SoCal Jet Boats
Tech Talk => Engine Mechanical / Electrical => Topic started by: sandeggo on June 05, 2010, 10:15:52 AM
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I'm not sure what cam is in my smallblock, it's definitle not stock. With that being said would it be better to adjust the valves while the motor is running?
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That all depends. Is it a solid lifter cam or hydraulic?
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Hydraulic non roller
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Running ;)
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Hydraulic non roller
Running ;)
Yep, tighten them until they quit clacking, then go 1/2 turn more. I have an old valve cover that I cut the top out of to use when I do hyd. valves, keeps the oil from getting everywhere.
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Im going thru that right now and wished i would have kept my cut out valve covers :banghead:
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Planning to do the VC window too
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Non Running ! :thumbup:
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Non Running ! :thumbup:
you have been working on too many Ferds :screwy:
the initial set up on a stand is fine but even GM recommends adjusting while running so the lifters wont bleed out ;D
Now go drive your chevy and get your head right man O0
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Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60
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you have been working on too many Ferds :screwy:
the initial set up on a stand is fine but even GM recommends adjusting while running so the lifters wont bleed out ;D
Now go drive your chevy and get your head right man O0
sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you.. ;D
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sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you.. ;D
Its ok, i still love you :-*
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sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you.. ;D
please explain why your way is better ;)
i have done it both ways and had the same success, just one not as messy as the other.
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Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60
I'm not sure a pcv or no pcv is going to affect your oil pressure, but I could be wrong. Anyone care to pipe in here?
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I'm not sure a pcv or no pcv is going to affect your oil pressure, but I could be wrong. Anyone care to pipe in here?
oil pressure is not related to crank case pressure, unless, there is so much windage that the oil is being kept away from the pick up tube, but then you would see an erratic gage reading and not steady pressure. :-\
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Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60
Did you happen to change your oil prior to the higher psi ?
Thats happened to me before, went from one weight oil to another and got higher psi readings ???
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Hmmm I'm using the same oil as last season, only thing I changed motorwise was the tunnelram. I know too low of oil pressure is a bad thing, is the a "too high"
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please explain why your way is better ;)
i have done it both ways and had the same success, just one not as messy as the other.
I think thats the only diff, either way it need to be running or at op temp..
Unless im missing something
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Hmmm I'm using the same oil as last season, only thing I changed motorwise was the tunnelram. I know too low of oil pressure is a bad thing, is the a "too high"
Check gauge wiring / ground and sending unit ?
I went from 60 to 80psi with the oil change
and it idled at 60psi at op temp
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Its ok, i still love you :-*
Luv you too 2Sav... I respect your opinion and everyone elses too, and I never said that adjusting the valves with the engine running is bad...I just have a method that I have been using for over 30yrs and has never failed me, and Ralph this method avoids the mess/hazzard......(Especially in boats where you dont need the mess)
As a builder I cannot build an engine and expect the customer(if he is clueless) to attempt to adjust his own valves,My method entails no re-adjustments, and ready to fire up when the customer receives the unit.
Yo 2SAV!.....Ferd's have adjustable v/trains too :-* :-*
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Check gauge wiring / ground and sending unit ?
I went from 60 to 80psi with the oil change
and it idled at 60psi at op temp
mech gauge mines idling right around 70, but I'm also not getting the oil pressure drop like last season either when I run it out
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I just have a method that I have been using for over 30yrs and has never failed me, and Ralph this method avoids the mess/hazzard......(Especially in boats where you dont need the mess)
As a builder I cannot build an engine and expect the customer(if he is clueless) to attempt to adjust his own valves,My method entails no re-adjustments, and ready to fire up when the customer receives the unit.
Dave, ever thought of doing a write up on your method for the how to section?
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Dave, ever thought of doing a write up on your method for the how to section?
great idea :thumbup:
when i do the non-running i spin the push rod with my finger until i feel resistance then 1/2 turn.
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Hahaha...didnt know there was a" How To" section :sly:...is it a top secret section 8)
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Yo 2SAV!.....Ferd's have adjustable v/trains too :-* :-*
I knew that, U knew that Now EVERYBODY knows that :sly:
By the way i set mine up on the stand with a priming tool and after running it for a bid i started to hear some "chattering" which i thought were valve's
turns out it was a tick sound and we all know what that is.
Yep header gasket :mad:
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great idea :thumbup:
when i do the non-running i spin the push rod with my finger until i feel resistance then 1/2 turn.
X2 :thumbup:
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I knew that, U knew that Now EVERYBODY knows that :sly:
By the way i set mine up on the stand with a priming tool and after running it for a bid i started to hear some "chattering" which i thought were valve's
turns out it was a tick sound and we all know what that is.
