SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: gqchris on June 23, 2010, 04:24:01 PM
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Hey Guys,
If I leave my boat for longer than a few weeks at the river, when I get back to use it, it take a good 3-4min of cranking to get fuel back into my carb. Its only started doing this since it warmed up for summer. So my question is, can I hook up an electrical fuel pump on a dash switch to "help" my mechanical pump on start up times to pressurize the system? Its a 454 Hardin Stock Motor in my 21' Open Bow. Should I keep the pump to always on, or just use it to start it? So I would plumb it from my T-Valve, to my new electrical pump, to my mechanical, and out to my carb. Any ideas or suggestions on this? Thanks!
Chris
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Hey Guys,
If I leave my boat for longer than a few weeks at the river, when I get back to use it, it take a good 3-4min of cranking to get fuel back into my carb. Its only started doing this since it warmed up for summer. So my question is, can I hook up an electrical fuel pump on a dash switch to "help" my mechanical pump on start up times to pressurize the system? Its a 454 Hardin Stock Motor in my 21' Open Bow. Should I keep the pump to always on, or just use it to start it? So I would plumb it from my T-Valve, to my new electrical pump, to my mechanical, and out to my carb. Any ideas or suggestions on this? Thanks!
Chris
No bueno on the electric puntala....
IMHO, I would replace the existing mechanical first, it sounds like the valving is worn in the fuel pump and allowing the fuel to "run back" out of the engine system.
To "try and see" if this is actually the problem, pick up an anti siphon valve and install it on the outlet of the pump. This should keep the fuel from draining back and right at the needle and seat.
Check the fourth one down...
http://www.moellermarine.com/aftermarket/fuel_systems/valves/
It is also possible that you have an air leak somewhere in the fuel lines between the tank and the inlet of the pump, allowing the fuel to drain back also...
Wish I could be more help..
BTW, if you do install the electric deal, get a three prong oil pressure switch and run it off that....
GT
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Thanks GT, I will give that valve a try and see if it doesnt help the issue, and then I will know I need a new manual pump. The boat runs great once started and easy to start all weekend. Just is a pain once she has been sitting out there in the heat and the first start of the weekend.
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GT, are the outlets of fuel pumps normally 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT?
Chris
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GT, are the outlets of fuel pumps normally 1/4" NPT or 3/8" NPT?
Chris
Yes...... :D
They make both 3/8"fmpt and 1/4"fmpt pumps...... I would check first, or just buy one of each. :-\
GT
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1/4 NPT usually takes a 3/8 fuel line..
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I myself use both, the electric keeps the prime up, no start troubles.
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I myself use both, the electric keeps the prime up, no start troubles.
Did you plumb it like I was thinking in my original post SS? Also do you keep it on all the time?
Chris
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I have it as close to the tank before the fuel pump. It is a Carter 112 GPH pump that runs when the ign is turned on. I use the Marine version at Summit $ 69.00, been runing the pump for the last5 years no problem.
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I have it as close to the tank before the fuel pump. It is a Carter 112 GPH pump that runs when the ign is turned on. I use the Marine version at Summit $ 69.00, been runing the pump for the last5 years no problem.
SS
Please take this as constructive.
You should run a three terminal oil pressure safety switch...Not for the protection of the engine, but in case the engine dies and there is a fire, it will shut down the fuel pump to stop feeding the potential inferno..
Been doing this for a stupid long time and this IMHO is a requirement...
link http://www.holley.com/12-810.asp
I normally run terminal "N" to a momentary "on" dash mounted switch for priming...
Be safe brother.. ;)
GT
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Your right I do have that switch on mine.