SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: cakemoto on November 14, 2013, 04:56:03 PM
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what happens when your t-valve for the headers is wide open? does this happen..for some odd reason started the boat on the hose today and when hit the gas lots of water came out the exhaust.looked like to much to me.thanks for any help guys
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Check your t valve to make sure the ball and spring aren't covered in calcium and trash. If everything is clean you might need to change the spring out.
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what happens when your t-valve for the headers is wide open? does this happen..for some odd reason started the boat on the hose today and when hit the gas lots of water came out the exhaust.looked like to much to me.thanks for any help guys
Thats what it should do. I haven't ran water in my headers for a long time but it should be more that a mist.
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Turn hose down and then u should have steam only at least thats the way I run mine. Also if u are running a gate valve u should have this ajusted right as well. Mine is a turn and a half from closed. Also the hose from the pump should have a gauge on it mine reads 12 psi.
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thanks guys....boat run super cool all summer,now last trip out i got some moisture in the engine.trying to figure out why all summer no problems and now this.my shit runs from pump to a t,into the front of the block[both sides] then out the thermostat with 2 hoses. left one just exits dump at rear of boat.right one hits the bassett valve to headers.why does he have the valve exiting the engine controlling flow? should i just back off the header side?
jake...are you saying the bassett valve is always open or should be?thanks guys trying to get out one last trip here this weekend
when moving i have always just had steam come out...
think im going to take the bassett vale apart and see whats up
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ok...wtf.just took the valve apart and there is no spring or ball :mad: :banghead:
the fittings on the valve are rusted to shit with pices of metal inside the valve
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There should be two valve one on the pump and one on the dump. The one on the dump is to provide alittle back pressure so it pushes the ball and spring on the header t to give the headers some water. There's a diagram on the Bassett site and Jet boat performance website.
The valve on the pump is to adjust the flow to the motor which in turn adjust motor temp. And the one on the on dump like I mentioned earlies to to control the flow i the headers
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so i need a new or rebuilt t valve,another gate valve off pump.
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I have a t valve that I'm no longer using if you are interested. I went to through transoms so I have no use for it. Your best bet is to just clean that one up and get a new ball and spring from basset. I think they are 7 bucks a piece.
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I have also heard of some guys taking nitrous jets and milling the shank off or down or something then putting them in the water line fittings, doing that will allow you to just open the valve all the way while the jet does all the work. Not shure what the hole size is on the jets.
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They sell jets at cp performance just for that I have them in my water lines
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still need a little help from the experts...finally got to take the boat again(working every weekend) after i thought i was getting reversion.change cooling lines put new ball and spring in t.so go out yesterday(started with ball valves half open) drove around saguaro for about 20 min stop.keep in mind boat runs good,45 lbs oil at idle,60 running.never got the boat over 150 deg. while having a ice cold coors light look into the valve cover and see some milky ness on the cap..not really in the motor.I floated the rest of the day,started up went to dock.also ran fine on the way back.I pretty sure they is no oil in the bottom of engine 1.dipstick oil never moved 2.when i got home i pulled the passenger valve cover to find milk inside it,water too.I took a flash light looked in the head and all the inside was nothing milky...ok,i'm stumped. thinking about doing a compression test tomorrrow,maybe pull the intake manifold replace.....and re test. I would love to hear what you guys have to say.thanks in advance jake.
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also i did see the passenger side smoke a little more compared to the other side?
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Anyone??
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you might need to turn down the header valve even more. That's the only thing I can think of... Or maybe head gasket leak? But you said the thing still ran good and had good oil pressure..
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yep, just did the compression test all had about 125 except back too cylinders on each side were about 18 lbs more.I did drain some of the oil out the pan...no water in sight.pure oil came out....think i am gonna do the intake manny just for shits and giggles,turn down valve again,retest?
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I've been have milky oil problems since i bought my boat. Over winter i tore the motor down had george at clay smith take a quick look at the heads and block said he didnt suspect any cracks said most olds leak at the timing cover. Re assembled the motor time it in my driveway and forgot to close my header ball valve so was idling for 30sec with water through the headers but dipstick showed clean oil after. Took it
Out sunday and ran all day and only ran water through the headers for 30sec all day. Check dipstick on ramp leaving and looked good. Next day fired the boat up for 30seconds in my driveway and pulled the stick and have a swirl of white and clear oil. Also a littlllllle bit of frothy in the valve covers. Not quite sure if a gasket leaking again or maybe some reversion from timing it.
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If it is only milky on the inside of the valve covers, and the rest of the oil looks fine, it might just be some condensation.
