SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: shellgetoverit on August 07, 2007, 10:42:57 AM
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any ideas on starter grinding and noise i bought a brand new starter for my 454 and shimmed it it sounds fine after cranking it a coule times then it starts to grind and make very not awesome noises dammit this sucks help please
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what kind of starter did you get, i had the same problem when i put a high torque starter on my 454, would be fine for 10-15 cranks then grind like hell, tried various shims no help, put a stock starter on and cranks fine, i would also like a solution to this, as i would prefer the smaller. lighter, stronger high torque model
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i would also like a solution to this, as i would prefer the smaller. lighter, stronger high torque model
I know buy a Ford >:D O0
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I know buy a Ford >:D O0
I already have a good anchor ;D
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the starter is a autolite ro from checker it was cranking good with no shims then i put some gas in the carb to try and start it and the starter started grinding again o and the oil is kind of milky should i change it and be alright or do i need to pull the motor and do work
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I am not an expert. I've never used shims on a Chevrolet starter but I've also never used a high torque starter. I've never needed a high torque starter. A friend of mine used to have a Chevrolet with 12.5:1 compression, he didn't use one either. Actually, I'm not even sure if they made them back then. I'm guessing that the high torque models use shims ??? . I've never had starter alignment problems with a Chevrolet.
As far as the water in oil goes, change the oil and check it again after running it. Do you run headers or logs, if logs what kind of snails - staright or curved?
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The main reason it is necessary to shim a Chevy starter is because remanufactured starter housings are bead blasted every time it is rebuild and looses a little material every time. This along with slight casting flaws with the blocks and starters cause the starter drive to be to close to the flexplate. Most high torque starters are using a new nose cone and don't require any shims.
As far as your starter grinding after a short time, I would guess that it has a bushing that is tight that starts to drag when it gets hot.
What was the reason for replacing the previous starter anyway?
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Are you 100% positive you're using the stock Chevrolet starter bolts? They have knurls on them at the beginning of the threads and the knurls are used to line up the starter.
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Are you 100% positive you're using the stock Chevrolet starter bolts? They have knurls on them at the beginning of the threads and the knurls are used to line up the starter.
doh, I forgot to mention the bolt thing.
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Chevy starters are supposed to have an L shaped bracket from the stud on the front of the starter to the block above the pan rail. If not installed, the starter will move away from the flywheel/flexplate after a few starts. Most parts guys have trouble finding the part#, the wrecking yard is a good place to score one. Also, the bigblock and smallblock ones are different. TIMINATOR
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Chevy starters are supposed to have an L shaped bracket from the stud on the front of the starter to the block above the pan rail. If not installed, the starter will move away from the flywheel/flexplate after a few starts. Most parts guys have trouble finding the part#, the wrecking yard is a good place to score one. Also, the bigblock and smallblock ones are different. TIMINATOR
Thanks! I'll put mine on.
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1st off Chevy Starters suck...period
Most of them sound like a dieing Beaver.
Sometimes the flywheel starts to wear out after enough grinds between the gears. Not sure if this is your problem, look at the teeth on the old starters to see if the corner of the teeth on the gears are becoming clean bare metal. My buddy's truck we put 4 starters in before we realized it was the flywheel, but that was a BBF which is kinda unusal.