURmByU)
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I would think copper could develop stress cracks from the constant jarring and vibration. Maybe GT JETS will chime in on this.
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Indeed!
Copper would need to be well supported. Any movement will cause it to work harden and eventually crack. If you want something that is light weight and a little easier to bend than stainless, go with 5052 in -O- condition (dead soft). It is easy to work with, once you understand bend allowance. Aluminum line still needs to be supported to prevent cracking. In my opinion, hard-lines are not self-supporting and should not be used to support anything, including Y and T fittings. You will also need to have a flex line between any component that will move during flex and vibration i.e. engine/hull, fuel filter, pump, etc. as well as support at the end of the hard line. Aluminum and copper tubing will require double-flares unless you go with a Swagelok style compression fitting.
Although I don’t consider stainless line to be self-supporting, it is some amazingly tough stuff and I have seen some plumbing practices that fatigue and crack other materials. I will probably run 304 SS on mine for cost and ease (relative) of forming. If max corrosion resistance is your thing, 316 SS is the alloy of choice, but it is harder to bend and work hardens while cutting/flaring. If you go the 316 SS route, you will be much happier with Swagelok fittings (except for the price) over AN/JIC fittings.
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I use 316 SS lines at work with high pressure 2800 psi of H2. We support all lines every 5 feet or less. Stainless would look bad ass but not to forgiving and kinda heavy and kinda pricey. Swagelok fittings are money but quality is top notch. Cool to say u got it hard piped but I guess u gotta ask yourself is it worth time and price? Your better be great with the tube bender otherwise it wont look consistant or bad ass it will look like a shitty job and u will think why did i go this route. Good luck.
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That's nasty!!😈
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I use 316 SS lines at work with high pressure 2800 psi of H2.
What operating temperatures and what is your application?