SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: Sanger75 on March 05, 2013, 10:04:45 PM
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Hey guys. I bought my first jet boat last year, and it has Rewarder over transom headers. The guy I bought the boat from said the person who built the boat put a regulator after the gate valve and said it had to be there so I wouldnt get too much water and give me a milkshake. Anyone know how rewarder headers are usually plummed from the jet? I want to remove the regulator and utilize just the gate valve because I believe it is causing some overheating issues.
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Your going to get several different opinions on this and you will be thoroughly confused by the time this thread hits 10 posts...
Here is my train of thought. Not saying I am right or wrong, just saying this is the way I have always done it and never had any issues.
I run a several turn gate valve directly off the pump, from there I go to a splitter to both inlets of the block. At the thermostat I have two outlets. One goes to a dump line overboard, more on that in a second. The other line goes to a screen strainer then to my control tee (I have a Bassett but they are all similar) then to the headers. The dump line size is where you can make or break the entire system. Not the actual hose size per se, but the outlet fitting.
The set up works because of the gate valve. once the above is plumbed and ready to rock, run the boat and have with you either some bushings for the dump line, or a smaller piece of hose to shove inside the dump line before the outlet and an extra hose clamp.
Run the boat with the gate valve opened a few turns watching the engine temperature gage. It is imperative that this gauge works.
After the engine warms up take it for a short run, you will know right away if the valve is too closed (she'll start to get warm) and you will need to open it up a bit (I like to mark the handle of the valve with White Out so I know where I am). The header valve should start to mist the headers at about 1700 RPM (for huge camshafts about 1800) if too soon, close the valve a bit, too late, open it a bit.
Once you get close, then you can monitor where the motor will run temperature wise.
Typically, you are really only concerned about the temperature at idle, mainly because this is when water flow is the lowest. Try to keep it at or slightly below 160 degree F. Running WFO they will typically run at like 110-120 degrees F If the temps just wont come up, yu may need to put a restrictor in the dump line. I have used a 1" piece of fuel hose inside the dump hose before the fitting and a hose clamp to keep it in place, you can always use a hard piece of plastic so you can drill it larger if needed, but honestly think you will find that it will end up between 3/8" to 7/16" outlet.
I have done many way more exotic set ups in the past, and they all work in a similar fashion. This way just uses very few parts and none of them move.
One word of caution, use a zip tie on the gate valve once you think you have it dialed in, this way a passer by can just dick with your junk so to speak. :sly:
Hope this helps.
GT
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I like GT's approach, but I went a different dirrection.
I installed an on/off valve under my seat so I can manually control water flow to my Bassetts. At idle it's off and when I'm on plane I turn it up a bit. When I shut the engine down I want to know my headers are dry. Even with the Bassett T valve with spring loaded regulator alot of water would drain at shut off. I did find some water under the valve covers, that's why I did this. I only run this boat to go balls out, if this was my regular ride I would make it easier like GT does.
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Thanks for the help guys. I have the adjustment valve up by my jetovator handle to adjust the water level going to my headers. I think I am going to try that and adjust it myself and see how it works out.
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My sbc is set up this way, valve by the seat, and at idle, there is bearly any water, but as soon as ya goose it it starts to mist/steam. I run as little water as possible, and after its adjusted, it sits there the rest of the day. I used all stainless braided hoses.
Daniel
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I just wrote this in a question about pressure but it applies here too!!!
I have a Thermostat 160* with a by-pass in the Thermostat housing to solve the Eng temp issue and no gate valves to solve water pressure issue the Reason = ( Gate valves may cause excess pressure into block or over transom headers if Leaned out to achieve proper temp in block your restricting the flow on the exit to keep the water slow enough to keep at a warm temp.)
On over the transom headers one line goes from your Themostat housing and feeds your Header pressure TEE which some have a gate valve to control inlet water pressure. One line goes to a gate valve and then overboard If you Lean out the gate valve your putting more water pressure to the Header TEE because it cant dump overboard and it may end up with water in your oil and vise versa if its open too far too much water dumps overboard & you blue your Headers
I have a 12 psi Relief valve off of the pump Jet drive "Water Feed" to not allow excess water pressure into my block (the water dumps overboard if relief lifts I had to install a new outlet) I have two Header water inlets and exits for great flow without pressure build up
The water that feeds my wet stacks is supplied now from the plug port (That is pipe plugged on your manifold) - I have a 90* elbow installed under the Thermostat housing on the intake manifold water crossover that runs to the hose that goes to the gate valve in between the 90 elbow and Header TEE to control flow to the wet stacks without interupting water flow exiting the engine. This gate valve is not disrupting "pressure". Adjust this gate till you get a fine mist from your Headers they don't need a bunch of water
The new route of the water exiting my engine is now from each fitting off of the Thermostat housing going to two "individual" dumps overboard