Null


beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Best mods on 088 heads
« on: March 09, 2014, 01:21:27 PM »
500 inch NA motor.
Can't afford aluminum heads so I'd like to make these work as good as possible with our going overboard.

This is all hypothetical at this point since all I really have is heads and a block.

-beerjet-

  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #1 on: March 09, 2014, 10:07:29 PM »
Ok....
Better question....
Anyone know who does good port work?

-beerjet-

  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #2 on: March 09, 2014, 11:48:59 PM »
I would be happy to do the adjustable rocker stud conversion for you.
  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #3 on: March 10, 2014, 12:19:22 AM »
I would be happy to do the adjustable rocker stud conversion for you.
talk to me!

-beerjet-

  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

Marcsrollin

  • Karma: +33/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #4 on: March 10, 2014, 02:06:42 AM »
Bostick Racing Engines 619-792-3885

Bitchen port work!
  • Boat #1: 1978 TX-19 Youngblood
  • Boat #2: 1994 24 foot Sundancer Pontoon
  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
Taco'd "a person or people that show up with one lake lice and a family of 50 and cram 3 people at a time on it with no disregard to boating rules or ethics. Usualy crap in toilets and throw shit paper in trash cans. Hang out at the boat ramp like its a swimming hole. Have zero insurance on anything they own and dont give two shits less about your property."

Flusher

  • Karma: +84/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #5 on: March 10, 2014, 02:12:12 AM »
I have done this before on a Cleveland, but it is similar on your heads.  The rocker stud pedestals need to be rethreaded to 7/16-14UNC and the height might need to be cut down to compensate for the height difference between the original non-adjustable rocker studs and guide plates and the new adjustable Mk4 style rocker studs and guide plates.

Crane Cams (and others) makes a conversion kit (99152-16) that is a 7/16-20UNF rocker stud on one side and a 3/8-16UNC on the other side.  Here is a quote from the Crane Cams catalog, “The Crane 99152-16 ‘big-and-small’ studs are not recommended for use in competition applications, or with valve spring open pressures over 480 lbs. For those applications use 99157-16 7/16” x 7/16” studs (you must drill and re-tap new threads in the heads) and 13650-1 guideplates.”  Seems like that defeats the purpose of installing this kit.  Note:  The guideplates need to match your pushrod diameter.

I really like the ARP quality and workmanship.  Here is a quote from the ARP catalog, “it is highly advisable to determine what the optimum rocker arm stud length is for your particular application. This is especially true when “long” pushrods and valves are employed – you should raise the “installed height” of the rocker arm to compensate for the longer-than-stock components.”  I would like to keep the length of the stud as short as possible while not allowing the fillet radii to interfere with the rocker’s range of motion.

Once you figure out a little more about what other work you want to do, such as longer valves, we can make this happen.
  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
"I want to roll with my brother Joe" - Joe Bateman - January 29, 1950 ~ November 27, 2013

Six-Oh-Nine

  • Karma: +28/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #6 on: March 11, 2014, 04:52:11 PM »
Ok....
Better question....
Anyone know who does good port work?

-beerjet-

I know a guy... 8)

You can do and get quite a bit more than people give these heads credit for. In this day of being able to buy super rad big heads, a lot of folks just kinda dismiss what you can get away with on a gm casting. Granted, they lack on the exhaust side compared to aftermarket, but not enough to not consider them on a 500 inch big block. The stud conversion really depends on what you're going to do with the thing, what sort of rpm and spring pressures. Flat tappets and typically a hydraulic roller or small solid roller will be fine with the conversion studs in a typical river boat . Something that is going to see rpm and or run a decent sized solid roller with stout springs to match... then even machining to accept the 7/16-7/16 studs is really not a big deal... I do it all the time as using the seat and guide machine makes it a snap. Port work is gonna be something that you're going to want to do to get what you can afford out of these heads. Cheap, easy way to get some flow improvement and lighten your valve train and also broaden your selection of valves is to install 11/32 valves either by going with .342 id bronze guides or installing guide liners in the existing iron guides (depending on how "inexpensive" you wish to go) You're gonna need valves anyway, might as well as get something that's gonna kill two birds with one stone. Obviously, the best way to achieve the clearance and finish you want will be to hone to size, which we do on ALL guides. Depending on what fuel you plan on running, a good set of hardened exhaust seats if you plan on running unleaded. Open the intake up to 2.25 and stick with the 1.88 exhaust. You will want at a minimum a decent valve job and all you valve heights exactly the same (so all your geometry will actually all be the same), and chambers all the same (you'd be amazed at how far this stuff can be off , even done by "professionals")

