Post by: willowvalley on August 14, 2015, 08:49:47 AM
I have a lighting stringer mount foot plate and the angle changes a lot as you move it closer to the seat the pedal almost faces the passenger. I'm thinking of just cutting up the base that I have and taking small increments off the make it fit right but I've also seen some trick 1/2 tube style mounts That use the foot plate mounted off it as well.
What's the best way to mock up is my main question as I will also need to drill into my tunnel to mount it.
What's the best way to mock up
This is the old mounting location deep under the dash
Original owner was really tall with he seats set up for only a 2 bucket set up now I'll be pulling the steering wheel out 4-6 inches.
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Post by: Flusher on August 15, 2015, 11:54:37 AM
It sounds like your seat and steering are already mounted. If so, your objective now is to place the throttle pedal in a position that is comfortable to you. That is, unless you are willing to relocate the seat and possibly the steering.
Temporarily mock up the pedal and sit in the seat (while making engine noises) and see how it feels. Readjust until it feels comfortable. Sometimes small spacers can help, sometimes major surgery is required.
On the tunnel boats, we make a pedal assembly that spans between the two stringers on a bar supported by flange bearings. The arm that actuates the cable is fixed to the bar that rotates in the flange bearings. The pedal itself is clamped to the bar. This allows easily adjustable positioning of the pedal. This is important because we commonly rig boats with two holes drilled in the deck for the steering. These holes are sized so that a tachometer is installed in the one opposite the steering. This allows the boat to be configured for either two front seats or single center steer.
Regardless of how you rig your throttle, it should have a substantial positive stop. The stop will be subject to some heavy forces when the adrenaline is pumping and you're trying to leg press the pedal through the hull, trying to get just a little more throttle to win the race. Do not rely on the carb stop. The shaft could be bent, causing it to stick WFO. The butterflies can be overcentered. Nevertheless, no good will come from it. Always verify that you have smooth action and a snappy return to closed throttle. A double redundant spring installed on the pedal is also a good idea. There is a lot more mass of all the components in the throttle installed in a boat compared to in a car. I would never rely on the spring(s) on the carb linkage only.
Cheers,
Joe
Post by: willowvalley on August 15, 2015, 01:17:04 PM
What do those run if you sell them?
As of today I'm doing some cleaning mock up ideas
I could make a new base mount for this old set up I have to put the front closer to the passenger and drop the rear angle down to tow it back in towards driver...
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Post by: willowvalley on August 15, 2015, 01:24:38 PM
I think ergonomics is the most important. Seat placement will dictate throttle pedal location. We do mostly drag race rigging, but recently, we have been rigging some circle boats and even some v-drives. The drag boat philosophy carries over into other applications, however compromises are made. The common objective is move the driver as far back from the deck as possible. We make up to an 18" steering column for the Calgo to facilitate safe egress of the driver. Compromises begin when the boat is no longer intended as a dedicated race boat. More so when a back seat is desired.
It sounds like your seat and steering are already mounted. If so, your objective now is to place the throttle pedal in a position that is comfortable to you. That is, unless you are willing to relocate the seat and possibly the steering.
Temporarily mock up the pedal and sit in the seat (while making engine noises) and see how it feels. Readjust until it feels comfortable. Sometimes small spacers can help, sometimes major surgery is required.
On the tunnel boats, we make a pedal assembly that spans between the two stringers on a bar supported by flange bearings. The arm that actuates the cable is fixed to the bar that rotates in the flange bearings. The pedal itself is clamped to the bar. This allows easily adjustable positioning of the pedal. This is important because we commonly rig boats with two holes drilled in the deck for the steering. These holes are sized so that a tachometer is installed in the one opposite the steering. This allows the boat to be configured for either two front seats or single center steer.
Regardless of how you rig your throttle, it should have a substantial positive stop. The stop will be subject to some heavy forces when the adrenaline is pumping and you're trying to leg press the pedal through the hull, trying to get just a little more throttle to win the race. Do not rely on the carb stop. The shaft could be bent, causing it to stick WFO. The butterflies can be overcentered. Nevertheless, no good will come from it. Always verify that you have smooth action and a snappy return to closed throttle. A double redundant spring installed on the pedal is also a good idea. There is a lot more mass of all the components in the throttle installed in a boat compared to in a car. I would never rely on the spring(s) on the carb linkage only.
Cheers,
Joe
Thank you for the detailed response
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Post by: Flusher on August 15, 2015, 01:33:34 PM
I do recall that a member here posted one for sale not too long ago. I will look for that post.
Post by: Flusher on August 15, 2015, 01:51:28 PM
If you are near the I-10 and 215 interchange in San Bernardino, you could make all of that in my class, starting Tuesday, August 18th at San Bernardino Valley College machine shop.
Post by: Flusher on August 15, 2015, 01:55:45 PM
I have this dual Stringer mount. I kniw it's probably not what your looking for just putting it out there
Post by: willowvalley on August 15, 2015, 03:27:05 PM
And now for the shameless self-whoring:
If you are near the I-10 and 215 interchange in San Bernardino, you could make all of that in my class, starting Tuesday, August 18th at San Bernardino Valley College machine shop.
I would just need specs I have a friend that owns a machine shop here in orange
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