SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: ghett0man on July 24, 2015, 08:43:27 AM
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Gonna be rewiring the hallett in the next few months. Starting the planning stages and wanted to see if anyone has or has seen any different ideas for mounting the terminal block. We have all seen them off the back of the motor, but I was wondering if there is a better location since I'm going to rewire.
Currently I have this aluminum plate mounted to the back of the motor and underneath is the volt regulator, battery switch, and terminal block. I'd like to relocate for a couple reasons, mostly because it's ugly and I like the way the boat looks without this big plate (see pic).
The boats a 76 hallett bubbledeck 460 berk JC.
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Use plugs and get rid of the plate. If you need I will get some pictures later and send them to you.
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yeah! If i can remove the terminal block and replace with plug(s) thats way better. If you have pictures and/or a source I'd appreciate it. I can upgrade and relocate that battery switch.
I can also upgrade my ignition and get rid of the voltage regulator correct?
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Use plugs and get rid of the plate. If you need I will get some pictures later and send them to you.
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If you could post those pics, it would be appreciated.
Been trying to think of how to update the wiring.
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I can also upgrade my ignition and get rid of the voltage regulator correct?
You could use an internally regulated alternator. The voltage regulator doesn't influence the ignition.
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Lol. That's what I meant. Upgrade my alternator. Is it one of those one wire alternators?
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Mine is just one big harness over to the engine with a plug. I have a fuse block at the helm, and a fuse block in the back. Everythign is fused.
All signal wires are 14 gauge, the hot and ground wires from the back to the front are 10 gauge.
Battery cables are 1/0
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Mine is just one big harness over to the engine with a plug. I have a fuse block at the helm, and a fuse block in the back. Everythign is fused.
All signal wires are 14 gauge, the hot and ground wires from the back to the front are 10 gauge.
Battery cables are 1/0
Good info Steve. Thanks.
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yeah! If i can remove the terminal block and replace with plug(s) thats way better. If you have pictures and/or a source I'd appreciate it. I can upgrade and relocate that battery switch.
I can also upgrade my ignition and get rid of the voltage regulator correct?
I have a picture of the battery switch and the ignition switch. When I get home tonight I will get I will get the rest of the pictures you need.
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http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml (http://www.whiteproducts.com/connectors.shtml)
they have connectors from 1 wire to 6 wire. You could easily make it a nice weather tight connection with these.
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Good info everyone. Thanks
Steve where did you mount the fuse block in the rear?
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Good info everyone. Thanks
Steve where did you mount the fuse block in the rear?
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I bought a 10 way fuse block from ebay with a clear plastic cover. Cut it in half and have one up front and one in back.
I mounted a piece of 1/4" aluminum to the transom and drilled/tapped that for screws to mount the fuesblock to
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Nice. Thanks Steve. That's kind of what I was thinking about doing.
You have every wore going through a fuse?
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Nice. Thanks Steve. That's kind of what I was thinking about doing.
You have every wore going through a fuse?
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Not every wire just any power wire...
Fuel pump relay, Bilge pump, gauges, MSD box, second bilge pump, you get the idea
The sending units are wired directly to the gauges
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Nice I'm digging this thread I'm in the same boat haaha cheesy as fxck
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I'm a big friggen cheater. I use Mercruiser style canon plug wiring harnesses.
The cool part is that I can disconnect the electrical to the engine in mere seconds.
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I used an msd style quick disconnect
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I used an msd style quick disconnect
. Nicely done sir
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Very clean. I like that.
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I used an msd style quick disconnect
Super clean Sean!! 👍👍
"RTCP"
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I have a picture of the battery switch and the ignition switch. When I get home tonight I will get I will get the rest of the pictures you need.
I like how you mounted the forward reverse
Any more pictures or reason for that? My thought it to keep the least about of bends out of cable...
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All my wiring comes up from the front, then underneath my intake runners (Air Gap manifold). There are zero wires coming from the back of my engine.
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What are your guys thoughts on the west marine 8 wire looms?
I was thinking of using it to go from the fuse panel to the dash. And whatever else. You can get it in multiple gauges and its ~$2.00 a foot. Might be nice for accessories and gauges. Easy and clean.
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Last night....I was drunk for a week.
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Not bad. Can also look into trailer wiring
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I used GM Delphi-Weatherpac connectors, from 1-6 pins all crimped&soldered with rubber seals. Got a kit on EBay for like 85.00, comes with male and female pins in 2 gauges of wire. Came with pin removal tool and case for all.
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Cool. I've been looking at various connectors. I was wondering if anyone had experience in that particular wire. There is a lot of options out there.
When I do it this winter I'll do a tutorial on how I do it for future reference.
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Last night....I was drunk for a week.
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I like how you mounted the forward reverse
Any more pictures or reason for that? My thought it to keep the least about of bends out of cable...
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. Just looks cleaner and easier to use there. One less thing to get hung up on if you get thrown out over 100 mph.
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. Just looks cleaner and easier to use there. One less thing to get hung up on if you get thrown out over 100 mph.
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I might look into doing that looks bitchen
My current original set up. Need to do a steering extension and move stringer mount foot throttle back
Original owner must have been really tall
Did you keep your wiring all clean an hidden?
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I might look into doing that looks bitchen
My current original set up. Need to do a steering extension and move stringer mount foot throttle back
Original owner must have been really tall
Did you keep your wiring all clean an hidden?
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. I did the best I could to keep it hidden in clean. Unfortunately weight was the number one concern. But is clean for the most part.
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What are your guys thoughts on the west marine 8 wire looms?
I was thinking of using it to go from the fuse panel to the dash. And whatever else. You can get it in multiple gauges and its ~$2.00 a foot. Might be nice for accessories and gauges. Easy and clean.
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Last night....I was drunk for a week.
I have a bunch of 18/8 how many feet are you looking for
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. I did the best I could to keep it hidden in clean. Unfortunately weight was the number one concern. But is clean for the most part.
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It's very clean, I know when I saw it in person I had a hard time not drooling all over it lol
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The last boat I wired, I used a 7-way cable for semi trailers and Cat. style weather-pac connectors. For the engine, I did just like Sean did with one plug.
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Looks like I'll be doing the same since I work on cats haha good idea
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. Just looks cleaner and easier to use there. One less thing to get hung up on if you get thrown out over 100 mph.
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Pretty good idea... wished I thought of something like that... lol!
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Pretty good idea... wished I thought of something like that... lol!
. I thought you were the guy that came up with this setup.
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It's very clean, I know when I saw it in person I had a hard time not drooling all over it lol
Sent from my garage drinking a cold beer!!!
X2 on that!
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When I wired my blown EFI Nordic I had a lot of wires to contend with. I also used the weatherpak connectors and crimped them with the special tool and also soldered them. I could unplug it all in 10 minutes and it would be free of the engine and EFI set up.
(https://www.socaljetboats.com/proxy.php?request=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.tjsperformance.com%2Fimages%2Fblown_nordic06.JPG&hash=148b343bfa4763c6085db1bbf615b7ce90baece3)
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. I thought you were the guy that came up with this setup.
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Yeah... I always hated the left side fwd/rev... figured being on the right made more sense to people with floor shifters... plus down low makes it out of sight and therefore clean.
I was just being a smartass. ;D
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Yeah... I always hated the left side fwd/rev... figured being on the right made more sense to people with floor shifters... plus down low makes it out of sight and therefore clean.
I was just being a smartass. ;D
. We have changed all the boats to this setup that we have worked on and love it.
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