SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: coors909 on December 20, 2015, 01:03:38 PM
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I have a tunnel ram that I'm going to be installing on my BBC from my past experience my HEI didn't fit. So will a MSD ready to run or MSD certified distributor work? Also what MSD wires work with these?
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I have a tunnel ram that I'm going to be installing on my BBC from my past experience my HEI didn't fit. So will a MSD ready to run or MSD certified distributor work? Also what MSD wires work with these?
Sent from somewhere in Cali
HEI won't fit,
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8489?seid=srese1&gclid=CODPovSs68kCFdBefgodTs4P0Q
And I like the msd 8.5 wires
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-31949?seid=srese1&gclid=CPjY66Gt68kCFcRffgod8AoABA
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Ok thank you I will check these out
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HEI won't fit,
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-8489?seid=srese1&gclid=CODPovSs68kCFdBefgodTs4P0Q
And I like the msd 8.5 wires
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-31949?seid=srese1&gclid=CPjY66Gt68kCFcRffgod8AoABA
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So I need a box with this distributer right? Will the marine MSD or non marine one work? Also does it need a crank trigger?
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So I need a box with this distributer right? Will the marine MSD or non marine one work? Also does it need a crank trigger?
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It does need a crank trigger unfortunately. Doesn't matter what box.
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It does need a crank trigger unfortunately. Doesn't matter what box.
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Ok cool. I just want to make sure if I buy it I buy the right stuff. I want to try and keep it all MSD if possible
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You can get the non trigger one MSD part number 84891
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You can get the non trigger one MSD part number 84891
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Which one would you think is the best to use on a boat?
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Which one would you think is the best to use on a boat?
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Well, honestly if you are worried about the water run the blue box. I've always ran the digital boxes and have been fine.
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Well, honestly if you are worried about the water run the blue box. I've always ran the digital boxes and have been fine.
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Sorry I was wondering which distributer you would run? The non crank trigger or crank trigger. I'm not familiar with crank triggers at all.
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I would run the non crank trigger one because it's an extra 300 bucks to get the trigger from MSD. Idk what motor is on but for a lake hot rod or stock application I still say you won't need it.
If it was a full blow race boat, then I would run the crank trigger.
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I would run the non crank trigger one because it's an extra 300 bucks to get the trigger from MSD. Idk what motor is on but for a lake hot rod or stock application I still say you won't need it.
If it was a full blow race boat, then I would run the crank trigger.
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Ok it's just a BBC with a cam, tunnel ram and big carb. I'm going to build it up next year but only roller rockers and some nice pistons and some other little things. Maybe like 500 hp or so. Trying to keep it reliable
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If you want to spend the extra money, by all means go with the trigger. But for now I would go with the non trigger one.
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If you want to spend the extra money, by all means go with the trigger. But for now I would go with the non trigger one.
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Are the triggers complicated to get working right?
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Sorry to keep asking questions I just really want to get the best setup. Will the crank trigger work with a 4 point motor mount set up? Will I be able to adjust it while it's in the boat?
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Are the triggers complicated to get working right?
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It's all good, no they are not complicated at all and super easy to dial in. Iam not too sure about it working with a 4 point mount though.
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You will be able to adjust it in the boat no problem.
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I've been running a Pertronix Flame-Thrower III ready to run distributor in my BBC for several years now without any problems. I'm running it with an MSD coil and Wires also with no problems (and I'm pretty sure the distributor doesn't know that the coil and wires aren't the same brand ;) ).
The Flame-Thrower III has a built in rev limiter, multiple sparks, billet housing (yada, yada, yada)...
Just another choice if you're looking for options.
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It's all good, no they are not complicated at all and super easy to dial in. Iam not too sure about it working with a 4 point mount though.
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Sweet thank you. I just need to know now if it will work with a 4 pint mount before I buy it. What style mount do use on your boat?
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Little dirty but you get the idea.
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Little dirty but you get the idea.
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Looks nicer than mine! I think it might work. I will have to look at it when I get home.
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Little dirty but you get the idea.
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Do I have to buy a coil also?
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Mite as well. Lol a regular flamethrower will do the job too.
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Mite as well. Lol a regular flamethrower will do the job too.
Sent from McIntyre Park
Ok one last question
Will these parts all work with each
http://www.msdignition.com/Products/Coils/Race/8222_-_High_Vibration_Blaster_Coil.aspx
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-84891?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhuSzBRDBoZfG56bK9-YBEiQARiPcZdN-5xxOkRFTE2dSwd7SXlFX7dILcRkuFG4nIMI8WNoaAoP-8P8HAQ
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-6560?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhuSzBRDBoZfG56bK9-YBEiQARiPcZVSF0Zfnv8QCFkC9hcvYxc_MtBymyezfMPCHaqP9JUwaAof_8P8HAQ
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-31949?seid=srese1&gclid=CPjY66Gt68kCFcRffgod8AoABA
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Yup 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🚤💦🍻
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Everything there would make a nice set up except for the Toyota ignition wires.
