SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: fastnlight on May 15, 2013, 09:45:42 PM
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I have both a regulator and a gate valve and don't know why. Seems redundant. Anyone know why? Here is a pic:
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I have both a regulator and a gate valve and don't know why. Seems redundant. Anyone know why? Here is a pic:
So when the regulator fails they can remove the spring and regulate water the right way????
I dunno, I'm just makin' sh!t up.
That looks like a problem looking for a way to screw you IMHO...
GT
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Oh dude, is that a shower arm coming off the pump? That set up screams "oh hell no". I like the overall idea and that's why I'm doing something similar but the way it's executed is no bueno.
The excuses in my head as to why I like the idea. A gate valve is basically a variable size valve that can be used to regulate flow although not its intended purpose in life. The control of the "flow" determines how much cold water is pushed into the block and how much exits. So bam! there's why the gate valve is there. Now the pressure relief is there just in case something, weather it be a kinked hose, blocked water passage or the fact that your pump is just that fu€king awesome and wants to force feed your engine till it starts puking water out of the intake from over pressurizing the cooling system and blowing sh!t apart.
Btw I see no regulator just a relief valve, a regulator regulates the water coming in, a relief valve releases excess pressure from a system, notice the brass t runs from the pump to the motor and this relief is on top not in the way of the incoming flow.
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Oh dude, is that a shower arm coming off the pump? That set up screams "oh hell no". I like the overall idea and that's why I'm doing something similar but the way it's executed is no bueno.
The excuses in my head as to why I like the idea. A gate valve is basically a variable size valve that can be used to regulate flow although not its intended purpose in life. The control of the "flow" determines how much cold water is pushed into the block and how much exits. So bam! there's why the gate valve is there. Now the pressure release is there just in case something, weather it be a kinked hose, blocked water passage or the fact that your pump is just that ****!ing awesome and wants to force feed your engine till it starts puking water out of the intake from over pressurizing the system and blowing sh!t apart.
LMAO, that is an OEM Berkeley E or F pump, that is how the water line is set up from the factory... Too F-n funny...
GT
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Your lying Glenn, that's a dam shower arm. I have 30 of the things on my truck hmmm and there chrome......anyone want a factory chrome Berkeley water nipple. I sell fo 5 dalla
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The pressure regulator can get rid of water spikes and surges. It's a good idea to run both.
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LMAO, that is an OEM Berkeley E or F pump, that is how the water line is set up from the factory... Too F-n funny...
GT
Yep thats an E.
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Your lying Glenn, that's a dam shower arm. I have 30 of the things on my truck hmmm and there chrome......anyone want a factory chrome Berkeley water nipple. I sell fo 5 dalla
LOL! Here is the other side of my "shower arm".
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So when the regulator fails they can remove the spring and regulate water the right way????
I dunno, I'm just makin' sh!t up.
That looks like a problem looking for a way to screw you IMHO...
GT
Are you startin to see why I wanted to put in a water pressure gauge! LOL
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Oh dude, is that a shower arm coming off the pump? That set up screams "oh hell no". I like the overall idea and that's why I'm doing something similar but the way it's executed is no bueno.
The excuses in my head as to why I like the idea. A gate valve is basically a variable size valve that can be used to regulate flow although not its intended purpose in life. The control of the "flow" determines how much cold water is pushed into the block and how much exits. So bam! there's why the gate valve is there. Now the pressure relief is there just in case something, weather it be a kinked hose, blocked water passage or the fact that your pump is just that fu€king awesome and wants to force feed your engine till it starts puking water out of the intake from over pressurizing the cooling system and blowing sh!t apart.
Btw I see no regulator just a relief valve, a regulator regulates the water coming in, a relief valve releases excess pressure from a system, notice the brass t runs from the pump to the motor and this relief is on top not in the way of the incoming flow.
You bring up a good point. I think guys use the term Regulator and Relief Valve interchangeably as if they are the same thing when in fact they are not. Here is a pic of what I have and it is in fact, like you say, a Relief or "Dump Valve".
http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=792 (http://www.watts.com/pages/_products_details.asp?pid=792)
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The pressure regulator can get rid of water spikes and surges. It's a good idea to run both.
