Valve adjustment

« **on:** June 05, 2010, 10:15:52 AM »

I'm not sure what cam is in my smallblock, it's definitle not stock. With that being said would it be better to adjust the valves while the motor is running?

« **Reply #1 on:** June 05, 2010, 10:54:44 AM »

That all depends. Is it a solid lifter cam or hydraulic?

« **Reply #2 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:05:22 AM »

Hydraulic non roller

« **Reply #3 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:07:10 AM »

Running

« **Reply #4 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:08:37 AM »

Quote from: sandeggo on June 05, 2010, 11:05:22 AM

Hydraulic non roller

Quote from: 2savage4you on June 05, 2010, 11:07:10 AM

Running

Yep, tighten them until they quit clacking, then go 1/2 turn more. I have an old valve cover that I cut the top out of to use when I do hyd. valves, keeps the oil from getting everywhere.

« **Reply #5 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:13:58 AM »

Im going thru that right now and wished i would have kept my cut out valve covers

« **Reply #6 on:** June 05, 2010, 11:15:08 AM »

Planning to do the VC window too

« **Reply #7 on:** June 05, 2010, 12:50:22 PM »

Non Running !

« **Reply #8 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:24:03 PM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on June 05, 2010, 12:50:22 PM

Non Running !

you have been working on too many Ferds

the initial set up on a stand is fine but even GM recommends adjusting while running so the lifters wont bleed out

Now go drive your chevy and get your head right man

« **Reply #9 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:32:56 PM »

Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60

« **Reply #10 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:41:54 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on June 05, 2010, 01:24:03 PM

you have been working on too many Ferds

the initial set up on a stand is fine but even GM recommends adjusting while running so the lifters wont bleed out

Now go drive your chevy and get your head right man

sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you..

« **Reply #11 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:46:32 PM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on June 05, 2010, 01:41:54 PM

sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you..

Its ok, i still love you

« **Reply #12 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:52:57 PM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on June 05, 2010, 01:41:54 PM

sorry 2SAV...I totally disagree with you..

please explain why your way is better

i have done it both ways and had the same success, just one not as messy as the other.

« **Reply #13 on:** June 05, 2010, 01:55:15 PM »

Quote from: sandeggo on June 05, 2010, 01:32:56 PM

Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60

I'm not sure a pcv or no pcv is going to affect your oil pressure, but I could be wrong. Anyone care to pipe in here?

« **Reply #14 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:01:56 PM »

Quote from: Luckie Stiff on June 05, 2010, 01:55:15 PM

I'm not sure a pcv or no pcv is going to affect your oil pressure, but I could be wrong. Anyone care to pipe in here?

oil pressure is not related to crank case pressure, unless, there is so much windage that the oil is being kept away from the pick up tube, but then you would see an erratic gage reading and not steady pressure. $:-\$

« **Reply #15 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:06:36 PM »

Quote from: sandeggo on June 05, 2010, 01:32:56 PM

Since this thread is gettin action, I ran my tunnelram without the pcv and just used another breather, coincidently I was seeing pressures up to 80 psi. No wonder I had an oil leak, what are thoughts on that? Prior to, my psi never went above 60

Did you happen to change your oil prior to the higher psi ?

Thats happened to me before, went from one weight oil to another and got higher psi readings

« **Reply #16 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:07:46 PM »

Hmmm I'm using the same oil as last season, only thing I changed motorwise was the tunnelram. I know too low of oil pressure is a bad thing, is the a "too high"

« **Reply #17 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:08:15 PM »

Quote from: Ralph Brunt on June 05, 2010, 01:52:57 PM

please explain why your way is better

i have done it both ways and had the same success, just one not as messy as the other.

I think thats the only diff, either way it need to be running or at op temp..

Unless im missing something

« **Reply #18 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:11:17 PM »

Quote from: sandeggo on June 05, 2010, 02:07:46 PM

Hmmm I'm using the same oil as last season, only thing I changed motorwise was the tunnelram. I know too low of oil pressure is a bad thing, is the a "too high"

Check gauge wiring / ground and sending unit ?

I went from 60 to 80psi with the oil change

and it idled at 60psi at op temp

« **Reply #19 on:** June 05, 2010, 02:38:49 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on June 05, 2010, 01:46:32 PM

Its ok, i still love you

Luv you too 2Sav... I respect your opinion and everyone elses too, and I never said that adjusting the valves with the engine running is bad...I just have a method that I have been using for over 30yrs and has never failed me, and Ralph this method avoids the mess/hazzard......(Especially in boats where you dont need the mess)

As a builder I cannot build an engine and expect the customer(if he is clueless) to attempt to adjust his own valves,My method entails no re-adjustments, and ready to fire up when the customer receives the unit.

Yo 2SAV!.....Ferd's have adjustable v/trains too

« **Reply #20 on:** June 05, 2010, 03:00:07 PM »

Quote from: 2savage4you on June 05, 2010, 02:11:17 PM

Check gauge wiring / ground and sending unit ?

I went from 60 to 80psi with the oil change

and it idled at 60psi at op temp

mech gauge mines idling right around 70, but I'm also not getting the oil pressure drop like last season either when I run it out

« **Reply #21 on:** June 05, 2010, 03:14:34 PM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on June 05, 2010, 02:38:49 PM

I just have a method that I have been using for over 30yrs and has never failed me, and Ralph this method avoids the mess/hazzard......(Especially in boats where you dont need the mess)

As a builder I cannot build an engine and expect the customer(if he is clueless) to attempt to adjust his own valves,My method entails no re-adjustments, and ready to fire up when the customer receives the unit.

Dave, ever thought of doing a write up on your method for the how to section?

« **Reply #22 on:** June 05, 2010, 03:21:27 PM »

Quote from: OC2Vegas on June 05, 2010, 03:14:34 PM

Dave, ever thought of doing a write up on your method for the how to section?

great idea

when i do the non-running i spin the push rod with my finger until i feel resistance then 1/2 turn.

« **Reply #23 on:** June 05, 2010, 03:38:34 PM »

Hahaha...didnt know there was a" How To" section

...is it a top secret section

« **Reply #24 on:** June 05, 2010, 03:49:59 PM »

Quote from: enginedoctor on June 05, 2010, 02:38:49 PM

Yo 2SAV!.....Ferd's have adjustable v/trains too

I knew that, U knew that Now EVERYBODY knows that

By the way i set mine up on the stand with a priming tool and after running it for a bid i started to hear some "chattering" which i thought were valve's

turns out it was a tick sound and we all know what that is.

Yep header gasket