Basically, it all really boils down to your budget to requirement ratio... you can go full on double throw me down racey and spend quite a bit... or go bare bones stock and spend a little. A little more info as far as what your trying to do with this build would dictate the demands on the cylinder heads, and where the best bang for your buck will be spent.
  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
The Bostick ®

Some people play hard to get, I play hard to want.

Six-Oh-Nine

  • Karma: +28/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #7 on: March 11, 2014, 04:54:31 PM »
I have done this before on a Cleveland, but it is similar on your heads.  The rocker stud pedestals need to be rethreaded to 7/16-14UNC and the height might need to be cut down to compensate for the height difference between the original non-adjustable rocker studs and guide plates and the new adjustable Mk4 style rocker studs and guide plates.


Stud boss height does not need to be modified, just the thread size.
  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
The Bostick ®

Some people play hard to get, I play hard to want.

beerjet

  • Karma: +81/-0
Re: Best mods on 088 heads
« Reply #8 on: March 14, 2014, 09:44:49 AM »
I know a guy... 8)

You can do and get quite a bit more than people give these heads credit for. In this day of being able to buy super rad big heads, a lot of folks just kinda dismiss what you can get away with on a gm casting. Granted, they lack on the exhaust side compared to aftermarket, but not enough to not consider them on a 500 inch big block. The stud conversion really depends on what you're going to do with the thing, what sort of rpm and spring pressures. Flat tappets and typically a hydraulic roller or small solid roller will be fine with the conversion studs in a typical river boat . Something that is going to see rpm and or run a decent sized solid roller with stout springs to match... then even machining to accept the 7/16-7/16 studs is really not a big deal... I do it all the time as using the seat and guide machine makes it a snap. Port work is gonna be something that you're going to want to do to get what you can afford out of these heads. Cheap, easy way to get some flow improvement and lighten your valve train and also broaden your selection of valves is to install 11/32 valves either by going with .342 id bronze guides or installing guide liners in the existing iron guides (depending on how "inexpensive" you wish to go) You're gonna need valves anyway, might as well as get something that's gonna kill two birds with one stone. Obviously, the best way to achieve the clearance and finish you want will be to hone to size, which we do on ALL guides. Depending on what fuel you plan on running, a good set of hardened exhaust seats if you plan on running unleaded. Open the intake up to 2.25 and stick with the 1.88 exhaust. You will want at a minimum a decent valve job and all you valve heights exactly the same (so all your geometry will actually all be the same), and chambers all the same (you'd be amazed at how far this stuff can be off , even done by "professionals")

Basically, it all really boils down to your budget to requirement ratio... you can go full on double throw me down racey and spend quite a bit... or go bare bones stock and spend a little. A little more info as far as what your trying to do with this build would dictate the demands on the cylinder heads, and where the best bang for your buck will be spent.
it's definitely gonna be a river boat.
10/11:1ish single carb, solid roller.
Unless I run across some aluminum cylinder heads I'm gonna have to piece these together...


-beerjet-

  • Like
    Dislike
    Love
    HaHa
    Angry
    Surprise
    Sad
    Party
i dont but im all for stuffin shit in her ass to make her go away :-*

 


Null

SMFPacks CMS 1.0.3 © 2026