Yep header gasket :mad:
Easy fix :thumbup:
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you guys dog a pro engine builder like the docter shame on you :D
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you guys dog a pro engine builder like the docter shame on you :D
you should see how i treat his employee (aka nancy boy) >:D
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Ralph you not really a mean guy lol ;D :beer:
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DELETE
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Sniff sniff :sly:
Something smells funny ???
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Hd is right old school but vacume is more stable at a half turn if you working with a close to stock cam just my 02 ;D
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Sniff sniff :sly:
Something smells funny ???
;)
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. Trust me, it works ask Brandon (454Nordic)
isn't his motor blown up :D
. All that spinning pushrods n shit will take you all night.
mine still going 5 seasons :-*
just funnin with ya terry :thumbup: always more than one way to skin a cat
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Oh hell yea, just quickest and easiest for me.
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you guys dog a pro engine builder like the docter shame on you :D
Thanks Howard.....Ya...no respect :'(
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you should see how i treat his employee (aka nancy boy) >:D
Ralph..."Nancy Boy "....deserves what he gets...you dont see him commenting do you :P
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Ok here's how ya do it son. Tighten down the nuts till you see four threads showing, start the motor. Remove one valve cover. Losen one valve at a time until you hear it then tighten slowly just till the ticking stops, go to the next one. Work quickly. The only time the oil gets out of hand is when the valve is making noise, shut off motor. After that whole side is done go back and give each one a 1/4 turn. Install the valve cover and do the other side. You should be able to do this in about 10 minutes. Trust me, it works ask Brandon (454Nordic) I just did his just like that right in front of him. Actualy anybodies boat that has been here with Hyd lifters gets adjusted just like that. All that spinning pushrods n shit will take you all night.
OMG :sly:...little bit more to it than that,..pulled studs,and so much more,"Spinning pushrods /sht"....ouch :screwy:
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OMG :sly:...little bit more to it than that,..pulled studs,and so much more,"Spinning pushrods /sht"....ouch :screwy:
so enlighten all us back yard hacks ???
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so enlighten all us back yard hacks ???
who ya calling a hack I prefer back yard butcher :o ;D
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so enlighten all us back yard hacks ???
Ralph... "back yard hacks"..??? who said that :-*
I so know better, I've worked w/you :thumbup:
Want my method...................$50.00 std. SCJB price ;)
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Ralph..."Nancy Boy "....deserves what he gets...you dont see him commenting do you :P
Ya well didnt see this thread :sly: and this nancy boy dont give a flying crap. Just adjust the fricking things right! Adjusting while running, in my opinion, is a very messy and potentionaly (sp) not a good thing. Granted if ya have the cut out VC's does make it better ;)
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Ya well didnt see this thread :sly: and this nancy boy dont give a flying crap. Just adjust the fricking things right! Adjusting while running, in my opinion, is a very messy and potentionaly (sp) not a good thing. Granted if ya have the cut out VC's does make it better ;)
You are correct mark....if you have the cut out v/covers, and you STILL have 3' feet of oil skirting out , it makes a mess...shit You have been building engines w/me for 3 decades....just that you went gay...sorry , ment Ferd.... :-*
"Just adjust the fkn thing right".. ;D
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OMG :sly:...little bit more to it than that,..pulled studs,and so much more,"Spinning pushrods /sht"....ouch :screwy:
Been doin it for fourty five years
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;)
That wasn't meant for you.
I agree with what you said :thumbup:
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go online to centuryperformance.com/adjusting-valve-lash-spg-14=great info
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I just have a method that I have been using for over 30yrs and has never failed me, and Ralph this method avoids the mess/hazzard......(Especially in boats where you dont need the mess)
Want my method...................$50.00 std. SCJB price ;)
Dave,
You have bashed every other mentioned method, but refuse to share your own.
This is not how we do things around here. Either share your information or keep your negative opinions to yourself.
...and charging for your knowlege? Not ok in my book. Its knowledge that drives this site. Do you see a cover charge at the door?
Lets just play nice.
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this got a little out of hand. im gonna do it running, i have some oil in the bilge from an oil leak anyways.
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in some cases (depending on the cam) mark you vibration dampner in 4 distinct 90* increments , hand crank the engine in rotation direction to TDC for each cylinder by firing order and adjust accordingly or more complicated .... slowly hand crank and observe the exaust valve/rocker barely starts to open , then adjust the cooresponding intake, continue cranking till intake/rocker cycles 3/4 thru and adjust the cooresponnding exaust I know it sounds confusing call or PM if Josh or I can help Tom
on SBC hydraulics we tighten the adjuster 1/4 to 3/4 turn past lifter plunger deflection (about .020 to .040) ,twist the pushrod with a very light feel (like you would a nipple ;)) as you tighten the adjuster nut, after you sense zero lash, then "preload" accordingly
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isn't his motor blown up :D
Yea, it made so much more power it blew the lower end out ;)