Now thats an answer I like. At least your not laughing your ass off at my setup like everyone else! HA HA
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Yah they get mixed up and it happens, I'm guilty of it to.
And dude, that's s long a$$ shower arm.
And Glenn I think I have the perfect solution to this whole Situation........a temp/pressure release valve from a water heater! BAM! Run a straight hose from the pump to motor hell might as well use copper and hard pipe/sweat it in. Thread said t/p valve into the back of the intake manifold and poof perfection. It opens up at 160 degrees or 180 psi. ;)
Problem solved. Done
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"And dude, that's s long a$$ shower arm."
Its made for midgets.
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I see now I should get one for my wife
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SoCal ... That is the funniest thing ive ever read. Funny funny funny. Im new to this site and I have been reading alot of posts just to have more info.
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"You guys" is a vague and generalized term.
I don't call it a regulator.
-beerjet-
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"You guys" is a vague and generalized term.
I don't call it a regulator.
-beerjet-
that's because you call it a chingaderas
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gate valve and regulator with a dump hose is the way it SHOULD be plumbed up. looks like you also have a hose fitting for flushing as well.
leave it alone.
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It opens up at 160 degrees or 180 psi. ;)
Problem solved. Done
id love to see your engine hold 180 psi... :screwy:
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My e pump dosent even have a water regulator on it... should I put one on?
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Love these threads
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id love to see your engine hold 180 psi... :screwy:
Anywhere..... :sly:
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Wheres your sense of living on the edge? Run that shit straight into the block ....no gate....no regulator. :screwy:
though its not the way i suggest anyone doing it, but its how the ultra is set up. During my slam session to get it back together, i just thought "well, its worked this long"....shrugged my shoulders and carried on.
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Hell yeah. Wide open full flow into block Braaaap. Bang.
Or go air cooled
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Wheres your sense of living on the edge? Run that shit straight into the block ....no gate....no regulator. :screwy:
though its not the way i suggest anyone doing it, but its how the ultra is set up. During my slam session to get it back together, i just thought "well, its worked this long"....shrugged my shoulders and carried on.
By any stretch of possibility, is it possible it still has the Berkeley nipple in the suction piece of the pump with the 1/4" hole?
Almost betting it does. In which case, it will work great.
GT
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By any stretch of possibility, is it possible it still has the Berkeley nipple in the suction piece of the pump with the 1/4" hole?
Almost betting it does. In which case, it will work great.
GT
where would i find this? got a pic of one?
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where would i find this? got a pic of one?
I don't have a picture, but it is part number S-14821, or 150-S-14821 depending on the date of your catalog. It is a cast piece, not the later chrome plated brass one.
99% of the ones I see have been changed out to a rigid nipple, which I hate because I broke on off at the pump once while river fishing.
I think I have one in the tool box somewhere. I will give it a shot.
They were a little funny looking.
GT
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I think they are both there cuz someone wanted the comfort of the relief valve set up (that I kinda favor in case u didnt read the most epic thread ever) and the good ole tried and true Gate that GT prefers.
I mean hey screw it u cant go wrong there.
All BS aside any idea what pressure that RV is set for. Any idea how open or closed that gate is. Make a witness mark then keep track how much u turn it closed then write that down for reference then open back to where it was. Then get a gauge remove inlet into ur motor use ur house garden hose and see what pressure that RV opens.
Im wondering if they were trying to control temp with the gate which is killing the water flow in reality. Thats another story Im just talking out laud on the two valves.
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Wheres your sense of living on the edge? Run that shit straight into the block ....no gate....no regulator. :screwy:
though its not the way i suggest anyone doing it, but its how the ultra is set up. During my slam session to get it back together, i just thought "well, its worked this long"....shrugged my shoulders and carried on.
Brad, the kona I just sold I ran all season like that. I did have a relief valve and gate valve set up and everything to put it on my boat ( I have it all for sale in another thread as proof lol) but I never got around to it. I just kept a pair of needle nose vice grips next to the diverter control just incase a hose popped. Never has a issue.
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Our temp and pressure is variable and in random order.
Just the way I like it. ;)
Now for a serious question..... oh never mind.