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Everything there would make a nice set up except for the Toyota ignition wires.
Lol fair enough I will make sure I get the right wires.
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Yup 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻🚤💦🍻
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Thank you
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Everything there would make a nice set up except for the Toyota ignition wires.
Are these better?
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-31199
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Or these I think might be better
http://m.summitracing.com/parts/msd-32169?seid=srese1&gclid=Cj0KEQiAhuSzBRDBoZfG56bK9-YBEiQARiPcZVwjYWDoygwfIS_vvfocmiqM2_HuqYezMQK49gkz1UEaAiw48P8HAQ
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I like the MSD universal sets because I prefer to taylor my wires to fit. On the boat I used the 90 degree boots at the spark plugs and ran the wires under the header to the rear and up and didn't require the heat socks. On my daughters truck I used the straight boots and had to use 4 socks where the boot rested on the tubes.
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I like the MSD universal sets because I prefer to taylor my wires to fit. On the boat I used the 90 degree boots at the spark plugs and ran the wires under the header to the rear and up and didn't require the heat socks. On my daughters truck I used the straight boots and had to use 4 socks where the boot rested on the tubes.
Ok good to know thank you. I think I will go with 90 degree one. I'll post everything after I buy it.
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I like the MSD universal sets because I prefer to taylor my wires to fit. On the boat I used the 90 degree boots at the spark plugs and ran the wires under the header to the rear and up and didn't require the heat socks. On my daughters truck I used the straight boots and had to use 4 socks where the boot rested on the tubes.
This is often referred to as "Corvette style" just for reference.
Do you remember the Jacobs Ignition wires with the ceramic ends?
Super trick.
GT
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This is often referred to as "Corvette style" just for reference.
Do you remember the Jacobs Ignition wires with the ceramic ends?
Super trick.
GT
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What are Jacob wires?
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What are Jacob wires?
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They're not available anymore, but they were quality pieces.
I have a Jacobs ignition system on my motor home.
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Sorry the thread Jack but what is the advantage of a crank trigger over a standard msd billet dizzy?
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Sorry the thread Jack but what is the advantage of a crank trigger over a standard msd billet dizzy?
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Think of it this way.
The conventional distributor is driven from the camshaft which is driven by a chain and sprockets, belt and pulleys or gears, and then ultimately to another worm gear. The opportunity for inaccuracies are pretty strong.
The crank trigger is signaled right off the crank. No potential for slop and way fewer moving parts. Don't have to worry about distorting components either (cam twist etc.)
An even larger advantage is that you can literally see the timing changes in increments of a half of a degree, even less if you really want to split hairs.
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Think of it this way.
The conventional distributor is driven from the camshaft which is driven by a chain and sprockets, belt and pulleys or gears, and then ultimately to another worm gear. The opportunity for inaccuracies are pretty strong.
The crank trigger is signaled right off the crank. No potential for slop and way fewer moving parts.
An even larger advantage is that you can literally see the timing changes in increments of a half of a degree, even less if you really want to split hairs.
Oh, and they look sik as phuk.
8)
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Do you remember the Jacobs Ignition wires with the ceramic ends?
Super trick.
GT
I sold many sets back in the 90's.
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Think of it this way.
The conventional distributor is driven from the camshaft which is driven by a chain and sprockets, belt and pulleys or gears, and then ultimately to another worm gear. The opportunity for inaccuracies are pretty strong.
The crank trigger is signaled right off the crank. No potential for slop and way fewer moving parts. Don't have to worry about distorting components either (cam twist etc.)
An even larger advantage is that you can literally see the timing changes in increments of a half of a degree, even less if you really want to split hairs.
That's really good to know. How about installing them and getting the engine to run right?
Sent from somewhere in Cali
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Think of it this way.
The conventional distributor is driven from the camshaft which is driven by a chain and sprockets, belt and pulleys or gears, and then ultimately to another worm gear. The opportunity for inaccuracies are pretty strong.
The crank trigger is signaled right off the crank. No potential for slop and way fewer moving parts. Don't have to worry about distorting components either (cam twist etc.)
An even larger advantage is that you can literally see the timing changes in increments of a half of a degree, even less if you really want to split hairs.
Ok makes sense, so with that setup do you lose mechanical advance and just run locked out timing?
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Ok makes sense, so with that setup do you lose mechanical advance and just run locked out timing?
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An ignition controller can be used to control the timing. You can get stupid exotic with ignition systems these days.
You can do it with a manual dash mounted control, or with an elaborate ecu of sorts.
Honestly all you would need is a start retard module in most cases.
GT