Lift that right foot a little.....

So the new I just built las season seems to ave quite a bit of blow-by. Its a 468bbc,990 heads, Not positive on comp ratio. SLR cam, 500 lift. MSD ign. Wieand team G intake, holley 850.
I've got oil coming out of my breathers, I am going to setup a puke tank, but what can I do to not hide the problem, but fix it? Are new rings necessary?

You should leak down the engine to help determine how severe the problem is, and how consistent it is from one cylinder to the next.  Is the engine using much oil?

With proper breathers, you should not need a puke tank.

I got a leak down tester brandon. ....we'll check the compression too.

Hey Brad

You know to listen for where the air is escaping to determine what the problem is,,right?  Through the carb or exhaust for intake and exhaust valves,, but more likely in this case you will hear air in the crankcase indicating the rings.

thanks for the tip. i havent used it yet so its gunna be a learning experience.

If you want more help,, PM for my phone number. 

You will want the valve covers off,, and if you have a deadblow or rubber mallet it can be helpful.

I have a billet pcv that I pulled the valve out of, to use it as a puke tank line, so no not at this time. My valve cover do not have oil baffles, if they did, I probably wouldn't even be aware of this. I am running a HV oil pump, and run 70ish oil psi. Own to 35 after a hard run, and slowly builds back up. Running 20w-50 now, switching to 50w with oil change in a few days

I was gonna say the same thing, stay with the 20-50. Straight weight oil is for generators and bulldozers..... Thats what an old timer from Quaker State used to tell me. 

The puking? Well, I think Glenn pointed out why! 

Ray

Skips boat used to be good for a quart or two all over the bilge after a day on the river, I think new baffled VC solved his

Fuck a puke tank, it's not a dragster. I used these on tall valve covers and it cured my problem. I also agree with the 50WT, I run VR1 50 and there's still plenty of the ZDDP in it. I had a syn/dyno 20/50 blend in it earlier this year, you wouldn't believe what the oil temps looked like!

 

or spend the extra money on this puppy right here



The anti-cavitation models feature specifically machined grooves in the housing and cover to reduce cavitation effects in high RPM applications. The included driveshaft - idler shaft have been extended in both the housing and cover, eliminating dynamic shaft deflection at increased RPM levels. The cover is doweled to the pump housing to ensure shaft bore alignment. The gears are billet steel, and the pump relief valve has a screw-in plug instead of a pin. The pickup screen hole is machined to use original press-fit screens. The housing and cover are CNC-machined and then coated with manganese phosphate for rust prevention and longevity. A stock pressure spring is also included to reduce bypass pressure if needed. With this pump design, oil pressure is slightly reduced at idle.

I run this with a 20-50 lucas synthetic, and it is loaded with zddp...my oil pressure dips down to 30, but on the go pedal its at like 75

So  if my oil pressure stays at 70 until I run it hard for a exteneded time  and drops to 40 , its because the oil temp is heating up and breaking down the viscosity of the oil ?

Well sort of but for the most part, yeah. The viscosity does not "break down" but more like lowers on the index...Breaking down sort of makes me think that it wont come back, it does...

Running a multi vis oil can make slop count the same as skill, but it needs to be thought of carefully....  FWIW 20W-50 means 20 wt when it is cold (W=winter) and 50 wt when it heats up to its optimum operating temp....Pass that and it drops back down (get's thinner)...

If your warm motors oil pressure is normally say 50 pounds and after a hard run the oil pressure drops by say 10 pounds, then your viscosity index has dropped by 20%...

The only way to know for sure is with an oil temperature gauge.

I would not be alarmed unless the pressure really drops below say a 50% index (in other words if normal "warm" oil runs at 50 PSI and hot drops to 25 PSI)...

You have to keep in mind the oil on say a big block Chevy does not hit a cooled area of the block anywhere but where the oil can splash up on the under side of the cylinders and the pistons are stupid hot....Add to that foamy or aerated liquid and it really does not want to give it's heat up....

The coolest place the oil touches is while it is in the area in the head and it is not there long. Then we try to control windage by installing a tray and whatnot adding further to the issue....

Oil coolers are the bomb... But can be over done. I really like a 200-240 degree oil temp with a  140 degree water temp, but I have been told I am not normal Keeping it on the dry side on a marine application will keep the engines interior from developing rust/oxidization. It really depends how hard and for how long you are going to run it...

Don't take what I say as gospel, it's different strokes for different folks....I also run synthetic oils which are more hearty on the higher end of the scale as far as temps.... Dinosaur piss is a different story. 

GT

I also agree with the 50WT, I run VR1 50 and there's still plenty of the ZDDP in it. I had a syn/dyno 20/50 blend in it earlier this year, you wouldn't believe what the oil temps looked like!

Skip,

I did some hunting around and I found out that the VR1 50 wt. VI is only 105, whereas the Amsoil Racing 50 wt checked in at 140....The higher the number the better at retaining it's actual viscosity at different temps, thought it was interesting...funny thing about the blends too, they tend to drop off at high temps but  interestingly enough, Castrol Syntec for example does not publish the VI, or at least make it easy to find... .....Something to hide?

GT

Thanks for the info GT. My only problem with Amsoil is this, I can't get it @ the local parts house. I had Lucas Racing 20/50 (with a ZDDP additive) in it when I went to Parker in March. The run to the dam from Roadrunner I hit 280-320 F on my oil temp, pressure was in the 40 range hot, 25 at hot idle. I switched back to the VRI 50 wt and on a longer run my temp never bettered 250, pressure never dropped below 60. I'm liking the Valvoline 

They carry Amsoil in Auto Zone here........Maybe cuz of all the farms around??? Who knows, but it's there!

Ray

What do you think of Royal Purple? Before I switched, the engine would cruise at 45-50 psi when hot and then drop down to 25-30 psi at idle. This was with a conventional Chevron Supreme 10w40 we sell at the shop. After I switched to Royal Purple my bbc now cruises at 50-55 psi hot and drops down to around 40 at idle. I checked RP's site and found no info on the VI rating.

Why do you think that is?

Not knocking the Royal Purple, but they have better marketing than oil....My buddy uses it and swears to it, but I am not convinced.

GT