I don't remember what exactly causes it.
When I took my boat out for the first time after rebuilding my Olds, I ended up with water in the oil. I had the ball valve at the jet open all the way (no other valve to control water flow).
Changed the oil and took the boat out again. This time, I closed the ball valve to half way. No more water in the oil.
Sorry I don't have any answers, but just my experience.
Maybe it will give someone an idea of how to help you out.
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I'll always get a little milky oil around my breathers and dip stick tube (doesn't seal very well). Got a lot worse after something happened to my #8 hole. Haven't torn it down yet to look but I lost about 15psi of compression and at about 4500 rpm oil starts pouring out of the breathers and dipstick from all the blow by. Makes a huge mess :( thinking about switching over to a bbc from my bbf perhaps. Either way I'm going to need to build a new motor soon.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
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still need a little help from the experts...finally got to take the boat again(working every weekend) after i thought i was getting reversion.
I think I missed it, based on what?
change cooling lines put new ball and spring in t.so go out yesterday(started with ball valves half open) drove around saguaro for about 20 min stop.
Where are these ball valves? How large is the opening of the dump line?
keep in mind boat runs good,45 lbs oil at idle,60 running.never got the boat over 150 deg. while having a ice cold coors light look into the valve cover and see some milky ness on the cap..not really in the motor.
150 degrees idling or running flat out?
I floated the rest of the day,started up went to dock.also ran fine on the way back.I pretty sure they is no oil in the bottom of engine 1.dipstick oil never moved 2.when i got home i pulled the passenger valve cover to find milk inside it,water too.I took a flash light looked in the head and all the inside was nothing milky...ok,i'm stumped. thinking about doing a compression test tomorrrow,maybe pull the intake manifold replace.....and re test. I would love to hear what you guys have to say.thanks in advance jake.
I do not think you ran the boar hard enough to boil the moisture (condensation) out of the crankcase... The oil really needs to exceed 220 degrees to keep it from sweating, especially in cooler weather. Just a WAG
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There should be two valve one on the pump and one on the dump. The one on the dump is to provide alittle back pressure so it pushes the ball and spring on the header t to give the headers some water. There's a diagram on the Bassett site and Jet boat performance website.
The valve on the pump is to adjust the flow to the motor which in turn adjust motor temp. And the one on the on dump like I mentioned earlies to to control the flow i the headers
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Lose the valve on the dump, absolutely NOT needed..... The pump can provide way more water than you can ever use.... ;)
thanks guys....boat run super cool all summer,now last trip out i got some moisture in the engine.trying to figure out why all summer no problems and now this.my shit runs from pump to a VALVEthen a t,into the front of the block[both sides] then out the thermostat with 2 hoses. left one just exits dump at rear of boat.right one hits the bassett valve to headers.why does he have the valve exiting the engine controlling flow? should i just back off the header side?
jake...are you saying the bassett valve is always open or should be?thanks guys trying to get out one last trip here this weekend
when moving i have always just had steam come out...
think im going to take the bassett vale apart and see whats up
The headers should be completely dry at idle, no mist, no steam, nothing. Once the engine reaches about 1,500 rpm the headers should just start to mist/steam. There should be absolutely NO valve between the t-stat housing and the dump fitting, this needs to be WFO to a dump fitting with about a 3/8" to 7/16" inside diameter. Anything else is incorrect. (IMHO)...
GT
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I'll always get a little milky oil around my breathers and dip stick tube (doesn't seal very well). Got a lot worse after something happened to my #8 hole. Haven't torn it down yet to look but I lost about 15psi of compression and at about 4500 rpm oil starts pouring out of the breathers and dipstick from all the blow by. Makes a huge mess :( thinking about switching over to a bbc from my bbf perhaps. Either way I'm going to need to build a new motor soon.
Life is uncertain. Don't sip.
Sounds like you had some rings take a bite out of the cylinder wall... The pistons get bigger when the cylinder does not... May be able to get by with a clean up hone and a piston or two. The piston to wall clearance needs to be a little greater than that of an automotive piece.
This is a WAG, but betting I am spot on. :sly:
GT
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yes gt...i have a valve on the pump and one on the straight dump side of the intake.2.running boat wfo and idling boat got 150. I was told by someone else tonight not to worry about it in the valve cover...just watch the dipstick.
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Theres an epic thread on here about ideas on how to solve ur issue.
Search water pressure
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This topic never dies. GT you should just copy and paste your answers instead of typing so much. New season I can't wait for the gate vs regulator threads to begin. Just messin with you guys I hope you get the info to solve your problems....happy boating!!!
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