SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: steves86ta on February 09, 2016, 03:21:31 PM
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Theoretical question, would love to hear everyone's opinions
Stock engine in a jet boat with a mild shot of nitrous. Lets say a 100 shot of nitrous, all precautions taken correctly. Opened up ring gap, good piston to wall clearance, good bearing clearance, retarded timing, good fuel, etc.
Let's say the engine turns an even 4000 RPM off of the nitrous and an even 5000 RPM on the nitrous at WOT.
Compared to running said engine in a car, what is actually harder on the engine? Spraying the nitrous when at MAX RPM then letting it climb to the new max of 5000, or in a car application where you spray at 3500->shift point, shift, then spray again?
Lets further confuse the question, by saying you spray both applicaitons the same amount of time, 7 seconds for example. What would you think would be more abusive/wear and tear?
If i had to guess, and i have no evidence or experience to back this up. I would guess the Jet boat would be "easier" on the engine than in a car. But i really dont know
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Just wondering when your hitting the nos on your boat ?
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Just wondering when your hitting the nos on your boat ?
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I make sure my pump is loaded and I'm at wot rpm before I spray.
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Just wondering when your hitting the nos on your boat ?
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. It all depends on the boat and setup. The flatter your boat will launch the quicker you can get to the button. Mine is a half sec into the run. Also depends on the size of the shot.
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Thank u ... ? U have a good question here .. I'm curious on this one...
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! Not ? On the thanks
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It all boils down to the tune.
All things being equal, of there is no detonation or lean conditions, other than more power going through the bottom end, I say either way.
It's also my opinion that jet boat engine has a life way easier than that of a car as far as this particular example.
The boat engine does not have to "pull a gear", life is easy at the bottom and progressively gets harder. A car is screwed from the start.
GT
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I know from car exsp in my teens that a stock rod sbc will bend the rods when you squeeze a 250 shot from 1500 rpm lol.
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Although they hang in there if you wait till 3000 rpm
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I know from car exsp in my teens that a stock rod sbc will bend the rods when you squeeze a 250 shot from 1500 rpm lol.
Lol yeah, i think thats really my question. And the root of my question is because im curioius how much spray mysetup can take.
I have many friends with 5.3's that they are spraying more nitrous and a lot longer than i do. And they never even opened theirs up.
im considering bumping my shot up but at the same time i dont want to kill it. If that even makes sense
I still feel its "easier" on an engine in a boat in this aspect
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Well once you get to 50% of nitrous HP against engine HP it gets dangerous. Such as a 500 HP engine with 250 shot is 50%.
Yeah you should always have your tune up on point but once your close, at or above 50%, you better be on top of your shit or POW. Now you have binoculars instead of piston thanks to the piston goddess lol. With that being said, a 150 shot is where the saftey factor comes in. The lower percentage of nitrous HP vs engine HP you have a greater margin of error. So to answer you question, go play with a small tune up and read your plugs. Get to know what they look like and how bottle presure changes the spark plugs along with fuel presure. Bottle presure will change, go less aka cold after spraying it because of flow. Weird but it does. Fuel presure will change throughout the day from temptress of the day and some regulators will just change. Therfore knowing this stuff on your system is good saftey knowledge. Go play and watch your system for changes so you can keep adjusting if needed. Because if you don't you'll be like others saying nitrous is bad for a engine and it's not.
BTW. Read the bottle. It's not flammable. Lol. Damn fast and furious bullshit.
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Well once you get to 50% of nitrous HP against engine HP it gets dangerous. Such as a 500 HP engine with 250 shot is 50%.
Yeah you should always have your tune up on point but once your close, at or above 50%, you better be on top of your shit or POW. Now you have binoculars instead of piston thanks to the piston goddess lol. With that being said, a 150 shot is where the saftey factor comes in. The lower percentage of nitrous HP vs engine HP you have a greater margin of error. So to answer you question, go play with a small tune up and read your plugs. Get to know what they look like and how bottle presure changes the spark plugs along with fuel presure. Bottle presure will change, go less aka cold after spraying it because of flow. Weird but it does. Fuel presure will change throughout the day from temptress of the day and some regulators will just change. Therfore knowing this stuff on your system is good saftey knowledge. Go play and watch your system for changes so you can keep adjusting if needed. Because if you don't you'll be like others saying nitrous is bad for a engine and it's not.
BTW. Read the bottle. It's not flammable. Lol. Damn fast and furious bullshit.
Ha... Yeah im aware that its not flammable.. at all...
Currently, im spraying a 150 my plugs look excellent. And 0 speckling or anything like that. I am pulling 6 degrees out when spraying overkill i know.
Last time out, i sprayed throughout the day at different times/temps. The wideband still read about the same no matter what. Which was in the 10.5-10.8 range while spraying. Its way on the fat side and im jetted 63n/55f
I run either VP110 or F&L SP-3 (113) while on the bottle, and it just feeds both the engine/nitrous system.
Another question i have is in regards to the fuel line
My setup is as follows...
-10 from the cells to a 1/2 npt valve (so i can switch tanks)
-10 to the fuel pump (magna 275)
-8 from the fuel pump to a -8 Y
-8 from the Y to the carb regulator and then -8 all the way to the carb
-8 reduced to -4 from the Y to the nitrous regulator and then -4 all the way to the solenoid
I recently changed my carb from -6 to -8 and i have all the fittings and line to convert the nitrous side over. My question is, how much will the -4 support?
I mean, the solenoid fitting is only 1/8pipe. -4 already is equivelant to 1/4 pipe. For nothing more than a 250 shot, is the -4 sufficient?
Is it more of a volume thing? kind of having a "reserve"going into the solenoid?
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I'd run -10 all the way to the inlet of the regulators. Then -6 from regular or to carbs and from regulator to the fuel solenoid. That's pretty standard.
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My fuel set up has the pro 500 pump. -10 from tank to pump. -10 from the pump to the regulators. The -6 from the regulators to carbs and fuel solenoid. Having the fuel block is nice and clean for the regulators.
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I really dont wanna do anymore fuel line if i dont have to.
The entire lenth of the fuel system in this boat is MAYBE 5 feet.
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I really dont wanna do anymore fuel line if i dont have to.
The entire lenth of the fuel system in this boat is MAYBE 5 feet.
. You have no need -10 is to support 1500 hp
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Hmmmm Robbie Ward is a personal friend of mine and the owner of Magnafuel and designed my fuel system.
Enough said.
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Hmmmm Robbie Ward is a personal friend of mine and the owner of Magnafuel and designed my fuel system.
Enough said.
No one said your setup was wrong. Infact your setup is probably perfect. Is it Overkill? Probably not in your case, but in mine i think its overkill.
Infact i honestly think what i have already is overkill lol
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True. Robbie knows my normal to change thing bigger and bigger so he sent me what I've got lol. Although with yours I'd like to see your -4 line to the solenoid changed to a -6. Yeah the -4 will support ehh 200-250 but bigger is always better on fuel side of nitrous.
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I've got spare parts if you need them. Let me know.