SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: GT Jets on January 10, 2009, 05:49:03 PM
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There has been a lot of discussion about the use of synthetic oil products in high and standard performance applications.
There are few things you should know before switching from a petrolium based oil to synthetics...
First off, the molecular structure of synthetic is much smaller than that of a petrolium based oil... That being said, there are some things I bet no one ever thought of, but I guarantee are true.
1. There will probably be oil leaks when first switched. Being smaller on the molecular level means it goes places ordinary oil does not go, for an example; through the oil seals on the crankshaft and camshaft (overhead deal) and sometimes even gasketed surfaces (rare), in fact that is actually how synthetic oils work, the best example I can give would be to think of the oil as a bunch of golf balls, now think of conventional oil like base balls, now take a bunch of base balls and put them in a funnel with a hole slightly larger than the ball, if you tried to "pour" the baseballs throught the funnel, they would bunch up and get lodged in the outlet, now try the same experiment with the golf balls...they wont even slow down...The oils will do the same thing throught he oil control rings in an engine, you may see a slight oil useage for the first few oil changes, so that being said, plan on staying with the synthetic once you switch (it's not recommended to go back and forth).
2. Your oil changes will become less frequent when switching also, this is because the oil breaks down at a much lower temp than the synthetic, the synthetic will last for long periods of time, with some simple monitering and filter changes should be able to vertually triple the amount of run time between changes...I recomend getting the syn. oil analyzed by a specro analyzer for the first few filter changes (it is recommended to change the filter on the recommended oil change interval of the manufacturer of the engine). These items should be taken into consideration for cost when/if you decide to switch...It makes the cost difference of the oil much smaller.
3. There will also (most times) be a slight (measureable) decrease in fuel consumtion as well, the reason is friction reduction, may be less realized in newer vehicles due to engine technologies (roller cams and what-not).
I have been using synthetics in all of my vehicles for years and am familiar with the different manufacturers of oils, there are a lot of differences, meaning not all synthetics are the same. I am going to start inserting some random Amsoil info as far as testing results and what not, not trying to sell anyone anything, just out of interest...Let me know if there are any questions, if I don't have the answer, I will find it......
Thanks.
GT
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Great thread GT...Been using Amsoil for years. Keep the info coming...
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Thanks povertyjet, got any stories or comparisons? Positive or negative......Trying to keep it "real".
GT
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Well lately, I have it in my Kona and '99 Suburban. When I switched over to Amsoil, I let the engine warm up, I left the old oil in, put on a Silver Napa filter, added the Amsoil engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. Then I drained the oil, changed the filter to a new Napa Gold, and put in the 20-50. The oil in the suburban is as clean today as it was 7,000 miles ago...I still change filters at about 3k miles, although with the extended drain I probably don't have to The flush made the end of the dipstick look like it was polished, I know it cleaned the top end!!!
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Well lately, I have it in my Kona and '99 Suburban. When I switched over to Amsoil, I let the engine warm up, I left the old oil in, put on a Silver Napa filter, added the Amsoil engine flush and let it idle for 30 minutes. Then I drained the oil, changed the filter to a new Napa Gold, and put in the 20-50. The oil in the suburban is as clean today as it was 7,000 miles ago...I still change filters at about 3k miles, although with the extended drain I probably don't have to The flush made the end of the dipstick look like it was polished, I know it cleaned the top end!!!
Amazing how clean it stays, do you have a bypass filter? I don't have one on the Honda (CRV) but have one for the '05 Powerstroke, just have not installed it yet, it only has 18,000 miles on it... :screwy:
BTW the racing oils (Amsoil) do have the added zinc content missing from conventional oils... :sly:
GT
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nope just the stock filter location...I will put a remote filter on the Kona
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nope just the stock filter location...I will put a remote filter on the Kona
Not just a remote filter, bypass filter, pretty bitchen...Cleans a small amount of oil anytime the engine runs, very fine particulate filter.
They also make a remote filter kit with a built in bypass filter....
http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/bf.aspx
GT
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Yah, Nice stuff GT. I have use the Oil guard system for bypass and synthetic, different brand. It’s awesome, I run to 20k between oil changes. I use to have it analyzed, but after I got a history I stopped. I should have it checked every other or every third change to see how the engine is doing, but you know how that goes. The bypass is the ticket, truckers have been using them for years. My oil at 10k is still see threw, you can still read the writing on the dipstick. I have a 01 Powerstroke. I read a story about a Semi that had over a million miles on it. When it was pulled down for something else, there was no measurable wear in the cylinders. Amazing, and the principal is basic, makes a ton of sense. schick
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Hey GT,
My shop has had two Workhorse chassis motorhomes (GM 8.1L gas V8) with an Amsoil by-pass filter installed. Both had excessive oil consumption problems. The first one we suspected it might have been part of the problem and on the second one I'm confident it was the cause. The reason I'm so sure is the installers ran the oil return lines into the oil fill tube that is connected to the front of the intake manifold. The PCV system is built into the intake manfold and the problem is cause by the constant flow of oil down the fill tube as the engine is running. The oil is gets sucked into the pcv system and starts causing all kinds of problems.
I don't blame the filter kit, I blame the installers use of the fill tube as an oil return to the engine.
Maybe you can pass this information on to other Amsoil dealers to help inform there clients.
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crewchief, I have seen this exact scenario on a 302 ford in a Bronco (same PCV setup), the best way to get the return back to the motor is the drain plug in the pan using a banjo fitting, or into the valvecover without the fill. where were they pulling the oil from?, sometimes I have seen them use a port in the oil cooler, I don't like it, seems wrong, I like to come right off the oil pressure gauge port, that comes right from the oil pump, the bypass kits use up some pumping ability (less than 10%), so that makes the most sense to me...
Thanks for the info!
My motorhome has a fitting brazed into the oil pan for the return, motorhomes can be a challenge sometimes, especially class C's.
GT
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Both used the oil pressure port for supply, but the return was the problem.
The first client wanted us to put a bung into his aluminum oil pan but declined when told how much it would be to remove the pan to have it done.
The second had the system disconnected until he could decide what to do with it (it was on the coach when purchased used, so he had no connection to it).
Good information GT, keep it coming ;D