SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: H20Nut21Bahner on July 27, 2014, 09:57:21 AM
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Saw it posted here a while back, but can't remember who it was and have been unable to find the post.
anyone happen to have the "prints" for motor plates?
Looking at doing away with the 3-point mounts I have now and going with another rail kit. I've got plenty of aluminum plate and all the tools to do the fab work.
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Ford or chevy? I have some cardboard templates for a ford with a top mount starter
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Bbc .. didn't realize I hadn't mentioned that.
My Dad and I built a kit about 12 years ago, now I wish I had sketched it out or made templates
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IMHO, It is best to fit it to the actual hull. Nothing is straight or square on a fiberglass/wood boat.
Locate the engine relative to the pump for driveline angularity. Level the engine side-to-side relative to the gunwales.
Locate and mount the rails relative to the stringers and the engine. In the case of a mechanical fuel pump, make sure that the rails are low enough that the blocks and rails don’t interfere with the pump.
Fit the plates to the rails and stringers then transfer punch the bolt hole and dowel pin locations.
Fit the blocks to the angularity between the plate and rail and locate the holes.
Once you get all of the hole locations, the plate can be trimmed as desired. Make sure that you leave enough material around the mechanical fuel pump window so that the edge distance doesn’t become too thin. Other considerations to motor plate profile might include provisions for belt driven accessory mounts; alternator, vacuum pump, etc.
Cheers,
Joe
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IMHO, It is best to fit it to the actual hull. Nothing is straight or square on a fiberglass/wood boat.
Locate the engine relative to the pump for driveline angularity. Level the engine side-to-side relative to the gunwales.
Locate and mount the rails relative to the stringers and the engine. In the case of a mechanical fuel pump, make sure that the rails are low enough that the blocks and rails don’t interfere with the pump.
Fit the plates to the rails and stringers then transfer punch the bolt hole and dowel pin locations.
Fit the blocks to the angularity between the plate and rail and locate the holes.
Once you get all of the hole locations, the plate can be trimmed as desired. Make sure that you leave enough material around the mechanical fuel pump window so that the edge distance doesn’t become too thin. Other considerations to motor plate profile might include provisions for belt driven accessory mounts; alternator, vacuum pump, etc.
Cheers,
Joe
You're hired!
Engine is in the boat now with the 3 point mounts. I'm thinking I can take some measurments as it sits now,and get started on the majority of the work. I've got enough plate now, should be able to shape them and when the time comes, trim the width and heigth.
I can fight my way thru the majority of what to do, some of it by trial and error. Would just take a little more time than it had in the past. My Pops was awesome with geometry and things like this. If he were still around, he'd probably have it completely done in a day or two
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I forgot to mention, make sure that you verify that there is a minimum of 1/8” of clearance between the driveline yoke and the snap ring on the pump shaft to account for hull flex. If the pump shaft can push on the driveline, it will kill your engine thrust bearing and you could/will lose the entire engine.
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Well, when I'm ready, maybe I'll get in touch with you. Beer or cash, whichever is preferred
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[attachimg=1]
Don't know if this will help or not. This puter does not have a PDF writer so I had to cheat.
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(Attachment Link)
Don't know if this will help or not. This puter does not have a PDF writer so I had to cheat.
Sweet .. thanks GT
Much appreciated!
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